N64 Controllers discussion

[Olschoolgamer]

I just had a look at this and I'm very tempted to try it. The soldering doesn't look so hard and the documentation is pretty clear.

When you order from him, do you get the PCB + potentiometer or is the GC stick also included? I already have one (GC stick) and I'd buy another one to compare. EDIT: Ok i just saw that you have to buy the GC stick separately.

I'm also interested in your review. Have you used any of the optional features? Do you have to calibrate the stick often? Is the extended range mode really necessary?

Because honestly, 10$ for the GC stick + shipping, 15$ for the PCB and potentiometer + shipping and 5-10mins of soldering for a durable stick is a very good deal. I'll try to contact the guy, thanks.

Haven't used any of the optional features, yet. I didn't install them but plan to for testing purposes. You only need to calibrate the stick once unless you calibrate it wrong. The extended range mode is not really necessary at all, it will only benefit if you are using the crosshair aiming in perfect dark or goldeneye. I am going to install the features and test them out though, for completeness sake. Also if you mess up calibrating the stick you have to open up the stick and flip a little switch. Hard, no....but super annoying when you can wire it for recalibration and do it with a couple buttons pressed. I didn't calibrate right on one of them so I had to unscrew everything to hit the switch. Not very hard to install, especially easy if you are comfortable with soldering and have a fairly steady hand. I have learned a lot about soldering through these stick mods and rgb system mods. I knew literally NOTHING about soldering and now I am fairly competent. Taught myself a new skill, which I always embrace.

 

[THE_MAAFIA]

Not enough posts to post a link yet but if you google n64 stick converter pcb v3 it should come up.

His name is Micro and lives somewhere in Europe. He was taking orders for a second batch but orders have since closed on April 4th. I should have told you guys sooner but didn't wanna say anything till I installed and tried for myself first. Pester him kindly and I'm sure you guys can get ahold of some the next pcb run. You need to be able to solder, it's not that hard and I have the most shaky hands ever. I bought 4 from him. In no way am I affiliated with him or received any compensation. I stumbled across his work while looking for a suitable N64 joystick fix, which is also how I found this message board and wound up posting here! Again I will post and give my further impressions and full recap soon!

Hey is there some way you can buy another one, install it on a remote and sell it to me? Please? I don't have soldering tools/ skills and I would just love to buy the complete product off some one!

 

[tehz]

I just had a look at this and I'm very tempted to try it. The soldering doesn't look so hard and the documentation is pretty clear.

When you order from him, do you get the PCB + potentiometer or is the GC stick also included? I already have one (GC stick) and I'd buy another one to compare. EDIT: Ok i just saw that you have to buy the GC stick separately.

I'm also interested in your review. Have you used any of the optional features? Do you have to calibrate the stick often? Is the extended range mode really necessary?

Because honestly, 10$ for the GC stick + shipping, 15$ for the PCB and potentiometer + shipping and 5-10mins of soldering for a durable stick is a very good deal. I'll try to contact the guy, thanks.

You get the PCB + the potentiometer. You need the housing (stick box, I guess) and the stick cover from the GC style N64 Stick.

You only have to calibrate the stick once, although you can re-enable calibration mode if you want. The calibration mode was there originally because you could use a diverse number or potentiometers (Xbox 360, ps3, PSP LOL). It looks like he removed the additional holes in the PCB needed to support those sticks in the new verison, though.

I don't have the new verison of the PCB yet, so there is no extended range mode. I can tell you that the old verison of the stick didn't pass the Isai Yoshi Jump test (or, at least my doesn't). Once the saw micro's post explaining the extended range mode (the N64 restrictor gate is not a perfect octagon; the corners allow for farther stick movement), I saw that the test was testing this exact functionality. I'd expect the new version of the PCB to pass, but mine haven't come yet.

EDIT: I emailed him on monday (aka after the deadline), and he was more than happy to add me into this upcoming order. It's worth a shot to email him, though I imagine you already have.

 

[MCG]

If you are able to contact him and can convince him to do another order, please let us know, I'd be interested.

He has only a few more sets from the second batch that ended on april 4th if you are interested.

 

[firo]

I got a gamecube to n64 adapter and my first impressions are very positive.

I mapped the d-pad to the control stick as well, so I have both digital and analog movement on the controller. I'm able to get very good DI with this without jamming and ruining the control stick, which is a huge benefit.

 

[AthensHorseParty]

Does anyone have an up to date link to where I can buy the officially good "Derek stick"??

 

[ganas]

Does anyone have an up to date link to where I can buy the officially good "Derek stick"??

ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-N...237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d5ac4335
their site: http://www.lukiegames.com/n64-replacement-thumbstick.html

 

[Combo Blaze]

I got a gamecube to n64 adapter and my first impressions are very positive.

I mapped the d-pad to the control stick as well, so I have both digital and analog movement on the controller. I'm able to get very good DI with this without jamming and ruining the control stick, which is a huge benefit.

das cheatin

 

[firo]

das cheatin

I don't see how this would be considered cheating as we've been fine with players using their own control methods including keyboards. There's no macro, I can't just hold a button, but now I'm mashing on a d-pad instead of a control stick and I get to preserve my controllers.

Even without that though, I am beginning to believe that using a gamecube controller is the best way to play this game. I haven't figured out what button mapping to use for ness yet, but playing all the other characters feels great, and the control stick is good, if not better than the n64 stick.

Does anyone know of any gamecube controllers that have digital triggers? I know you can remove the springs but I am looking for something like the hori battle pad for the gamecube.

 

[SheerMadness]

IMO any sort of digital DI input is cheating (keyboards and d-pads).

Technically legal (apex rule set anyway) but frowned upon in Sheer's eyes.

Bad firo!

 

[Meek_]

realized this wasn't the right thread

 

[Morin0]

I don't see how this would be considered cheating as we've been fine with players using their own control methods including keyboards. There's no macro, I can't just hold a button, but now I'm mashing on a d-pad instead of a control stick and I get to preserve my controllers.

Isn't that in of itself a macro? It's like if I had my B button mapped twice on my XBOX controller. (Which I did have it like that for a while – I later realized that this might be considered a macro, so I learned to use only one button for B.) There's a distinction between a rapid fire macro and a regular macro. Are "macros," in general, banned in tournaments?

 

[Indefa]

I don't see how this would be considered cheating as we've been fine with players using their own control methods including keyboards. There's no macro, I can't just hold a button, but now I'm mashing on a d-pad instead of a control stick and I get to preserve my controllers.

Even without that though, I am beginning to believe that using a gamecube controller is the best way to play this game. I haven't figured out what button mapping to use for ness yet, but playing all the other characters feels great, and the control stick is good, if not better than the n64 stick.

Does anyone know of any gamecube controllers that have digital triggers? I know you can remove the springs but I am looking for something like the hori battle pad for the gamecube.

Hey Firo you might have answered this in the stream that I missed but how do you find doing things like shop, dair, uair with Mario? Basically any move that you have to roll from the C buttons to A or B fast, do you find this hard?

Also the only GC controllers that I've seen with digital triggers are the Hori brand ones which unfortunately connects through a wii mote :/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...Code=as2&tag=jkfty-20&linkId=YUAQ3LEFQPJ3XH7B

 

[THE_MAAFIA]

Can some one get me one of those sticks? But the modified version that works for smash? I'll pay for it, maybe at smash con, or apex, or you can send it to my mail (please lol) I really need one

 

[Shears]

I don't see how this would be considered cheating as we've been fine with players using their own control methods including keyboards. There's no macro, I can't just hold a button, but now I'm mashing on a d-pad instead of a control stick and I get to preserve my controllers.

Even without that though, I am beginning to believe that using a gamecube controller is the best way to play this game. I haven't figured out what button mapping to use for ness yet, but playing all the other characters feels great, and the control stick is good, if not better than the n64 stick.

Does anyone know of any gamecube controllers that have digital triggers? I know you can remove the springs but I am looking for something like the hori battle pad for the gamecube.

I've had the same feelings about the gamecube controller. If the triggers become buttons the whole thing will be much better. My only problem with switching to a gamecube controller is the hassle of always having to set it up, that and being a real Benedict Arnold.

 

[ganas]

My only problem with switching to a gamecube controller is the hassle of always having to set it up

Raphael has a new firmware version that can save a default button mapping, but I don't know if he's sold any adapters with the new firmware or not. Mine is the version previous to the newest, although I ordered it in March and the newest firmware was apparently released in Februrary.

 

[Shears]

Raphael has a new firmware version that can save a default button mapping, but I don't know if he's sold any adapters with the new firmware or not. Mine is the version previous to the newest, although I ordered it in March and the newest firmware was apparently released in Februrary.

Well I can save the configuration by mapping it to one of the D-Pad directions but everytime I plug it in I have to hold down start for 8 seconds, wait for the beep, then press the D-Pad direction. It doesn't sound like much but it gets annoying after a while.

 

[tehz]

Raphael has a new firmware version that can save a default button mapping.

Thank god. If only there was a way to update the firmware on old adapters.

