Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

[Kadano]

Current status: No longer taking orders through Smashboards. I'm taking controller commissions through email, details are on my website: http://kadano.net/SSBM/GCC


What I offer here are functionally modified controllers. I have improved the techniques and my own skills in doing so for years and I’m quite confident in saying that, by now, I’m an expert at this.
If you think that the prices are too high, please consider that ensuring that every modification is executed perfectly and the control stick values are at just the right spots takes both time and skill. Also, with the money I receive here, you fund the informative posts and Melee Mechanics videos that I’ve been doing!

Spoiler: Feedback

For doing this, I will charge my costs for the controller (30€+ for an old controller (editions before 2008), depending on condition and rarity; 27€ for a Smash white or black one, 90€ for a new JP white (2008) one [prices for the 2008 edition have increased very much recently, I can’t get them for cheaper, unfortunately! Prices also fluctuate a lot.]), or alternatively 40€ for a used JP white 2008 controller in good condition, compensation for my time spent working on it (see list below, base fee 20€) and shipping costs to your place (see bottom of this post).
You can pay me with PayPal or bank transfer. I live in Vienna, Austria, Europe.
You can send me your order either as a reply here, as a PM or as an email to [email hidden for now].

Here is a list of modifications I can do:

A. Octagon control stick gate modifications
Blue headings denote that this modification is usually included with requests and is generally superior over others without any drawbacks.

A0. [+3€] Exchanging control stick stickbox and C-stick stickbox. This is not an octagon gate mod, but it fits in this category best.
C-stick stickboxes (T3B) have a weaker spring, so they are better for things like reverse neutral-Bs than the default control stick stickboxes (T3W). If that’s of concern to you, A0 is recommended.
Sometimes, A0 seems to improve back dash success rate, but not significantly so. Details: www.meleeitonme.com/back-dashes-smash-turns/
A0 does not seem to eliminate snapback (= getting unwanted backwards reverse inputs after pressing the stick in the opposite direction and letting go of it quickly), unfortunately. I measured several input samples consisting of 40 presses each, and all types of stickboxes I measured (T3B and T3W, both new and worn) had somewhat similar snapback rates. On average, T3W had a bit higher rate unfortunately.
If you have problems with snapback, all I can recommend to you currently is to keep your thumb on the stick knob after every press instead of letting go of it.
If you don’t want to accustom to this different thumb input method, at least for the initial month (snapback usually becomes less of a problem after wear), I recommend not opting for A0.

A1. [+24€] Adding notches for the lowest angles from the cardinal directions (±18° from mod90°). This allows for several things: max length wavedashes, Firefox / Firebird / Vanish with the lowest possible curves that still move upwards; minimum and maximum length wavedashes & airdodges; and a few other character-specific things.
24€ is the price for all eight octants of the gate. If you only want, say, the ESE and WSW notches for max-length wavedashes, you only pay for two octants (+6€). In that case, state this in your request as “A1 (ESE,WSW)”.
In general, I recommend opting for A2 instead of this one, since angles between the mod45° notches and the mod45°±18° notches will be even harder to get. If you mostly care about longest wavedashes and don’t need intermediary lengths, you might prefer this one though.

Spoiler: visual illustration (large image!)

Spoiler: actual controller with this mod (large image!)

The coloring of the notches was done back then for the modification process, I do not do this for modifications now.

A2. [+48€] Hybrid gate—current optimized controller gate. Includes ±18° notches and rounds the area between these, so you can easily get angles in between (like ±22°, for example).
48€ is the price for all eight octants of the gate. If you only want, say, the ESE and WSW notches for max-length wavedashes, you only pay for two octants (+12€). In that case, state this in your request as “A2 (ESE,WSW)” with ESE and WSW standing for the compass segments you want to have modified (ESE and WSW are for slightly below horizontal).

For a long time, I was offering two sub-types of A2, A2a and A2b. However, the former takes much longer for me to perfect and also is slightly worse altogether than A2b (because the notch readings depend more on which way you pressed from, so the threshold range isn't as precise). So from now on, I will always do A2 as A2b, which looks like in the second spoiler photo below.

Spoiler: Old text, irrelevant now

By default, I will make these notches rather hard / deep so that accidentally sliding into the cardinal areas is impossible. This will have a minor drawback: If you request A3 (shield drop notches) too, a specific thumb input will be necessary to consistently shield drop.
Because of that, I also offer making these hybrid octants more shallow and flat, so that they don’t interfere with the shield drop motion. The relevant octants for shield drops are all southern ones (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW). This second method has the code A2b, so you can combine these in any way. Price per octant (6€) is the same for A2a and A2b.

Example: A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) will make the notches on the northern half more distinct while adding those on the southern half so much as they don’t hinder shield dropping. This would cost +48€.

