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Guide: How to have a perfect controller forever

CluelessBTD

Smash Ace
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
987
Location
Pasadena, Tx
First of all, this IS NOT a controller mod, just a repair. It only works on the newest model GC controllers (i.e. the white controllers). These controls are made of different friction resistant materials and the important parts are screwed on for easy maintenance rather than soldered on permanently like the other controls.

Problem
Brand new controllers have a control stick that is tight and had a quick spring so you can perform pivot jabs and ftilts with ease. Not only that, but aerial maneuvers are easier to space due to the control sensitivity. Over time the stick starts to get kinda wobbly and doesn't want to spring right back to the dead center anymore. Don't buy a new control, you can fix it!

Cause
Under your control stick is a box which houses tiny plastic rails to sense the position of the stick. In the old controls, the stick starts to get sawed into like an axe to a tree, putting a gap between it and the rails (in addition to the next cause). However, in the white ones the problem is caused by a spring mechanism underneath the stick. The spring pushes against the bottom of the stick to keep it centered. They fit together like a loose ball socket. When it wears out, a tiny gap forms between the stick and this socket, reducing the springiness (since the spring has less contact with the stick).



Solution
Don't be intimidated, it's not hard.
1. Open up your controller using a triwing screwdriver. I ordered mine on ebay for a dollar. You can also use a small flathead if you have the patience and maybe some pliers to grip it.

2. Slide the control stick off. Then, there is a black plastic thing that holds the rumble motor. Slide the motor out and then carefully pop this plastic thing off.

3. You will see 2 tiny screw heads on the right side. Use a small phillips to get these off.

4. Flip your controller over now so that you can remove the control stick box. To do so, I gently slid my thumbnail between the black connectors and the box. They should click off pretty easy. Don't bend them too much, they might break off!

5. Now take the box and look at the bottom. You can open it by prying the bottom off with a small flathead screwdriver. It should pop right out easy.

6. You're in! Familiarize yourself with the way it's organized inside. We now how to somehow fill the gap in that's causing it to be loose. You will have to put something thin in between the ball of the control stick and the socket. I did so by cutting an octagonal shape out of slightly flexible plastic (The plastic package from a new pack of batteries). If the plastic you choose is too thick, it will cause your control stick to be so tight that it won't spring back at all.

7. Fit the plastic in the middle of the socket and then pop the box back together. It only slides on one way so just rotate it till it fits. You can test the stick, it won't be wobbly and should spring back nicely. Unless you didn't do it right...try again. Put the box back onto the circuit board and pop the two sensors back into place. Keep in mind that when you screw the box back it will put a bit more pressure on the stick and it'll get just a bit tighter. I always grease the moving parts with silicone bulb grease (AutoZone)

8. Test your stick at this point. This is what it will feel like when you are playing. If you don't like it, you can find some thinner plastic to fill the gap or just undo the process. Put the controller back together.

Tada!
There you go! Now, you MUST break the controller in before playing in tournament. The plastic that filled the gap will begin to take the shape of the socket as you use it for 15 to 30 minutes. Until then, it may be just a bit too tight and won't spring back perfectly, but is still good.


I could put pictures up but I don't feel like taking my controller apart again and potentially messing up the masterpiece that I have created. *kills self*

Although this isn't exactly about melee, I believe it's something all melee players should know so I chose this forum to post it.
 

Zodiac

Smash Master
Joined
Aug 10, 2005
Messages
3,557
This sounds awesome, Im going to order a white controller XD
 

Signia

Smash Lord
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
1,157
This sounds like the pringles-lid-cut-in-a-donut-shape mod used to make the Xbox360 D-pad useable.
 

AlcyoNite

Smash Champion
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
2,332
Location
**** Triangle, NC
*subscribed*

Thanks for this.

anyone who tries this out should post success stories. a way to make the thread better? pictures!

but no one asked me lol

seriously though, thanks for the tips
 

BEES

Smash Lord
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
1,051
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
ordered a pair of the new white controllers yesterday

I'm pretty excited. This will be the first time I've used an actual working gamecube controller in like... 2 years.
 

Spife

Smash Master
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
3,016
Location
Neriak
uhh can we get real pics with those step-by-step instructions? Like the ones on srk?
 

CluelessBTD

Smash Ace
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
987
Location
Pasadena, Tx
I guess I can take it apart again to take photos...I'm just kinda busy and my gf does not approve of my nerd habits anyway. I have to do s*** like this in secrecy, haha.
 

JPOBS

Smash Hero
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
5,821
Location
Mos Eisley
^^ LMFAO

good thread though

so wait, this problem doesnt happen on the older model purple/silver/etc controllers you say?

interesting.
 

Agenie04991

Smash Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
46
so wait, this problem doesnt happen on the older model purple/silver/etc controllers you say?

interesting.
Oh, I can guarantee the problem happens on old controllers, you just can't fix it because the control stick box is welded to the controller. My ex-favorite controller got so bad that I can't even crouch holding straight down because it's so wobbly. Sad that it can't be fixed though...
 

Magus420

Smash Master
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
4,541
Location
Close to Trenton, NJ Posts: 4,071
Not all old controllers have the welded ones. A black controller I got when the gamecube first launched in the US that I ended up using as the base for my smash controller for over 6 years had the same screw in type design/box that the white ones (that I've seen) currently use. All of the other old controllers I have are the other design though.

You can still remove the welded ones with brute force if you really want to, and don't mind the risk of breaking it in the process (which is much lower if you've done it before). If you happen to have like 4 soldering irons or something to loosen all 4 of the points simultaneously I suppose you could try that method too, lol.