 

[ganas]

Well I can save the configuration by mapping it to one of the D-Pad directions but everytime I plug it in I have to hold down start for 8 seconds, wait for the beep, then press the D-Pad direction. It doesn't sound like much but it gets annoying after a while.

Yeah I have one and it's the same as yours in that you have to set the mapping every time you plug the controller in. Check Raph's site, he has some details on the firmware versions. There is a new version (1.5) in which you can save a mapping that automatically loads when the controller is plugged in, but mine (and I assume yours) is a previous version (1.4) before that feature was implemented. I shot Raphael an e-mail and asked him how difficult it would be to flash the board with newer firmware, and he said it's possible but not very easy.

edit: here's his e-mail to me.

Hello,

It's possible, but it's not simple...

To update the firmware, you need to cut open the adapter without damaging
the circuit board, install a 2x3 pin header on the unpopulated footprint you
will find on the bottom side (or solder wires directly there) and connect
an AVR programmer (Examples here :http://www.raphnet.net/divers/avrprog/index_en.php)

 

[Shears]

Yeah I have one and it's the same as yours in that you have to set the mapping every time you plug the controller in. Check Raph's site, he has some details on the firmware versions. There is a new version (1.5) in which you can save a mapping that automatically loads when the controller is plugged in, but mine (and I assume yours) is a previous version (1.4) before that feature was implemented. I shot Raphael an e-mail and asked him how difficult it would be to flash the board with newer firmware, and he said it's possible but not very easy.

edit: here's his e-mail to me.

Yeah not worth it. I'll either buy a new one in the future or just have the melee kids at Xanadu learn how to configure themselves so they can just do it.

 

[MCG]

Can some one get me one of those sticks? But the modified version that works for smash? I'll pay for it, maybe at smash con, or apex, or you can send it to my mail (please lol) I really need one

I'd recommend to ask around if you know someone with a soldering iron, solder and try it for yourself. There are tons of good video online to learn how to solder and it's not that hard, really! Trust me, you can do it easily. I'll have my PCB and potentiometer shipped in about 4-7 weeks so I could help you if need extra help.

 

[THE_MAAFIA]

I'd recommend to ask around if you know someone with a soldering iron, solder and try it for yourself. There are tons of good video online to learn how to solder and it's not that hard, really! Trust me, you can do it easily. I'll have my PCB and potentiometer shipped in about 4-7 weeks so I could help you if need extra help.

Dunno what those 2 mean but ok any way lol thanks!

 

[MCG]

Dunno what those 2 mean but ok any way lol thanks!

PCB : printed circuit board
Potentiometer : The inside of the joystick, translates movement into different voltage.

You need to replace both those parts from the Derek stick to fix the sensitivity.

 

[firo]

Choosing the mapping isn't a big deal at all for me really - you just need to do it once when you plug it in, and if you plug it in while holding start it immediately goes into mapping mode so you can load the mapping in only a couple of seconds. And about mapping multiple buttons to the same input, the n64 controller already has 4 jump buttons, and the hori has 4 jump buttons and 2 z buttons - this is nothing new.

@ Indefa , I don't really have any issues with doing short hop dair uair with mario, or most other quick tech. Since you can map your buttons, you can try and optimize a lot of movements. Shine cancelling is not easy but I'm experimenting with different methods. Right now my best results have been sliding from up on the c-stick to b.

Doing quick DK turns and other things that may require spamming z is also a bit hard, but I'm getting used to not spamming as much. I also have z mapped to X, so I can hit that if I need to.

 

[Indefa]

Choosing the mapping isn't a big deal at all for me really - you just need to do it once when you plug it in, and if you plug it in while holding start it immediately goes into mapping mode so you can load the mapping in only a couple of seconds. And about mapping multiple buttons to the same input, the n64 controller already has 4 jump buttons, and the hori has 4 jump buttons and 2 z buttons - this is nothing new.

@ THE_MAAFIA , I don't really have any issues with doing short hop dair uair with mario, or most other quick tech. Since you can map your buttons, you can try and optimize a lot of movements. Shine cancelling is not easy but I'm experimenting with different methods. Right now my best results have been sliding from up on the c-stick to b.

Doing quick DK turns and other things that may require spamming z is also a bit hard, but I'm getting used to not spamming as much. I also have z mapped to X, so I can hit that if I need to.

Think you meant to direct this to me and not @ THE_MAAFIA . Incorporating the c-stick into movement in 64 sounds interesting. I've never like the position of it but I'm sure I can get used to it if it means I get to use that delicious GC stick.

Would also have to look into removing the springs of the shoulder buttons I guess since we can't use the one I linked in my last comment.