Spoiler: visual illustration

Spoiler: actual controller with this mod

A3. [+20€] Sung / Axe shield drop notches: I will, if necessary, slightly modify the SE and SW notch to allow reliable shield dropping with the Axe method (hold straight left / right, then quickly push the stick into the south-east or south-west notch. Usually, new controllers only work with the SW notch; if this mod is elected, I make sure that both SW and SE work reliably.)
I finish the notches properly so that on first glance, the notches look just like they do on vanilla controllers. So if it seems to you that I simply forgot to add them, please try the controller out first and see whether it shield drops well.
These shield drop notches only work in Melee. Not in Project M, not in Smash 4.

Spoiler: Actual controller with this mod

A4F. [+20€] Pivot ftilt notches: When this is elected, hybrid gate mod has to be reduced / altered somewhat. I will add in notches that allow for quick targeting to trigger a forward tilt out of smash turn and are as close to the shield drop range as possible. In other words, the shield drop notches will be expanded a bit to also function as pivot ftilt notches.
For characters that can angle their forward tilt, this will always trigger a down-angled forward tilt.

Spoiler: Actual controller with this modification + A2b + A3

A5. [+16€] Solo-dashing notches for Popo: Only Popo will dash, not Nana. Done by adding notches slightly above SE and SW, y value of -0.8. Will take longer to do since this needs to be super-accurate. When this is elected, hybrid gate mod has to be reduced somewhat.
This technique requires single value range precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.

A6. (reserved)

A7. [+16€] Ice Climbers solo-jump notches: When this is elected, I move the NE and NW notches slightly to the sides so that hitting these angles will only cause Popo to jump.
This technique requires single value precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.
A7b. Ice Climbers dash solo-jump notches: With this subtype, the main Ice Climber will dash for one frame and then jump, while the other one will only walk and not jump. This has a value range of two, so it's a bit easier to perform than the default version of A7.

A8. [+20€] Ice Climbers solo-smash notches: C-stick modification. Adds notches to the C-stick where only one Ice Climber will do a smash attack. Has two sub-types: A8a: left and up as well as right and down are fsmash, left and down is dsmash, right and up is usmash. A8b: left and down as well as right and up are fsmash, left and up is usmash, right and down is dsmash. Takes quite long to do so this is +20€.
This technique requires single value precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.

A9. [+8€] Up- and down-angled forward smash notches: C-stick modification. Adds notches to the C-stick where angled smash attacks are triggered (only with characters that have these).

B. Button modifications (shoulder and others)
B1. [+3€ per trigger] Spring removal. This eliminates lightshielding in L / R. Can be useful for powershielding, but is bad for L-cancels since they’ll interfere with airdodges and teching. Not recommended in general.

B2a. [+8€ per trigger] Constant trigger depression: This decreases the distance the shoulder triggers stick out of the controller. It makes powershields easier since the distance you have to move to reach digital press will be shorter. You can still lightshield and soft press for L-cancels. Tutorial on how to do this yourself: https://twitter.com/Kadano/status/697430340898521088
B2a is known to cause problems on Wiis and Wii Us which don't have Native Control enabled in Nintendont. On vanilla Gamecubes and Wiis or in Nintendont with Native Control enabled, B2a does not cause any problems.

B2b. [+8€ per trigger] Trigger point elevation: Inserts a spacer to decrease the amount of movement necessary until digital press. Details on how I do this mod are here (← I use a different, better method now, will document it eventually). The idea is similar to B2a, but this will elevate the digital press point instead of lowering the neutral trigger position. This is recommended if you have rather long fingers and don’t want to claw as much for pressing L / R.
By default, I keep 20% of the original analog range, so you can still soft-press L-cancel and lightshield. If you want a different percentage remaining, please specify so.

Spoiler: Pictures that show the effects of this mod, every y pixel corresponds to an analog slider value change of 1

Unmodded shoulder triggers:

B2bLR 60% (40% of the distance necessary to move to digital press will be removed, this will retain lightshield & soft-press L-cancel ability on both sides):

B3. [free] Analog slider disabling: Makes it impossible to lightshield for that trigger. Recommended if you don’t use one of them at all but press them accidentally occasionally.

B4. [+1€ per trigger] Silicon oil application onto the inner tube: Recommended with Smash logo controllers. These tend to have triggers that get stuck; lubing the tubes with special silicon oil often helps to remove this problem.

