Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

[tonic]

Question about quarter circle empty pivots/smash turns: How do the notches affect them? I can currently quarter circle empty pivot with 90% success rate moving into the SE and 70% success rate moving into the SW notch, and a little less consistently doing it from a neutral stick position. Do the notches help make the motion more consistent, or do they interfere?

I wonder if an adjustment to the gate that, when hit by the control stick at a certain angle, makes sliding from the smashturn to crouch zone a natural movement.

 

[Abet117]

Kadano Help a marth main out! When are you selling these?

 

[Kadano]

Question about quarter circle empty pivots/smash turns: How do the notches affect them? I can currently quarter circle empty pivot with 90% success rate moving into the SE and 70% success rate moving into the SW notch, and a little less consistently doing it from a neutral stick position. Do the notches help make the motion more consistent, or do they interfere?

I wonder if an adjustment to the gate that, when hit by the control stick at a certain angle, makes sliding from the smashturn to crouch zone a natural movement.

Some time ago, when I first did A4F (pivot ftilt notches) for a commission and experimented how to do these properly, I compared the modified controller’s pivot inputs for pivot dtilt, ftilt and empty pivot versus a vanilla gate controller, and it was considerably easier with the modified one. Apart from A4F, it also had A2 for the entire southern half.
A4F doesn’t affect empty pivots as long as you have A2. It only enables quick pivot ftilts.

Kadano Help a marth main out! When are you selling these?

Well, right now. The only limitation is supply—especially JP white controllers at a reasonable price are a bit rare. I can only pull about 7 of these per month, so if you order JP white, you might have to wait up to three months until I receive your controller.
Smash 4 controllers are abundant, I should be able to finish all of these orders within 2-3 weeks.

Used controllers are limited too, I just today cleaned all I have thoroughly and will process the orders that requested these (@hectohertz, @Mew2King, some others) within the next few days.

 

[tonic]

Some time ago, when I first did A4F (pivot ftilt notches) for a commission and experimented how to do these properly, I compared the modified controller’s pivot inputs for pivot dtilt, ftilt and empty pivot versus a vanilla gate controller, and it was considerably easier with the modified one. Apart from A4F, it also had A2 for the entire southern half.
A4F doesn’t affect empty pivots as long as you have A2. It only enables quick pivot ftilts.

How exactly did you enable "quick" pivot ftilts and dtilts? Just putting in a notch so that directly after a smash turn, you just needed to move the stick to the notch? I understand if it's a trade secret haha.

So there's no modification you've tested that makes it easier to actually smash turn/empty pivot in itself, just for actions after the pivot has already occurred?

 

[Kadano]

How exactly did you enable "quick" pivot ftilts and dtilts? Just putting in a notch so that directly after a smash turn, you just needed to move the stick to the notch? I understand if it's a trade secret haha.

Yeah, kinda like that, but because the pivot ftilt values are so close to shield drop (but just not overlapping), it was a bit hard to get both notches to work well, even though they are so close to each other.
It would be easier for people who don’t need the shield drop notches. But so far, everyone ordered these, so …

So there's no modification you've tested that makes it easier to actually smash turn/empty pivot in itself, just for actions after the pivot has already occurred?

Well, as I said before, A2 did make empty pivots easier. Sliding distance from ESE to SE / WSW to SW is considerably shorter that way (than E to SE / W to SW on vanilla gates).

 

[Viridis]

For doing this, I will charge my costs for the controller (20€ for one of my used controllers, 25€ for a Smash white or black one, 32€ for a JP white one)

I have another question: What's the difference in performance between the Smash White/Black, and the JP White?

 

[Kadano]

I have another question: What's the difference in performance between the Smash White/Black, and the JP White?

http://smashboards.com/posts/20525169/

 

[Haywire5714]

A3, B2aLR, B4LR, C=Smash White, E1

 

[Kadano]

A3, A3, B2aLR, B4LR, C=Smash White, E1

Double A3? Was the first one supposed to be A0 or A2 maybe?

 

[Haywire5714]

oh whoops lol just A3

 

[kmgamer]

A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW); C whichever controller is fastest, would even be happy with a good used old school controller. D1, D2, E2

 

[Kadano]

Added!

I‘m on vacation until 2015-12-23, so I can’t reply or work on controller orders until then.

 

[kmgamer]

Added!

I‘m on vacation until 2015-12-23, so I can’t reply or work on controller orders until then.

No worries! Enjoy vacation

 

[AGuacworkOrange]

Hope you're enjoying vacation! Just posting this here for when you return.

A3, B4L, B5L, C=SB, E2

 

[FuddyDuddy]

Does B6 help with soft press L-cancels?

