Lightshield trigger tricking
I mentioned in a response above to dvatch that one possible way to get a consistent lightshield is to trigger trick L or R such that pressing the trigger until just before the click yields a lightshield of ideal "lightness" (approximately close to a Z shield).
Terminology (for clarity):
A digital trigger press is pressing L or R past the click.
An analog trigger press is pressing L or R, but before the click.
Pressing "all the way down" will refer to an analog press to just before the click.
Trigger tricking is manipulating the 0 value of the L or R trigger button by holding the button down before plugging in the controller or recalibrating the controller using X + Y + start.
Determining depth of trigger trick
Plug your controller into port 1. In 20XX, go to the Debug Menu > Training Codes and set Debug Level to Develop. Start a match in Vs. Mode or go into Training Mode.
Here we have to use Magus's physics input display. Press X + Dpad right to turn it on. Next, press L + Dpad right to highlight the first set of floats and then press L + Dpad up/down until it displays Item -> System Analog L/R.
In this display, the left value is the analog depth of the L trigger and the right value is the analog depth of the R trigger. Make sure that both read 0.00000 or close to it. If they don't, unplug/replug your controller or recalibrate it by holding down X + Y + start.
A brief digression on mechanics: if you recall from above, there are 141 discrete analog inputs ranging from 0 to 1, inclusive. Inputs that are 0.30000 or less do not register for commands such as lightshielding or L-canceling. You must input at least a 0.30714 analog press for the lightest possible lightshield. Additionally, you may notice that even when you press a trigger "all the way down," there is still some variation in the analog depth based how much pressure you're exerting on the trigger. Therefore, even when trigger tricking using this method, there will still be some inconsistency in analog depth, so it's humanly impossible to consistently get the lightest possible lightshield.
Press a trigger until the display reads a depth of approximately 0.85000. Hold the trigger at that depth, then press and hold X + Y+ start to recalibrate the controller. You will know when the controller is recalibrated when both analog L/R input displays reset to 0. Next, press the trigger "all the way down" several times and observe what analog depths you get. They should be fairly close to 0.35, which is the strength of a Z lightshield, with some variation.
Play around with this and try to lightshield out of different actions to see how consistently you can get desirable lightshields. If you find yourself frequently failing to bring up lightshield, then you need to either press the trigger "all the way down" a little harder or you need to recalibrate the trigger to a shallower depth (such as 0.80000). If you find yourself frequently shielding a little too hard, then you need to recalibrate the trigger to a deeper depth.
Testing
After calibrating the L trigger to the desired depth (0.85000), I semi-randomly attempted to lightshield in the middle of my movement practice routine by pressing L "all the way down" and logging the input from Magus's physics input display. I did this 40 times.
Mean analog L input: 0.35625
Mode analog L input: 0.34286
Lightest analog L input: 0.31429
Heaviest analog L input: 0.4
This is pretty good. In 40 attempts, I lightshielded all 40 times, with the heaviest input still being acceptable (in my opinion). It took a little bit of getting used to to lightshield consistently out of some actions than others. It's probably more desirable to get heavier lightshields than to occasionally miss a lightshield because the input is too shallow.
Real-life applicability
Okay, so now you have a good idea of how to trigger trick your controller to get consistent lightshields. The problem, of course, is that in a real-life setting such as a tournament, you're not going to be playing on a 20XX setup where you can meticulously calibrate your controller with Magus's assistance. Somehow you'll have to do this without any precise feedback from the game at all. Unfortunately, I haven't thought too hard about this, but I have a couple of ideas.
Since all Yoshi players, in my opinion, should already be trigger tricking one trigger for guaranteed parries, using a lightshield trigger trick would require both L and R to be offset from their standard calibrations. If you light press the non-parry trigger for L-cancels, this can be a problem unless you consistently L-cancel by pressing "all the way down" (since lighter presses no longer register). The obvious solution is to L-cancel with Z.
I mentioned in a response above to dvatch that one possible way to get a consistent lightshield is to trigger trick L or R such that pressing the trigger until just before the click yields a lightshield of ideal "lightness" (approximately close to a Z shield).