B5. [+2€ per trigger or button] Click resistance decreasing: Decreases the amount of force necessary to trigger a digital shoulder button press by perforating the rubber plates. This will also make L / R digital presses more silent. Recommended for powershields. Should also cause less finger strain. By default, I will decrease click resistance to about 60%; if you want more or less, specify please. (For example B5L70R10 if you want 70% of original click resistance on L and only 10% on R.)
Can also be done for ABXY buttons (12€ in total if you want all rubber plate buttons (ABXYLR)).
How to do this yourself

B6. [+2€ per trigger] Spring resistance decreasing: Removes a part of the spring (a fifth to a third, specify with B6LRZ70 if you want 70% spring length on both L, R and Z, for example) to reduce analog spring force. This will decrease the amount of force necessary to pass through the analog L / R press zone or to get to the digital Z click. Can make powershields slightly easier (only for L and R of course).


B7. [+15€ per button] Button height decreasing: Recommended for the Y button if you do inputs on it in a “sliding” way. Here’s a photo comparison that shows the difference this mod makes:

C. Controller types and colors
I always offer these three base models for the controller: Smash White (35€), Smash Black (35€), used JP 2008 White (40€). The Smash edition controllers you receive will be completely new and unused (except for the amount necessary to test whether the modifications work properly). JP White 2008 edition controllers are mostly used, but in good, slightly to moderately broken in condition.
If you don't care about the color, I recommend Smash White, since these are the cheapest and the gate mods are barely visible on lighter textures.
All of the above only have type 3 stickboxes, so in case your stickbox ever is too worn out to function well, you can easily screw in a replacement (from a Wii Classic Controller, for example).

Other controller colors that aren't always available:
Controllers with the potentiometer oddity that causes high smash turn rate (different colors – old black, purple, Platinum Pearl White, JP 2008 white, Emerald Blue: 30-60€ base price depending on condition. Will update this as I measure my current used stock.
Current stock: 10 Smash White
12 Smash Black
14 used JP 2008 white
1 unused old black (50€)
2 used old black (30€)
4 Platinum
1 Pearl White (45€)
1 Emerald Blue
1 Spice Orange
1 HORI Red (large edition, has original Mitsumi T3 stickboxes)

Currently ordered from Japan: 1 Smash White

You can also send in your own controller for modifications, but unless you live in Europe you’ll hardly save anything over buying a new controller from me since oversea shipping is ~20€.

D. Extra parts / parts removal
D1. [+3€] Control-stick-type stick knob (third party), replaces C-stick. Useful for thenar grip (doing aerials with the bottom part of your thumb on the C-stick). Your original C-stick knob will be in the box too, of course.

D2. [+2€] Rumble motor deactivation: D2a desolders the rumble so that it will never activate, but keeps it in for weight. D2b removes the motor entirely, decreasing controller weight.

R. Button remapping
R1. [+8€ per re-mapped button, +15€ per analog/digital conversion remapping] Assigns a physical button to a different in-game button press. I can also assign light-press L / R to digital inputs or digital buttons to specific analog inputs. This is a bit more expensive because more work is involved. Note that digital→analog inputs will only work if the control stick is in neutral position while pressing the button.
Specify in this way: R1[light press R press causes Z input, A press causes Y input]

S. Snapback removal
S1. [+8€] Snapback removal by silicone grease lubrication. Due to drifting problems, I will not offer this mod any longer. Original description for archival purposes:

Spoiler

Solves the problem of aerial neutral-B going in the wrong direction after strong left / right flick inputs. By default, I only lubricate the control stick box, but if you specify that you also want the C-stick lubed (S1C), I can do that too.
Silicone grease lubrication decreases the force with which the stick returns to neutral position. Pivots can still be performed without problems, however there is a side effect in that the wobbly noise that usually happens with snap inputs is gone, so your stick will be more silent. Very small movements from neutral cause a minimal squishy noise and feeling, but in my opinion I don't think anyone will be bothered by this.
In Smash 4, this mod makes the "perfect pivot" technique consistent and eliminates the risk of turning around twice accidentally.
I offer S1 in three different amounts:
S1a, which consists of only one time of greasing. This lowers the rate of neutral-B going off into the wrong direction down to about 1 in 40, so it still happens sometimes, just much less frequently. However, the stick will return to neutral almost as quickly as with an ungreased stickbox, making it less unusual for you to use the controller. (This is only recommended if you don't like the slower return of the control stick shown in the post linked at the bottom of this paragraph.)
S1b, for which I grease two times, keeping the physical snapback consistently below the dead zone thresholds. This is the amount I recommend to default to, since the stick will still be somewhat fast (return from full extension to neutral in about 12 ms), but also never trigger the neutral B in the wrong direction.
S1c, triple greasing. Physical snapback is eliminated completely. This amount of grease should last forever, however the control stick takes about 16 ms to return from full extension into the dead zone, so if you input a move within one frame after the end of your thumb's flick input, it could cause accidental side-Bs (still very unlikely to happen, but not completely impossible). Also, the amount of added mushy sound (see post linked below) is most present with this amount of grease.
Details and tutorial on how to do this yourself: http://smashboards.com/threads/tech...ers-tvs-recording.335040/page-6#post-21375815

