omgwtfToph
Smash Master
no otto did lol I'm in cali
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Y -> Down+Bdo any of you foxes go about shining out of your dash dance (ie, you have to jc shine the first shine, and wavedash out of it)?
how do you go about doing it? i haven't figured out how i want my inputs to go, and what would be comfortable, or if such a thing is often done.
Smartass. -___-Y -> Down+B
Try the slide method.do any of you foxes go about shining out of your dash dance (ie, you have to jc shine the first shine, and wavedash out of it)?
how do you go about doing it? i haven't figured out how i want my inputs to go, and what would be comfortable, or if such a thing is often done.
1. Step: Train Double-shines/ Multi-shinesdo any of you foxes go about shining out of your dash dance (ie, you have to jc shine the first shine, and wavedash out of it)?
how do you go about doing it? i haven't figured out how i want my inputs to go, and what would be comfortable, or if such a thing is often done.
You can't react to that.Focus on the jc shine and then reactively wavedash either to the ground if you missed the timing or away.
You would only have 3 frames to react to if your shine is grounded or not. A couple extra if you hit the opponent and undergo hitlag. You can't react to it.Most certainly you can react to the outcome of your jc shine input - just wait, distinguish between beeing in midair or on ground --> act accordingly. At least that´s how I used to train jc shines out of dashes.
Lol, Falco player sure you´re slow
(damn it why ain´t there a trollface in here )
The window to jump out of your shine is infinite (you have to keep B pressed past a certain point though). But if you're just going to derp around in shine until you can react, you'll sink to the ground even if you shined 3-4 frames too late. You also won't get any followups because you wasted so much time sitting in shine.: How did you do that? I demand you to tell me.
The window to jump out of your shine is somewhat bigger than 3 frames. Hence, you are able to jump-cancel your shines whenever you god damn please (not really at any time, but for a longer time period) and therefor you are able to wait until you realised whether you are in midair or not.
I´ve never stated being able to jump-cancel them asap on reaction. Fair enough?
ThxThe window to jump out of your shine is infinite (you have to keep B pressed past a certain point though). But if you're just going to derp around in shine until you can react, you'll sink to the groundeven if you shined 3-4 frames too late. You also won't get any followups because you wasted so much time sitting in shine.
Yeah, I know that. I guess this was a missunderstanding. I just propounded doing so to train jc waveshines.
The sequence(s) would be: dash --> jc shine --> wait until you realise what happend --> either waveland into the ground or wavedash away.
This helped me a lot learning dash jc waveshining faster and made me feel much more comfortable with the down b timing whenever I jc shine anything.
Also, just type "umad" inside two colons.
Movement by itself isn't gonna win you a game. It's just a vehicle to help you get there.I watched Mango's stuff. His movement is good on platforms, but I really don't think that's the reason he won. His reads are just unmatched.
You should trigger trick your controller and that won't happen. It might mess you up if you L-cancel with that trigger though, and you won't be able to lightshield with it.I explained above that my controller kept buffering shields after wave shines so I kinda of worked around that knowing it would happen.
ive always hated those trigger mods lol. you should replace the rubber pad in the shoulder button thats doing it. my controllers broken like that a few times in the past. the central part of the rubber pad rips and eventually breaks off, causing it to remain on the button sensor sometimes after you press it. your trigger will prob click harder but you get over it quickYou should trigger trick your controller and that won't happen. It might mess you up if you L-cancel with that trigger though, and you won't be able to lightshield with it.
Yeah, I had one of my trigger rubbers break before, but I also had a trigger that was just sticky on the part that slides back and forth. I constantly had to take it apart during tournaments to blow air into it to get out whatever debris was tripping it up.ive always hated those trigger mods lol. you should replace the rubber pad in the shoulder button thats doing it. my controllers broken like that a few times in the past. the central part of the rubber pad rips and eventually breaks off, causing it to remain on the button sensor sometimes after you press it. your trigger will prob click harder but you get over it quick
Try throwing it even harder, or if that doesnt work throw it even harderfrom time to time, my L will not light shield, this is a tit *** problem since i l cancel without going all the way down so i can do that or light shield
wtf do you do, i usually throw my controller and hope it works when i pick it up
i have had similar cases just like this
i wanted to play 2person battletoads but my wires on my other controller were bad so i had to throw my controller until it worked
but as ive tried countless times before a set, i am unable to cure my controller of this john which is legitimate cuz now i cant l cancel
wtf do i do
What part did you swap out? It's probably dirt under the little peg that slides.Is there anything else that would be causing my lightsheild to buffer?
Ive swapped out my R button like 3 times now and the problem still persists.
I dont like the trigger trick because i realized a lightsheild alot.
Helpppppp
What part did you swap out? It's probably dirt under the little peg that slides.
If you take it apart and try to slide the peg with your finger, you should be able to tell if it's catching a bit more than the other trigger. If it's not that, it is either the spring or the actual gray plastic part (which I doubt since you'd be able to see the dirt or w/e gunking it up).Would that being doing it? i didnt see any dirt or anything on it. Ive completely put in 3 new R buttons. (every piece) and but on completely new backs. (I only L cancel with L so i dont really need a steller L button.)