Terminology (for clarity):
A digital trigger press is pressing L or R past the click.
An analog trigger press is pressing L or R, but before the click.
Pressing "all the way down" will refer to an analog press to just before the click.
Trigger tricking is manipulating the 0 value of the L or R trigger button by holding the button down before plugging in the controller or recalibrating the controller using X + Y + start.
Determining depth of trigger trick
Plug your controller into port 1. In 20XX, go to the Debug Menu > Training Codes and set Debug Level to Develop. Start a match in Vs. Mode or go into Training Mode.
Here we have to use Magus's physics input display. Press X + Dpad right to turn it on. Next, press L + Dpad right to highlight the first set of floats and then press L + Dpad up/down until it displays Item -> System Analog L/R.
In this display, the left value is the analog depth of the L trigger and the right value is the analog depth of the R trigger. Make sure that both read 0.00000 or close to it. If they don't, unplug/replug your controller or recalibrate it by holding down X + Y + start.
A brief digression on mechanics: if you recall from above, there are 141 discrete analog inputs ranging from 0 to 1, inclusive. Inputs that are 0.30000 or less do not register for commands such as lightshielding or L-canceling. You must input at least a 0.30714 analog press for the lightest possible lightshield. Additionally, you may notice that even when you press a trigger "all the way down," there is still some variation in the analog depth based how much pressure you're exerting on the trigger. Therefore, even when trigger tricking using this method, there will still be some inconsistency in analog depth, so it's humanly impossible to consistently get the lightest possible lightshield.
Press a trigger until the display reads a depth of approximately 0.85000. Hold the trigger at that depth, then press and hold X + Y+ start to recalibrate the controller. You will know when the controller is recalibrated when both analog L/R input displays reset to 0. Next, press the trigger "all the way down" several times and observe what analog depths you get. They should be fairly close to 0.35, which is the strength of a Z lightshield, with some variation.
Play around with this and try to lightshield out of different actions to see how consistently you can get desirable lightshields. If you find yourself frequently failing to bring up lightshield, then you need to either press the trigger "all the way down" a little harder or you need to recalibrate the trigger to a shallower depth (such as 0.80000). If you find yourself frequently shielding a little too hard, then you need to recalibrate the trigger to a deeper depth.
Testing
After calibrating the L trigger to the desired depth (0.85000), I semi-randomly attempted to lightshield in the middle of my movement practice routine by pressing L "all the way down" and logging the input from Magus's physics input display. I did this 40 times.
Mean analog L input: 0.35625
Mode analog L input: 0.34286
Lightest analog L input: 0.31429
Heaviest analog L input: 0.4
This is pretty good. In 40 attempts, I lightshielded all 40 times, with the heaviest input still being acceptable (in my opinion). It took a little bit of getting used to to lightshield consistently out of some actions than others. It's probably more desirable to get heavier lightshields than to occasionally miss a lightshield because the input is too shallow.
Real-life applicability
Okay, so now you have a good idea of how to trigger trick your controller to get consistent lightshields. The problem, of course, is that in a real-life setting such as a tournament, you're not going to be playing on a 20XX setup where you can meticulously calibrate your controller with Magus's assistance. Somehow you'll have to do this without any precise feedback from the game at all. Unfortunately, I haven't thought too hard about this, but I have a couple of ideas.
- Mark or etch your trigger with a line that corresponds to the target calibration depth. This can lead to some precision issues because you have to eyeball how far to press each time you plug in your controller.
- Make an object that can consistently press the trigger to the target calibration depth. This can be as simple as a hard object that somewhat fits the contours of the controller. The drawback is that you have to carry around this object and take care to not lose or damage it.
Since all Yoshi players, in my opinion, should already be trigger tricking one trigger for guaranteed parries, using a lightshield trigger trick would require both L and R to be offset from their standard calibrations. If you light press the non-parry trigger for L-cancels, this can be a problem unless you consistently L-cancel by pressing "all the way down" (since lighter presses no longer register). The obvious solution is to L-cancel with Z.
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