S2. [+15€] Snapback removal by capacitor insertion. Does a similar job as the silicone grease lubrication, but alters the electrical behavior instead of the physical behavior, so the sounds of the controller stay the same.
I do this by soldering two female jumper wires to the horizontal potentiometer of the control stick. Into these two female plugs, I insert the smallest capacitor that I measured to be necessary for eliminating in-game snapback on this controller (with a Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope). I also include 2-5 replacement capacitors in case the physical snapback increases with controller usage (this happens sometimes), depending on how many and which I have in stock currently.
Example photograph:
Due to the capacitor being mechanically connected, without solder, you can easily replace the capacitor or remove it, with the only necessary tool being a Triwing screwdriver.
The only known downside to this mod is that the capacitor won't be fully charged by the time the initial calibration happens. This means that the controller will slightly drift to the right when plugged into the console. By resetting with X+Y+Start, you get it to calibrate correctly. This needs to be done every time you plug the controller in.
On Dolphin and Wii U, calibration happens at a slightly later point, so it works correctly right after plugging in there, without needing any X+Y+Start re-calibration.



E. Shipping
North America (USA and Canada):
E1. Standard shipping, USA: 10-15 days, 17€
E2. Priority shipping, USA: 7-9 days, 20€ [recommended]


Table for ordering more than one controller at once:

Shipping type|Expected time|Controller amount|Price
Standard|14-16 days|1-2|17€
Priority|10-14 days|1-2|20€

Standard|14-16 days|3-4|20€
Priority|10-14 days|3-4|26€

Standard|14-16 days|5-6|26€
Priority|10-14 days|5-6|40€



Australia:
E4, Standard shipping, Australia: 7-12 days, 22€
E5, Priority shipping, Australia:4-6 days, 27€ [recommended]

Europe:
E7. Standard shipping, EU1: 5-10 days, 10€, not trackable
E8. Priority shipping, EU1: 2-7 days, 15€ [recommended]

Japan:
E10. Standard shipping, Japan, 6-10 days, 18€ (+7€ for value declaration and insurance)
E11. Priority shipping, Japan, 4-6 days, 22€ (maybe +7€ for value declaration, not sure yet)
E11b. Priority shipping for 3+ controllers, Japan, 4-6 days, 24€ (maybe +7€ for value declaration, not sure yet)


I cannot guarantee that your controller will pass customs. The above times are as quoted by my post office, but not guaranteed unfortunately.

Magus420 donations
Offering the A1-A3 mods with the high accuracy I do them at is only possible because Magus released his physics and input display.
Magus420 has done incredible things for the Smash community, and I feel he is horribly underpaid. So I regularly donate 100+$ to him from the profit I make here.
If you do the A1-A3 mods yourself using his tool, it would be kind of you to donate what you can afford to him through PayPal. He disclosed his account here: http://smashboards.com/threads/physics-input-etc-display-in-develop-mode.391956/#post-18650007
_____________________________________
Please list all the modifications you wish for. Example:
A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2aR, B4R, B5R, C=Smash White, D1, E1

Price for the above would be 25(controller) +20(base fee) +12(A2b/4) +10(A3) +8(B2aR) +2(B4LR) +2(B5R) +3(D1) = 82€, plus 17€ shipping to US = 99€.

The prices are subject to change, as I still have to find an average for the time of work each modification takes. If the prices increase after the moment you send me the money, you will of course pay the old prices, not the new increased ones.

I ask you for the money as soon as I’m finished with your controller! No need to pay me before that, unless you want to make sure that I can send out the controller as soon as possible. (I live in Europe, so for most of you my post office is open while you are asleep.)