A0,A2b(ESE, WSW),A3,B1R,B4RL,B5RXY,B6L80,D2a,C=Whichever of new ones is fastest,E2

 

[Berble]

A0, A3, B1R, C = JP white, E2

 

[nugget61]

Hi, I'd like the following on a black smash 4 controller when you get the chance.
C2
A2b
A3
B4lr
B5r
D2b

I live in the states, and all the codes have me lost. On mobile it's hard to scroll up and type down here (don't have a computer) so I'm not 100% I formatted it correctly. Is there a link to a wait list?

 

[Unconventional Rhinoceros]

A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.

 

[skips]

A3
B4LR
B5LR 60
B6LR 70
C = JP White (if available), otherwise Smash Black or Smash White
E2 (Canada).

 

[Archelon]

My control stick seems to stick when I put it about at the angle you would to wavedash back. Does anyone know if this is because the notches have worn the base of the stick to a point where tthe rubber goes so far it sticks to the side? Thanks.

 

[Alvin Cheong]

A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=Smash Black, E2

Would it be fine to take it apart and switch out the top and bottom faces of the controller? (ex. switch the smash black top face with a JP white i already have) Or would that ruin all the mods and such? I was also confused in what you meant by "screwing in a replacement stickbox." Do you mean just screwing in a new, gray, control sick? Thank you for your time.

 

[Big Daddy Josh]

edit: Im not ordering one after all.

 

[Unconventional Rhinoceros]

Kadano,

Actually, I have a followup question for my order (which was "A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.").

I currently have 2 good controllers, which I will refer to as 'A' and 'B.'

Controller A has been my main one for years. The analog stick has become loose and wobbly, and dashing/ledgedashing is now pretty difficult, but it shield-drops and executes turnaround neutral b (for, say, sheik's needles) so perfectly that I keep using it.

Controller B is one that I have just started testing out recently. The analog stick on this one is extremely tight and sensitive, and it dashes/ledgedashes beautifully. However, it almost never does turnaround neutral b unless I move the stick very slowly (and it also doesn't shield drop to the right, though that is beside the point).

Thus, what I am looking for in my controller order is something that has the positives of both of those controllers -- one that has a tight enough stick to dash/ledgedash easily, but which will not fail to turnaround neutral b if I smash the stick. My question is this: is such a request even possible? Are those 2 goals mutually exclusive because of the nature of a tight or loose analog stick, or is there a way to satisfy both conditions (through, I'm assuming, controller voodoo magic)?

 

[Kadano]

I’ve added all of the last requests to the list. Removed that of Big Daddy Josh again as requested.

U Unconventional Rhinoceros I have not yet found a way to remove snapback in new controllers, although I have tried some things. I don’t understand why some controllers have better back dashes yet, so I cannot say whether these two things are mutually exclusive or not.

 

[Gr33ns]

Hey Kadano, I saw one of these in person and the second I felt the gate I knew I needed one. Not to mention the triggers. Its amazing. Cheers!

A0, A1, A3, b2b, B3(right), B4, B5(left), B7(Y button) C= Sm4sh white, E2

 

[Scroll]

Hey Kadano, I saw one of these in person and the second I felt the gate I knew I needed one. Not to mention the triggers. Its amazing. Cheers!

A0, A1, A3, b1, b2b, B3(right), B4, B5(left), B7(B button) C= Sm4sh white, E2

Could you describe the triggers? What do you like about them?

 

[Gr33ns]

Could you describe the triggers? What do you like about them?

Sure man. Normally after full depression of the L button I feel like a twinge in my forearm. I guess that is close to max length of my finger range or something. Anyways, when I held that other controller that had the actuation point raised it felt a lot more natural and less stressful, although I did not get to test it extensively. They also felt super smooth which I assume is the oil he applies.

Edit: Kadano I made a couple changes to my order, removing b1 and changing b7 to the Y button instead of B. I also changed my original post to reflect this.

 

[Melee Kunis]

Kadano Does A2 help in executing pivot up-tilts? From my understand it does help with pivot down-tilts. Furthermore, if it does, which is the better of the two, A2a or A2b, or do they perform the same?

 

[Kadano]

Kadano Does A2 help in executing pivot up-tilts? From my understand it does help with pivot down-tilts. Furthermore, if it does, which is the better of the two, A2a or A2b, or do they perform the same?

It does not, unfortunately. Pivot utilt requires you to leave the range that triggers dash after the smash turn, and you also may not press too far up (which would trigger a jump). Because of that, you need to do just a slight upward tilt on the control stick for the utilt input. That motion would not have the stick touch the octagon gate, so the shape of that does not make a difference here.

 

[Scroll]

Sure man. Normally after full depression of the L button I feel like a twinge in my forearm. I guess that is close to max length of my finger range or something. Anyways, when I held that other controller that had the actuation point raised it felt a lot more natural and less stressful, although I did not get to test it extensively. They also felt super smooth which I assume is the oil he applies.

Edit: Kadano I made a couple changes to my order, removing b1 and changing b7 to the Y button instead of B. I also changed my original post to reflect this.