The pair of little nubs that fit into the board on the underside of the box are in different spots between the 2 models though, so if you want to swap a box between models you need to make holes for them on the board to sit into so the box lays flat and can snap into the sensors properly. Unless you mangled the box while removing it, the sensors alone can do an adequate job of securing it (whether it be screw or welded type).
 

The Good Doctor

Smash Champion
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
2,360
Location
Midwest<3
Not all old controllers have the welded ones. A black controller I got when the gamecube first launched in the US that I ended up using as the base for my smash controller for over 6 years had the same screw in type design/box that the white ones (that I've seen) currently use. All of the other old controllers I have are the other design though.

You can still remove the welded ones with brute force if you really want to, and don't mind the risk of breaking it in the process (which is much lower if you've done it before). If you happen to have like 4 soldering irons or something to loosen all 4 of the points simultaneously I suppose you could try that method too, lol.

The pair of little nubs that fit into the board on the underside of the box are in different spots between the 2 models though, so if you want to swap a box between models you need to make holes for them on the board to sit into so the box lays flat and can snap into the sensors properly. Unless you mangled the box while removing it, the sensors alone can do an adequate job of securing it (whether it be screw or welded type).
Is there anything you don't know Magus.....
 

CluelessBTD

Smash Ace
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
987
Location
Pasadena, Tx
You can still remove the welded ones with brute force if you really want to, and don't mind the risk of breaking it in the process (which is much lower if you've done it before). If you happen to have like 4 soldering irons or something to loosen all 4 of the points simultaneously I suppose you could try that method too, lol.
I've done that before, but good luck doing it without mangling it. Also, Good Doctor guy, you should change you sig cuz I'm at college and people are wondering what kinda pornography I'm watching, haha.
 

♡ⓛⓞⓥⓔ♡

Anti-Illuminati
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
1,863
Could you post on this thread instructions on how to fix the problem with L/R shoulder buttons on white controllers?

The problem is that you can't press the shoulder buttons all the way down when you're are pressing on the edges, the buttons gets sorta "stuck". This is a problem for players like myself who tend to wavedash by instinct by pressing the shoulder buttons on the back edges since it's faster. I've heard that there might be a some kind of a guide on how to do this but I haven't found it . Since this is the only reason that keeps me from buying a white controller any help is appreaciated. I'm not a nitpick, I've heard other people saying the exact same thing about the white controllers thus they've been forced to get themselves a original gc controller.
 

Siglemic

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
425
Location
Vancouver, WA
Could you post on this thread instructions on how to fix the problem with L/R shoulder buttons on white controllers?

The problem is that you can't press the shoulder buttons all the way down when you're are pressing on the edges, the buttons gets sorta "stuck". This is a problem for players like myself who tend to wavedash by instinct by pressing the shoulder buttons on the back edges since it's faster. I've heard that there might be a some kind of a guide on how to do this but I haven't found it . Since this is the only reason that keeps me from buying a white controller any help is appreaciated. I'm not a nitpick, I've heard other people saying the exact same thing about the white controllers thus they've been forced to get themselves a original gc controller.
I believe the solution to this problem is to swap the white back shell for an original gc controller back shell
 

CluelessBTD

Smash Ace
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
987
Location
Pasadena, Tx
Could you post on this thread instructions on how to fix the problem with L/R shoulder buttons on white controllers?

The problem is that you can't press the shoulder buttons all the way down when you're are pressing on the edges, the buttons gets sorta "stuck". This is a problem for players like myself who tend to wavedash by instinct by pressing the shoulder buttons on the back edges since it's faster. I've heard that there might be a some kind of a guide on how to do this but I haven't found it . Since this is the only reason that keeps me from buying a white controller any help is appreaciated. I'm not a nitpick, I've heard other people saying the exact same thing about the white controllers thus they've been forced to get themselves a original gc controller.
I had this same problem as well and I tried various things like greasing it, but to no avail. Ultimately, the best solution is to swap the entire back out for the back of an older model controller. That's what I did. I have a white front and a black back since the triggers have a different design.
 

♡ⓛⓞⓥⓔ♡

Anti-Illuminati
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
1,863
I had this same problem as well and I tried various things like greasing it, but to no avail. Ultimately, the best solution is to swap the entire back out for the back of an older model controller. That's what I did. I have a white front and a black back since the triggers have a different design.
Ok, thanks!
 

tect

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
433
Location
Kingston, ON
Is the white controller on which you performed your fix an official Nintendo controller? On another note, is it worth buying the non-official white controllers on eBay, or should I pay for the official product?
 

LightningSykes

Smash Rookie
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
5
The official gamecube controllers are always better than 3rd party or copies. I've tried one of the copy white controllers and the buttons do not have much bounce back and the control sticks seem much less sensitive.
 

omgwtfToph

Smash Master
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
4,486
Location
San Jose
If you operate on your controller, would you really want someone to walk in and see it? Not cool on any standards. Ha. I do it anyway.
what the ****?

your gf would seriously be like "Oh my GOD you are TOUCHING ELECTRONICS. We are SO OVER."

wow dude lool

i forget what this topic is about
 

MTKO

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Feb 18, 2008
Messages
294
Location
Hampden, Maine
bump





this site is sold out
any other cheap ones anyone knows of?
Try this one: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2905

I ordered this package and it was shipped to me in about 2 and a half weeks. They work very nicely. They're $1.37 with free shipping. They feel a little cheap when you use them, so I don't know how long they actually last, but they're only $1.37, so I think it's a good deal. It comes with one triwing and one small phillips.
 
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