Ordering process:
1. Tell me in this thread, in a separate smashboards message or an email (not possible at the moment) which mods you want (in the format shown above). For the latter two options, please also provide me your PayPal account’s email address from the start so I can send you the invoice there.
2. When I can start to work on your controller, I’ll send you a PM (or email) about the total price and order status (which is just the total of the mod prices you requested). For PayPal orders, I will send you the price list as a PayPal invoice that you can pay from there directly.
3. You send me the money through the PayPal invoice or bank transfer (I give you the numbers via email if you want to pay that way). If you want express shipping, please also include a phone number or email address where you will respond quickly to the delivery guys.
4. I finish the controller, ship it and send you the tracking link within two calendar weeks. With your controller, I will include a controller grading sheet with a list of all notch values and the modifications you ordered.
_____________________________________
Current order for submissions ( = completed and sent):
1. garrR paid & received
2. NMW / Shriek paid & received
3. Armada / Android paid & received (A3, C=Smash White)
4. Axe paid & received (A3, B4, C=Smash White)
5. Kyu Puff paid & received (A3*, A5b, B3LR, B4LR, B5LR, B6L, as well as any other ICs-specific things you can implement *may need to be more precise than normal to ensure both ICs shield drop (?) C=Smash White (base price 22€)
6. Spaghetti, paid & received (A3 A5 B5LR B6LR, C=Smash White (base price 22€))
7. Reeve paid & received (A3, B3L, B4L, B5L, B6L, JP White)
8a. hectohertz paid & sent controller 1: A2b (WSW,ESE), A3, A4F, B3R, B5LR, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2
8b. hectohertz paid & sent controller 2: A3, A4F, B3R, B5LR, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2
9. Mew2king paid & received (A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any (weak control stick spring that’s sensitive downward))
10. sincerazero paid & received (A2b (all 8 octants), A3, B2b, B3L, B4, C=any new one, E2)
11. KoopaTroopa895 paid & received (A0, A2 (all 8 octants), A3, B4LR, C=JP, E1)
12. edmund-blake-nelson paid & received (A2 A3 C= Smash White E1)
13. Icefights paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP white)
14. neoshinryu [stopped responding] (A0, A3, B4R, B5R, C = Smash white, E2 [total price: 83€ including shipping]
15. LL.DL paid & received (A3, B2bLR, C=JP white, D1, E1) [total price: 95€ including shipping]
16. ck800 paid & received (A0, A2a \ A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B3R, E2, C=JP White) [total price: 130€ including shipping]
17. TC123 paid & received (A0, A3, B4L, B7Y, C: Smash White, E2) [total price: 89€]
18. Ganobrator (A3, B4LR, B5R, C=JP White, E1) [total price: 84€]
19. MrYaah paid & received (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, A9, B2bRL, B3R, B4, B5LRABY, B6LR, B7Y, C=SB, D1, D2, E2) [total price: 192€]
20. Forte4Tei 1 paid & received (A0, A2b (eight octants) A3, B2bLR, B4(LR) B5(R), JP white, E5)
21. Forte4Tei 2 paid & received (A0, A3 B4(LR) B5(R), JP white, E5) [total price for both: 230€]
22. D-Leo paid & sent (A3, A4F, B5RY, B7Y, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2) [total price: 106€]
23. King Funk paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP White, D2b, E7) [total price: 75€]
24. BrTarolg paid & received (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B1R, B7(y button), D2a, E8, C=JP white) [total price: 145€]
25. Kesa paid & received (A3, B2bL, B4LR, B5L, B6L,C=JP White,E8) [total: 83€]
26. Sergio91 paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP, E1) [total: 140$ as agreed on]
27. XVI paid & received (A2a (ENE,WNW,NNE,NNW,SSE,SSW) A2b (ESE,WSW), A3,B2bL,B3R,B4L,B5L60,B5Y60,B6L,C=JP,E1) [total: 144€]
28. Tafokints paid & received (A0, A2a, A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=SW, E2) [total: 200$ agreed on]
29. Leffen (no reply, never specified his modification list)
30. Vegard paid & received (A2a, A3, B6L, E7, C=SW) [total: 120€]
31. Flippy Flippersen paid & received (A0 A3 B4 C = JP white E8) [total: 80€]