Thank you.
I have been thinking about adding other stuff to my controller besides gate notches, but decided not to because I never ran into problems with mine.
Side note I am not sure what Kadano uses. But I would recommend anyone against using any kind of oil for lubrication. The far superior lubricant for this kind of deal is Silicon Spray.
Once applied it is wet. But it will dry out and becomes a powder.
You should not assemble your controller before the lubricant is completely dry.

 

[Kadano]

Edit: Kadano I made a couple changes to my order, removing b1 and changing b7 to the Y button instead of B. I also changed my original post to reflect this.

Thanks, updated! If you have any more changes, pleases tell me about them by starting a conversation with me here. It’s harder for me to miss your updates this way.

Side note I am not sure what Kadano uses. But I would recommend anyone against using any kind of oil for lubrication. The far superior lubricant for this kind of deal is Silicon Spray.
Once applied it is wet. But it will dry out and becomes a powder.
You should not assemble your controller before the lubricant is completely dry.

I use silicone oil very sparingly as is mentioned in the OP. I apply it with a Q-tip to ensure not too much oil gets in. (I never had a silicone spray, so I can’t say whether it would be easier with that, but my method has always worked fine and fixed the getting stuck issue for everyone without complaints, so I see no need to switch to spray.)

 

[Alvin Cheong]

Kadano
I linked you my paypal email address and a couple other questions last week in our private conversation. Could you check it out when you have time? Thank you for your time.

 

[Scroll]

Thanks, updated! If you have any more changes, pleases tell me about them by starting a conversation with me here. It’s harder for me to miss your updates this way.


I use silicon oil very sparingly as is mentioned in the OP. I apply it with a Q-tip to ensure not too much oil gets in. (I never had a silicon spray, so I can’t say whether it would be easier with that, but my method has always worked fine and fixed the getting stuck issue for everyone without complaints, so I see no need to switch to spray.)

The problem with wet oil is that in time it will catch dust particles in a quicker fashion that dry lubricant would, thus creating tension causing parts to become sticky.
With dry lubricantg you need to clean your controller less frequently and it performs more smoothly after each treatment.
I highly recommend that you try it out! (You won't go back I promise).

 

[nugget61]

Heyo kadano

Do you know how long it will take me to get my controller? I assume you're pretty backlogged with orders, so I'm pretty much just looking for an update on how long it will take to get through the mailing list. Also is there a better way I can contact you? I don't use smashboards often at all.

Thanks

 

[Kadano]

Heyo kadano

Do you know how long it will take me to get my controller? I assume you're pretty backlogged with orders, so I'm pretty much just looking for an update on how long it will take to get through the mailing list. Also is there a better way I can contact you? I don't use smashboards often at all.

Thanks

Hey,

Two months is realistic for me to be finished with it. If I receive the last couple of orders earlier than I expect, maybe one month.
Your order says “C2”, by the way. Which controller type / color are you referring to here?

You can also contact me by email: mail.david.schmid@gmail.com

 

[eet]

A3, B2b(R), B4, C= JP White, E2

 

[Gr33ns]

snip

Hey Kadano would you say the pivot F-tilt notches interfere with the axe shield drop notches at all? If not I would like that added to my order A4F? I think.

Also I want B1(right only) added back on xD

 

[Kadano]

I am not taking any more orders for JP white controllers for the time being. The last stock is running out, prices from my main supplier have increased from 30€ to 165€. Occasionally I can get one from Japan through Amazon for about 90€, but that’s not really reliable / even at that price, there are only few available.

For all of you who are in the queue waiting for JP whites, please let me know whether you want to change your order to Smash White or Smash Black instead, which I can get very easily.

Hey Kadano would you say the pivot F-tilt notches interfere with the axe shield drop notches at all? If not I would like that added to my order A4F? I think.

Also I want B1(right only) added back on xD

The ftilt notches make the motion feel slightly different, but it’s still easy to be consistent. You might have to pay a little more attention and may not press it as sloppily as you want and still get the shield drop consistently.

I added B1R back to your order.

 

[Wassabi1320]

Hey Kadano,


Would you be able to add me onto the list for a controller? A0, A3, B2aR, B4RL, B5RL, B6RL, B7Y, and C= JP white, E2


Let me know if it is easier if I buy a controller and get it shipped to you using Amazon Prime?

 

[Kadano]

Hey Kadano,


Would you be able to add me onto the list for a controller? A0, A3, B2aR, B4RL, B5RL, B6RL, B7Y, and C= JP white, E2


Let me know if it is easier if I buy a controller and get it shipped to you using Amazon Prime?

Hey,

As I just stated, I am not accepting additional JP white (2008) orders for now. If you send it to me, that would work, but it would be your responsibility to get the controller shipped to me and pay for additional customs fees I have to pay (basically about +40% for everything that is more than 25€ in value). Most of the listings on Amazon.com don’t even ship to Austria, unfortunately.

Here is my address so you can check which sellers would ship to me:

Aschergasse 70
1130 Vienna
Austria