Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

[Kadano]

Hi Kadano! I would like:

• Smash 4 black controller
• A0
• A3
• B2b
• B4LR
• B6L70R70
• D2
• E2

My contact info is charlesrmadere@gmail.com, thanks!!

Taken! I'll contact you at that address then.

 

[FSU_pawN]

Alright, order taken! I'll let you know when I can start with yours. I expect that to take about two months with the long queue.


As long as you tighten all six triwing screws again and don't fiddle with the front plate or the stick box, it shouldn't cause any problems.

I've added these to your entry! Do you just want the B button to sit lower or do you want its surface to have a different shape?
If you want to ease sliding inputs for YB, you might also benefit from B7A, which changes the shape so that you can slide between these without hitting A.

Spoiler: B7A

Nah just have the B Button sit lower, and if possible slope it SLIGHTLY for Y<->B sliding but leave the A button normal. Thank you very much Kadano !

 

[Kaoak]

A3 B4 C=Any with a high dash back success rate and low control stick resistance

 

[Kaoak]

Also I was wondering how B5 and B6 effect wavedashing

 

[Kadano]

Order added to the list.

Also I was wondering how B5 and B6 effect wavedashing

They make it take less force to activate the airdodge input. The distance you need to move with your finger stays the same though.

 

[Kaoak]

Order added to the list.

They make it take less force to activate the airdodge input. The distance you need to move with your finger stays the same though.

Alright, do you mind adding those two modifications (B5 and B6) to my order? I tend to incorporate a lot of wavedashes into my gameplay and have had problems with the triggers on smash controllers having too much resistance

 

[D E F I A N T]

Hello Kadano! I would like
(A3, B4LR, B5LR, D2a, C=SmashWhite, E2)

My contact info is thenumbersroom@gmail.com

You're awesome! Thank you for what you do!

 

[Kadano]

Alright, do you mind adding those two modifications (B5 and B6) to my order? I tend to incorporate a lot of wavedashes into my gameplay and have had problems with the triggers on smash controllers having too much resistance

Sure, do you want them for both L and R each?

Hello Kadano! I would like
(A3, B4LR, B5LR, D2a, C=SmashWhite, E2)

My contact info is thenumbersroom@gmail.com

You're awesome! Thank you for what you do!

Thank you, taken!

 

[D E F I A N T]

I'm so sorry, would I be able to add B6LR? I forgot to include that.

 

[Kadano]

I'm so sorry, would I be able to add B6LR? I forgot to include that.

Sure, no problem!

 

[Deleted member]

Would it be possible to make the triggers like buttons (just clicky), however keeping the length the same as if they had the springs in them still?

 

[Kadano]

Would it be possible to make the triggers like buttons (just clicky), however keeping the length the same as if they had the springs in them still?

Yes, that's possible by ordering B2b0. (Digital click position elevated so that 0% of the original analog range remains).

 

[Kaoak]

Sure, do you want them for both L and R each?


Thank you, taken!

Just L, sorry!

 

[FSU_pawN]

Hey Kadano, just realized, on my order I didn't want B6LR40, but rather B5LR40. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Kadano]

Hey Kadano, just realized, on my order I didn't want B6LR40, but rather B5LR40. Sorry for the confusion.

So B5LR40 and B6LR60?

 

[SpiderMad]

I made shield drop notches and now I want to make some perfect wavedash notches. What should I know and keep in mind?

 

[FSU_pawN]

No B6 at all, I just misread the OP when i updated my order. So sorry for the mix up!

 

[j a y c e]

How long does it usually take to get a controller if I would submit an order right now?

 

[Kadano]

I made shield drop notches and now I want to make some perfect wavedash notches. What should I know and keep in mind?

Be careful, only make little changes each time before reading the values.

No B6 at all, I just misread the OP when i updated my order. So sorry for the mix up!

No problem, should be correct now.

How long does it usually take to get a controller if I would submit an order right now?