 

[firo]

Think you meant to direct this to me and not @ THE_MAAFIA . Incorporating the c-stick into movement in 64 sounds interesting. I've never like the position of it but I'm sure I can get used to it if it means I get to use that delicious GC stick.

Would also have to look into removing the springs of the shoulder buttons I guess since we can't use the one I linked in my last comment.

Yeah my bad - that was meant for you. I'm finding all technical movements to be easier on the GC stick than the derek.

Assuming you only need one button to jump, that means any two of X, Y, R can be changed around, along with all of the c-stick and the d pad.

I've thought of some wonky stuff for ness - like mapping X and A to jump and B to A so I can roll my thumb down. Still a lot of tinkering to go.

 

[Indefa]

Yeah my bad - that was meant for you. I'm finding all technical movements to be easier on the GC stick than the derek.

Assuming you only need one button to jump, that means any two of X, Y, R can be changed around, along with all of the c-stick and the d pad.

I've thought of some wonky stuff for ness - like mapping X and A to jump and B to A so I can roll my thumb down. Still a lot of tinkering to go.

That sounds really cool, now I'm super keen to try this.
Thanks for all the info Mr.Firo.

 

[tehz]

Yeah, I always mapped the c-stick to the c buttons (so I have all of the colors). You can DJC pretty fast by rotating the stick and mapping A to like Z or R. Shine Cancels are easy too (flick C-Stick up and move thumb to B).

I just wish there was a Z-L and a Z-R button.

 

[ganas]

Did anyone happen to get a Micro PCB from his last update? I'm playing the waiting game on an e-mail right now, but I assume the batch has been sold out and I don't know how long it would be until he does another. Just got some Derek sticks in today and I want to do the PCB mod.

 

[MCG]

I managed to get two sets even though I was a few days after the deadline. When I asked about it, he told me he only had a few more. Good luck!

 

[Morin0]

I am looking into buying a GC to N64 adapter from Raphnet soon. Does anyone have any idea what range/deadzone this adapter uses? Also, what deadzone/range settings do people people recommend for Pj64K?

 

[Indefa]

@ firo I got an email today from Raphael at Raphnet, he said he's got a Wii classic controller to N64 adapter (this would include the Hori GC controller that @jimmyjoe has) on his todo list. However he also said he might not get round to it this year. Maybe we should all try throwing money at him.

 

[Dark Horse]

I got the replacement gears and noticed they were catching a lot. Fireblaster told me to sand them so I did it this way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOSCeXSL7vY

Anyone know of a different/better way?

 

[felipe_9595]

I am looking into buying a GC to N64 adapter from Raphnet soon. Does anyone have any idea what range/deadzone this adapter uses? Also, what deadzone/range settings do people people recommend for Pj64K?

As for PJ64k, i think the best settings are using the Nrage Direct Input 1.61 plugin, range 66% (Default N64), 5-7% Deadzone (Depending on your stick condition). it should works like a charm.

This same settings work like crap for other plugins, including superior versions of Nrage for unknow reasons, so i would stick with 1.61

 

[MCG]

I got the replacement gears and noticed they were catching a lot. Fireblaster told me to sand them so I did it this way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOSCeXSL7vY

Anyone know of a different/better way?

I used a sharp knife or a razor blade because that's what I had but I expect the results to be quite similar as the sanding method.

 

[wprpalmeida]

Folks, I was wondering how well would my possible kickstarter project do. What I want to do is improve hyperkin's RepairBox replacement analog stick, much akin to what micro's PCB for the gamecube-styled stick is for.

I have three good reasons as to why do this:

1- The RepairBox has a much more similar (and in my opinion, identical when lubricated properly) look-and-feel to the original N64 Analog Stick.
2- The gamecube-styled stick's restrictor gate is octagonal. However, the original N64 stick isn't, it's somewhat warped around the diagonals, and the RepairBox stick has the same shape as the original.
3- Despite feeling sturdy and responsive at first glance, the RepairBox stick has a big deadzone and lacks that precision that the original N64 stick had. But the beauty of it is these problems have an entirely electronic root cause, and would require no plastic parts to be fabricated. It might even be able to use those weird 2-wire sticks we see on eBay.

In essence, I want to take micro's idea of a modern N64 stick to a design that is as close to the original as possible.

I'm a licensed Electrical Engineer with all the background required for such a project.

What do you guys think?

 

[THE_MAAFIA]

Folks, I was wondering how well would my possible kickstarter project do. What I want to do is improve hyperkin's RepairBox replacement analog stick, much akin to what micro's PCB for the gamecube-styled stick is for.

