Change absolutely embodies the entire experience. And not just because it's open world now. Completing missions actively opens up even small parts of the map and changes old ones. This is especially apparent if you die right after completing something, when you respawn you might find an entirely new mission available for you.
The star of the show and the prime example of this is of course, Bowser. His appearance opens up so many new gameplay opportunities. Missions become harder, or sometimes, easier by his appearance. Maybe you want to try and break as many Bowser blocks while he's active, or maybe you want to try and make him go away as soon as possible. Maybe you should bail from what you were doing or maybe you should stick around and just deal with Bowser. The choice this game offers to you is what truly makes it interesting.
It reminds me of botw, how you have a central threat that you're trying to take down. But in that game Ganon was just a potato waiting for you. Bowser actually wants to fight you off. The fact that making him go away slightly decreases his health bar is the perfect addition, you never feel like you're forced to use the super bell because even completing missions still hurts him. This tug of war makes Bowser feel like a constent threat but gives you just enough power to not make you feel powerless. It's sorta like happy Majora's Mask.
The only real problem I have is how short it is. I beat it in my first sitting and am purposely saving 100%ing it until I beat 3D World. The only positive trade off from this is, with all the variety and choice implanted into the experience, Bowser's Fury is probably one of the most replayable Mario games yet.
I can't imagine an entire Mario game taking place in one world, but a game with around 5 levels each the size of Bowser's Fury would be interesting. Odyssey scratched the surface with how the Sand Kingdom starts freezed over before becoming a normal desert. If every level had the change and variety as deep as Bowser's Fury with the context of Mario Odyssey, it could make for the best Mario game yet.