32. AZ Neon paid & received (A0 A2A(ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) A2B(ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 B4(L,R) B5(L) B7(Y) C=JP White E1)
33. Jeezus_ paid & received (A0, A3, B4 (Both triggers) B5, C=JP White) [total: 86€+shipping]
34. SwiftBass paid & sent (A0, A3, B2B C=Japan white)
35. BootyBlast paid & received (A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LRABY, C=JP, E8)
36. Kounotori paid & received 1 (C=Clear/gold (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B2bR, B3R, B5LRBY, B6R50, B7YA, E11b)
37. Kounotori paid & received 2 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R, B5B50Y80)
38. Kounotori paid & received 3 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R, B5B50)
39. Kounotori paid & received 4 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R)
40. DaRkStRiDeR2 #1 paid & received (priority order)
41. DaRkStRiDeR2 #2 paid & received (priority order)
42. SaltySethSSBM paid & received (priority order)(A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, B7Y, C = Smash White, D2a, E2)
43. beld: paid & received (A2b (ESE,WSW) A3 B3L,C=Smash White, E7) [total: 30€ (gift / only pays for controller and shipping)]
44. R reverie2 paid & sent (PM sent at 19:15 GMT) (A0,A2,A3,B2bLR,B4LR,B5LR,B6LR,B7Y,C=JP white,E2)
45. JarJarBinks paid & sent (replied at 19:16 GMT) (A0, A2b (ESE, WSW), A2a (all other octants), A3, B2bLR, B4, B5LRABX, B6LR, C=Smash White, E2)
46. SSBM_AEON paid & received (PM sent at 19:18 GMT)
47. R3N0 paid & received (Twitter DM sent at 20:33 GMT) (a0 A3 B2BR B4LR B5R B6R C=any new E2)
48. crush paid & sent [2015-11-16,3:00GMT](A0, A2b (all 8 octants), A3, B5R60, B6R70, C (old controller with less control stick resistance preferred), D2B, E1)
49. whatwhatwhatwhatwhat paid & sent [2015-11-16,3:09GMT](A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2bLR, B5ABXYLR, B6LR70, B7X, C=JP White, D2b, E3), priority requested
50. Mystic [2015-11-16,3:23GMT](A0 A2a A3 B2b LR B4 LR B5 (R, Y, B, L, A) B6 (LR) B7Y C= JP White E2)
51. grayfox paid & sent [2015-11-16,4:51GMT] (A0, A3, C=smash white, E8)
52. AlexThe13th [2015-11-16,6:34GMT](A0,A3,B5LY, C=JP White, E2)
53. Vanitas paid & sent (C=SW front, SB back;A3,A4F,A7,A8,B5L)
54. Hoodcash_ paid & sent (A0, A3, B1L, C=any, D2b, E1)
55. Ambisinister (A0, a2b (all octants), A3, B4LR (free), B5LR65 (both triggers), C=JP white, E1)
56. no1knows87 paid & sent (A1, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2a, B5ABXYLR, B6LR70, B7Y, C=JP White, D2b, E2)
57. MikeHaggarTHAKJB (A1 (ESE,WSW), A3, A4D,B3 on R,B4, B6 on L, D2B)
58. LuCKy (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW) A3, B2bL, B5L60, B6L, C=JP White, D2b, E1)
59. loci paid & sent (A3, B4, C=Smash Black, E2)
60. Liam_Butler [A2a All octants A3 A5 A7 A8b B2b (left trigger) B4 (left trigger) C-Smash White D2A E1 (Note: This will be primarily used for Ice Climbers, so if that changes any of the mods, or there's something IC exclusive I missed, please let me know)]
61. clowsui 2*(A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, A4F, B2bL, B5, B6, C=SBlack, D2, E2)
62. Suidt paid & sent ((A0, A2B (ESE,WSW) A3, B5, B6, C=SmashBlack, D2b, E2; priority treatment requested)
63. Trip paid & sent (A0, A2a, A3, C Smash Black, E8)
64. Twinkles paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B4LR, C=Smash white, E1)
65. Boone paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE,WNW,NNE,NNW), 2b (ESE,WSW,SSE,SSW), A3, A4F, A9, B2aL, B4L, B5A50B50Y50L50, B6L50, B7Y, C=Smash Black, D2b, E2)
66. Linney (A0 / A1 (All but ESE,WSW) / A2b (ESE,WSW) / A3,B1L / B3 / B4,C=JP White,D2b,E8)
67. Eddyvon (A2a eight notches, a3, a4f c=jp white, D2b, E1)
68. Gene Parmesan paid & sent (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW), A3, B5L60, C= JP white, E2) (priority treatment requested)
69. ssbm_silence (A2B, A3, D2B, E1, c=used controller(preferably indigo))
70. Windrose paid & sent (A0, A2b (all), A3, A9, B2b(LR), B4, B5 (ABXYLR and z if possible), B6 (LR70), B7 (Y), C = smash white), E2), priority treatment requested
71. @vinceprinceking (A3, B4(LR), B5LR70, B6LR70 C=JP White, E7 (to germany))
72. @GhettoTastic paid & received (A0,A2(S),A3,A4F,B4LR,C=(used), priority treatment requested)
73. @FLiiNcHy (A1 (ESE,WSW),A3 Shield Drop Notches,B1R,C=JP white [but Smash black front and silver back plate])