Currently, it would take about two months until I could start with your controller due to the high amount of orders lately.

 

[SpiderMad]

Be careful, only make little changes each time before reading the values.

What are the values for perfect Wavedash I should go for?

Be careful, only make little changes each time before reading the values.

What values should I be trying to go for (off of Magus' Analog Display) for the indentations I'll be going to make? Should I disregard trying to start off with your original way of doing it before Magus Display came out? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJ20lYS9bw

Oh I posted yesterday.. I didn't remember pry cus it was 5am lol

 

[MJN Pilot]

Can I order: A0 A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 A4F B2a(R) B3(L) B4(L/R) B5(R) C=JP White D8 E8

 

[Kadano]

What values should I be trying to go for (off of Magus' Analog Display) for the indentations I'll be going to make? Should I disregard trying to start off with your original way of doing it before Magus Display came out? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJ20lYS9bw

Oh I posted yesterday.. I didn't remember pry cus it was 5am lol

I go for offsets of 0.30 ideally.

Can I order: A0 A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 A4F B2a(R) B3(L) B4(L/R) B5(R) C=JP White D8 E8

Yeah sure, added to the list! Do you want a new 2008 JP White controller (80€ controller price) or used (40€ controller price)?

Oh, and also, I don't have a mod with D8 shortcode. What are you referring to with that?

 

[Esther]

Hey Kadano is it possible to get a old Pure Silver or a Black controller with a Clear Back (With Old Pre 2008 Triggers), with a Tight Stick Box (You could use one from a newer controller if can't find a older one). I would want A3, B4 (L+R), E2 (I live in Hawaii so it may be different). And then if possible get put on your priority list to get it out to me as fast as possible. What would my total cost be? Let me know, I'll see what I can do. Thanks.

 

[Kadano]

Hey Kadano is it possible to get a old Pure Silver or a Black controller with a Clear Back (With Old Pre 2008 Triggers), with a Tight Stick Box (You could use one from a newer controller if can't find a older one). I would want A3, B4 (L+R), E2 (I live in Hawaii so it may be different). And then if possible get put on your priority list to get it out to me as fast as possible. What would my total cost be? Let me know, I'll see what I can do. Thanks.

Yes, that is possible. However, if you want a tight stickbox anyway, why not go with a new Smash Black controller (and a clear back shell)? Just wondering so I know your preferences and can fine-tune the controller to that more. For example, if you prefer the older controllers because of certain properties like low snapback or something.

 

[MJN Pilot]

Yeah sure, added to the list! Do you want a new 2008 JP White controller (80€ controller price) or used (40€ controller price)?

Oh, and also, I don't have a mod with D8 shortcode. What are you referring to with that?

The new 2008 JP White controller thanks! :D
Sorry, I ment E8 haha

 

[SpiderMad]

I go for offsets of 0.30 ideally.

So go for .30 or if not exactly then the value just under or over it? .28750 is the longest wavedash? Then .2750 leads to a missed wavedash?

I've lost my mind on how I should go about making the notches using Magus analog display. I was thinking if I had a control stick with a torn off top part I could use that to just adjust my controller with my hand to the .30 value then have someone marker the right point on both the torn off stick piece's edge and on the control plate: but idk. Doing it the method you did before the Magus display seems like it might not be as accurate or best method anymore with the Magus Display? What do you currently do? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJ20lYS9bw

 

[DogSauce]

alright forget it

 

[BirdmanJR]

Is there anything I could buy for or install in my PC to make it possible for my PC with HDMI,DVI,and Displayport go to my CRT with composite inputs without lag?

 

[lalunus2]

Hey I would like to order A0, A3, B4, C= Smash White, E2

my paypal email address - benrachar@gmail.com

thank you kadano!