I have three good reasons as to why do this:

1- The RepairBox has a much more similar (and in my opinion, identical when lubricated properly) look-and-feel to the original N64 Analog Stick.
2- The gamecube-styled stick's restrictor gate is octagonal. However, the original N64 stick isn't, it's somewhat warped around the diagonals, and the RepairBox stick has the same shape as the original.
3- Despite feeling sturdy and responsive at first glance, the RepairBox stick has a big deadzone and lacks that precision that the original N64 stick had. But the beauty of it is these problems have an entirely electronic root cause, and would require no plastic parts to be fabricated. It might even be able to use those weird 2-wire sticks we see on eBay.

In essence, I want to take micro's idea of a modern N64 stick to a design that is as close to the original as possible.

I'm a licensed Electrical Engineer with all the background required for such a project.

What do you guys think?

That sounds awesome! I'm sure a lot of us would love that

 

[AthensHorseParty]

Folks, I was wondering how well would my possible kickstarter project do. What I want to do is improve hyperkin's RepairBox replacement analog stick, much akin to what micro's PCB for the gamecube-styled stick is for.

I have three good reasons as to why do this:

1- The RepairBox has a much more similar (and in my opinion, identical when lubricated properly) look-and-feel to the original N64 Analog Stick.
2- The gamecube-styled stick's restrictor gate is octagonal. However, the original N64 stick isn't, it's somewhat warped around the diagonals, and the RepairBox stick has the same shape as the original.
3- Despite feeling sturdy and responsive at first glance, the RepairBox stick has a big deadzone and lacks that precision that the original N64 stick had. But the beauty of it is these problems have an entirely electronic root cause, and would require no plastic parts to be fabricated. It might even be able to use those weird 2-wire sticks we see on eBay.

In essence, I want to take micro's idea of a modern N64 stick to a design that is as close to the original as possible.

I'm a licensed Electrical Engineer with all the background required for such a project.

What do you guys think?

have you made a prototype yet? You should do that and send it to like one really well known pro 64 player and I bet a **** ton of us would back your KS. (Me for one)

 

[wprpalmeida]

have you made a prototype yet? You should do that and send it to like one really well known pro 64 player and I bet a **** ton of us would back your KS. (Me for one)

No I haven't yet. I have just ordered the microcontroller samples and the project is currently on design phase, which shouldn't take very long. I intend on finishing the board design and producing some in 10 days. Unfortunately I only have one RepairBox, and as I live in Brazil, even if I were to buy more it'd take a LONG time for it to get here. So despite a prototype being somewhere within the next four to five weeks, it'll most likely be just mine. But I'll do my best to make this as feasible as possible for worldwide distribution.

 

[sjnromw]

I've finally found my controller! Way back when I started this thread I was suffering from poorly made replacement sticks and a couple poorly described "like new" controllers I ordered from ebay, and I had resigned to using whatever controller was available.

Recently I ordered a Gamecube to N64 adapter from http://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/gc_to_n64_adapter/index.php and I feel I've finally arrived at my perfect solution.

This adapter is great for a few reasons:
Gamecube controllers are cheap and easy to replace should they wear out
I cannot find any input lag difference from the standard N64 controller
the joystick sensitivity is perfectly symmetrical
tilt range and deadzone feel great
reprogrammable buttons make it easy to find your most comfortable button layout
ability to save multiple controller profiles in case you ever find a reason to play something other than smash
the length of a gamecube controller cable is certainly a plus as well, I can sit wherever I want!


For me, the only drawbacks of using a gamecube controller are the L and R buttons. It does take some getting used to, but I have little trouble getting my z cancels now that I have adjusted my muscle memory. ( I find that setting the L and R buttons to be Z and R respectively, and then programming them to register a press at the 50% threshold instead of the fully depressed 'click' makes things very comfortable.)


The adapter is around $30 shipped to the US (keep in mind the price on the site is Canadian currency). I figure this could be a great option for many people who already have a gamecube controller, and even if you have to get a controller plus the adapter, it is probably cheaper than any Hori controller you could find. I have also seen a Hori controller wear out and have deadzone problems, which makes the gamecube adapter a safer option.

If you are a super serious player you might want spend the money and play with Hori controllers because the Z and R buttons are definitely preferable, but for $30 this adapter satisfies all of my needs and has breathed a new life into my smash game. I didn't improve much just from getting this controller, but at least I can't john about messy N64 sticks anymore.

I didn't mean for this to be so long so I apologize, and I want to say that I am in no way affiliated with raphnet-tech. I only hope that this can make the game more fun for some of you struggling to find a good controller.