74. @KirbyKaze paid & sent (A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR80, C=Smash Black)
75. @Druggedfox paid & received (A3, B1R, C = smash black, E1)
76. @FirePhoenix55 (A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any (weak control stick spring that’s sensitive downward))
77. Brian (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 B4 (L, R) B5 (L, R, Y, B) B7Y, C=SW, D2b)
78. Miguel (A0, A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=SW, E7)
79. @tonic paid & sent (A2b (S), A3, B2b (L), B4 (LR), B5 (LR), B6 (LR, 70),C = Used (Only if JP White), otherwise Smash Black, E2 (Priority Shipping))
80. @Low5_ paid & sent (C=SW, A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B1R, B2bL, B4, B5LR60, B6L70, D2, E3) (priority treatment because I forgot to contact him even though I promised to do so)
81. @Haywire5714 paid & sent (A3, B2aLR, B4LR, C=Smash White, E1)
82. @Pluplue 1 paid & received (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB, E2)
83. @Pluplue 2 paid & received (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
84. @Pluplue 3 paid & received (A0, A1, A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
85. @kmgamer paid & sent (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW);b2bLR 40%,B4LR,B6 for Z, C=SB, D1, D2, E2)
86. @Wizzrobe paid & received (A3, B1R, B3R, B6L, C=Black (old), E2)(priority treatment because I forgot to contact him even though I promised to do so)
87. @Impade paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2aL, B4, B6, C=Smash White, D1, E8)
88. @AGuacworkOrange (A3, B4L, B5L, C=SB, E2)
89. @FuddyDuddy paid & sent (A0,A2b(ESE, WSW),A3,B1R,B4RL,B5RXY,B6L80,D2a,C=Whichever of new ones is fastest,E2)
90. @Berble (A0, A3, B1R, C = JP white, E2)
91. @nugget61 paid & sent (A0,A2b,A3,B4lr,B5r,C=Black (Smash or good condition old),D2b)
92. @Shmooguy paid & sent (A3, B2aL, B4L, B5L70, C=Smash Black/White, D2b, E1)
93. @Unconventional Rhinoceros (A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.)
94. @skips paid & sent (A3,B4LR,B5LR 60,B6LR 70,C = JP White (if available), otherwise Smash Black or Smash White,E2 (Canada))
95. Vestboy_Myst (A0 A3 B2bLR B4LR B5L80R80 E1, C = used but as mint as possible / JP white)
96. @Wizzrobe paid & sent (A3, B1R, B3R, B6L, C=Smash Black, E2)
97. @Alvin Cheong paid & sent (A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=Smash White, E2)
98. @Gr33ns (A0, A1, A3, B1R, b2b, B3(right), B4, B5(left), B7(Y) C= Sm4sh white, E2)
99. @VentusSSBM (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) ,A3, B2a R , B4 r, B5 r, B7, Y, C= Smash white)
100. @Krizski paid & sent (A2, A3, B2aLR, B4, B7Y, C=SW + smooth ridges,E2)
101. @MHTak (A0, A3, B4R, B4L, C=JP White, E8)
102. @eet (A3, B2b(R), B4, C= Smash White, E2)
103. @MultipLe (contacted through email) (A3, B4, C=SW, E2)
104. Andrew M. (contacted through email) (A2a (ESE, WSW), A3, B4, C=SW and E2)
105. @Darkseid395 paid & sent (A0, A2(ESE,WSW),A3,B1R,B4LR,B5LR60,C=SB, priority treatment requested, E2)
106. @Chrozon (A0,A3,B4LR,C=SW,E8)
107. (88.5) @TimeMuffinPhD paid & sent (2*SW, 2*A2b, 2*A3, 2*B5(ABXYLR), 1*(B7Y), 1*(B4LR,D2b), E8)
108. Fiona C. paid & received (A3, B4L, C=SB,E8)
109. PatSheezy / @TrenchFoot paid & received (A0, A3, B4LR, C=Smash Black, D2b E8)
110. Michael D. (Email) paid & sent (A3, C=SW,E1)
111. @Gahtzu paid & sent (A0, A3, B1R, B4L, B4R, B5L, C=SB (if u still have black), E3, priority treatment requested)
112. @Imyt paid & sent (A0,A3,B2b,B3L,B4R,B5ABXYLR,B6R,C=SB)
113. Griffin W. (Email) / @Captain Faceroll paid & sent (A0, A3, B4LR, B5R, C=any/fastest/black), E2)
114. @advanced (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B7Y,C - Silver controller, the least snapback as possible (i laser a lot),E2)
115. @BirdmanJR (C=old original gamecube black controller, A3,B2bLR,B3R,B4L,B5L,B5ABXYLR,B6L,B7XY)
116. @Schwiftyyy (A0, A3, B2bR, B3R, B4LR, B5R, B6L70, B7Y, C=Smash White, E8)
117. Charles-A. (A3, B1L, B3L, B4, B5ABY60, B6Z80, C=Smash White, (E2 or E8))
118. @Endeby (A0, A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6L, C=SW, E8 (Norway))
119. Alex S. (C=Smash,A0,A2b,A3,B2bLR,B4LR,B5ABRY,B7Y,D2a,E5)
120. Daniel B. / Dragon (A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,C=SW,E8)