 

[Kadano]

Small announcement (also included in the OP):

Current status: Not open for new orders
Explanation: There is a current queue of 74 controllers. In order to be able to finish new orders on time again, I will not take any new orders until the current queue is finished. Everybody up to order #174 in the list will still be served before the re-opening.
Please do not send me messages or emails requesting for new orders to be taken. I will only take them after I announce to do so again (in this thread and on Twitter).

There are no payment issues or other problems that cause me to close for now. The only reason is so that I can completely focus on the orders that have been made already.

So go for .30 or if not exactly then the value just under or over it? .28750 is the longest wavedash? Then .2750 leads to a missed wavedash?

I've lost my mind on how I should go about making the notches using Magus analog display. I was thinking if I had a control stick with a torn off top part I could use that to just adjust my controller with my hand to the .30 value then have someone marker the right point on both the torn off stick piece's edge and on the control plate: but idk. Doing it the method you did before the Magus display seems like it might not be as accurate or best method anymore with the Magus Display? What do you currently do? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJ20lYS9bw

Yeah, .2875 is longest, and .275 is read as cardinal.

I don't use that method in the video any longer, and it's less accurate, yeah. My current method is kind of complicated, it has many steps and dependencies that I could only explain in text video form. But I don't have the time to create precise tutorials currently, there are so many people waiting for their controllers.

Is there anything I could buy for or install in my PC to make it possible for my PC with HDMI,DVI,and Displayport go to my CRT with composite inputs without lag?

Unlikely, since you get at least the 0-1 frames of random RAMDAC delay. But the DVI-I / VGA downscaling to 480i60 composite would best be done with some Extron scaling products, I expect. Visit the "perfect setups" thread in my sig for that, on one of the latest pages somebody reported about a device from Extron that does that.

Hey I would like to order A0, A3, B4, C= Smash White, E2

my paypal email address - benrachar@gmail.com

thank you kadano!

Alright, taken!

 

[SpiderMad]

Yeah, .2875 is longest, and .275 is read as cardinal.

I don't use that method in the video any longer, and it's less accurate, yeah. My current method is kind of complicated, it has many steps and dependencies that I could only explain in text video form. But I don't have the time to create precise tutorials currently, there are so many people waiting for their controllers.

Guess I'll have to wait then. Also how rare is it that my old controller's shoulder plates are attached to the board and not the back? http://i.imgur.com/CKOgJos.jpg As you can see there's no screws. Also, unlike your chart, this controller (Purple, super old, unmodified, type 2 stickbox I think), doesn't have metal bars.

Also where's that pic again where you indicate WHERE exactly to apply the silicon oil on the tube (cus I bought some)? Do I want to apply it with a Q-tip at only the opposite end of the rubber plate or throughout most of the tube?

Also I'm soon gonna put holes in the rubber mesh for X Y A and B. What types of holes do you usually chose for the face plate buttons? Many and small or large and big? I read a youtube comment that also mentioned for the rubber mesh for the digital press that you could just cut the rubber a little bit from AROUND the black metal part to decrease the resistance: only thing is I imagine that could be bad to keep it less locked in place.

Also I'm still clueless on how to get a little bit of deadzone in my modded controller's control stick to try and mimick my worn out one, which made lasering safer sort of in different ways (like not Side-b'ing as easily). The crazy casual friends I had over as a kid where the ones to make it this loose, so I have no clue how they abused it so hard.

Also I used a file to eradicate my modded controllers control stick grip ridges to mimick my worn out ones, very nice as you feel less need to let go of the stick during lasering to not feel any friction/pain.

Also I gave up on having a Control Stick on the C-stick, for Falco at least. For one, with Falco it can interfere with X to B inputs. And it just feels less accurate to use when you have to time the aerial.

So far my worn out controller is still better to use than my modded one for many reasons. The only issue is I don't want to put shield drop notches into it as I did with my modded controller: as the control stick is so loose it differs where it registers depending on where I have it leaning towards when I plug in. As well as the face plate's control stick gate is already worn and is probably what is giving me better wavedashes with it somehow from the reduced cardinal notches (though I put the plate on my modded controller for a bit and couldn't tell): but I don't wanna mess with it.

EDIT: I noticed since I made my spring even shorter, that it runs into problems with it slightly releasing itself after holding it

 

[Jhxlr8r]

How does the button depression mod work? To word that better, what exactly do you do to the controller to make that mod work?

 

[Unconventional Rhinoceros]

Kadano, if you haven't finished/worked my controller yet (I'm sitting at order 93---A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.), I was wondering if I could modify it ever so slightly.

In my description there, I gave priority to low snapback, with tight stick if possible. I'd like to reverse that -- make a tight stick with perfect back-dashes/smashturns/ledgedashes the priority and throw in low snapback if possible.

I guess if need be, I can learn to turnaround neutral b in a more controlled way, but melee isn't even fun if my character stands still every time I try to dash back.

Thanks!

 

[FSU_pawN]

Hey Kadano, sorry to change my order yet again lol, but if you haven't begun working on it, I'd really appreciate if I could remove the B7 mods. I decided I'd rather keep the normal button height for muscle memory reasons. Thanks so much!

 

[Kadano]

These controllers should not be tournament legal.
It is clear that if you use a Kadano controller you have an unfair advantage over any of the other unmodified controllers. An advantage created just from the design of the controller and not from your skill. And because they are in a limited quantity only the few players that buy them get this unfair advantage.
Whats worse is that we have top players using these controllers. How fair is that?

This is garbo for the community

See:

If you want to talk about legality, make a separate thread, don’t derail this one.

 

[Unconventional Rhinoceros]

Nevermind.

 

[Cyn]

Hey Kadano, sorry to change my order yet again lol, but if you haven't begun working on it, I'd really appreciate if I could remove the B7 mods. I decided I'd rather keep the normal button height for muscle memory reasons. Thanks so much!

This is garbo for the community

As Kadano said, please do not derail the threads here. This forum is strictly for business. If you question the "legality" or the fairness of play, I suggest you take it to a different forum. Thank you.

 

[Zarklord]

hey kadano would you be willing(not right now obviously) to do a pro controller gate mod for me? it would be just octogon gate(since its circle gate by default) A2 and A3, for main stick and octogon gate for second stick...

 

[BirdmanJR]

Are the current orders still being filled ?

 

[Kadano]

Kadano, if you haven't finished/worked my controller yet (I'm sitting at order 93---A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.), I was wondering if I could modify it ever so slightly.

In my description there, I gave priority to low snapback, with tight stick if possible. I'd like to reverse that -- make a tight stick with perfect back-dashes/smashturns/ledgedashes the priority and throw in low snapback if possible.

I guess if need be, I can learn to turnaround neutral b in a more controlled way, but melee isn't even fun if my character stands still every time I try to dash back.

Thanks!

Sorry for not responding earlier.
The problem is that I still haven't found a way to give perfect back-dash consistency, or even isolate the responsible part of the controller. So, while I can remove snapback completely now (by silicone grease lubrication), I'm afraid I'm still not able to fulfill your expectations on back-dash consistency.
I'll still keep your order in the queue though, so that if I eventually do find a way to give the perfect back-dashes or come across a controller with that property, you have a high priority spot already.

hey kadano would you be willing(not right now obviously) to do a pro controller gate mod for me? it would be just octogon gate(since its circle gate by default) A2 and A3, for main stick and octogon gate for second stick...

I'm not sure whether doing so is a good idea. The Wii U Pro Controllers' gate might have a wider range already, so further extending that by carving in a hybrid gate might cause issues.
Also, from a practical viewpoint, I neither have a Wii U nor does Smash 4 have a precise input display as far as I'm aware, so I don't know how I could check the dead zone thresholds for that game.

Are the current orders still being filled ?

Yes, they are! Sorry that I've been rather slow lately. I'll send you a PM right away.