121. Sesh E.
122. @Icefights
123. @MaPow (C=Smash/any, A2b(ESE,WSW),A3,B1R,B3R,D1,D2b, E2)
124. Professor Pro (Email) (A3,B4LR,B5L70,B7Y,C=SB,E8)
125. @darkatma 1 (email)(A3, B4LR, B5R, C=smash white, E2)
126. @darkatma 2 (email)(A3, B4LR, B5R, C=smash black, E2)
127. @HugS™ paid & sent (A3, B2a, A0, A stiff but not Smash 4 controller, a cheap used controller preferred but if possible not orange, anything but that please!)
128. @Atrioc {email} (A2, A3, A4F, B2bR B4R, B5R70, C=SB, E2)
129. Colbol {email} (A3, B4LR, B7Y, C=SB, E2; possibly A0 depending on new measurement results)
130. @Didact25 (A0,A3, B2a(LR), B4(LR), B5L70,B7Y, C=Smash+clear front shell (sent in),E2)
131. Oppa / Heyden T. (email) (A0,A2b(S),A3,C=SW,E2)
132. @Mahie (A3, low snapback (need to do some more research on it))
133. Tyler V. (email) (A0,A2b,A3,A4F,B2bLR,B4LR,B5LRABXY,B6LRZ,B7AY+extra A button,C=JP 08 white new [60-80€],D2a)
134. Kevin W. (email) (A0,A3,B4LR,B5L,C=Smash(any),E2)
135. Jeromy H. (email) (A0,A2b(ESE,WSW),A3, B4LR,C=Smash(any),E2)
136. @FSU_pawN (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B4LR, B5LR40, B7BY, C = SW, E2)
137. Samuel D. (email) (A0, A2a (ENE,WNW), A3, B3 (FOR R TRIGGER ONLY), B4 (FOR L TRIGGER ONLY), B5L70 (no R adjustment), B7 (Y button height decrease), C (Smash white/any, back dashes consistently w/o exaggerated press, looser stick preferred but still sensitive down in particular), E4 standard shipping (Australia))
138. @Felerian / Martin H. (email) (A3,B4LR,B5LR,B7Y,C=[low snapback, triggers not getting stuck],E8)
139. David A. (email) paid & sent (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bR0,B4LR,B5R,B6LR, priority treatment requested , E5)
140. Daniel P. @Telsar (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3, B2bR, B4LR, B5RX, B6R70, D1, D2b, C=SW, E2)
141. Luke P. (email) (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bL30R0, B5LRABX)
142. @Tr1F0rc3 paid & sent (A0, A2 (ESE, WSW), A3, B1L B2bR, B4R, B5R, B6R, priority treatment requested)
143. @Logos (A3, C=Smash White,E2)
144. @Kyball (A0,A3,B5ABXY,B7Y,C=Smash Black,E2)
145. Susan O. (email) (A2a,A3,B2aR,C=old black or white)
146. @i4n (A0,A2b(ESE,WSW),A3,B4LR,B5LABXY,D2b,C=SB,E2)
147. @Pluplue 4 (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
148. @Pluplue 5 (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
149. @ElRudo (A2b,A3,A9,B2bR30,B4,B5ABYLR,B6RZ70,B7BY,C=JP08(used),E1)
150. @Eliitti (A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2bLR40, B4LR, B5LR50, B6LRZ60, C=Smash Black or White, E8)
151. @Smooth_One (A3,B5R,C=[unspecified],E1]
152. @Samio25 (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bL, B4LR, B5L, C=Smash Black, D2b, E8)
153. @Swayko paid & sent (A0, A3, B4L, B7Y, C smash white, priority treatment requested)
154. @Fugus (A0,A2b (ESE,WSW),A3,B4R,B5R60,B6R70,C=Smash (any),D2,E2 [Canada])
155. @dooweey (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW) A3, B2bL, B5L60, B6L, C=Smash Black, D2b, E1)
156. @Advanced_Darkness (A0, A2b, A3, C=smash black front / Clear back, E2)
157. @ElCancell 1 paid & sent [A3, A4F, B4LR, B5R, C=SW, E2, priority treatment fee paid]
158. @ElCancell 2 paid & sent [A3, B2bR60, B4(LR), B5(A70)(B70)(X70)(L70)(R70), B6(Z), B7(X) A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A4F, C=SB, E2, priority treatment fee paid]
159. Jullian C. (email) (A2b "ESE,WSW", A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any with weak control stick spring that's sensitive downward, E2)
160. @Zorc Of Norway [email provided] (A3,C=SW,E8)
161. @ArcNatural [email provided] (A3 B4LR B5LR B7Y CSB E2)
162. @Charlezard [email provided] (A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,B6LR70,C=SB,D2a,E2)
163. @chokingvictim3 (A2b (full), A3, B2bR, B3R, B5LRBY, B6R50, B7YA,C - Pearl White [bought for 40€],E2)
164. @Killopotamus (A3 B3L C= Platinum/Silver D2A E2)
165. @Kaoak (A3 B4, B5L,B6L, S1, C=Any with a high dash back success rate and low control stick resistance)
166. @D E F I A N T [email address given] (A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, D2a, C=SmashWhite, E2)
167. @unknown522 (A0, A3, B4 (L Button), B5 (A, B, Y), C=SB,E2 (Canada))
168. @illwill132 (A3, B2bL, B6L, C=Smash Black, E2)
169. @link2213 [email address given] (A0, A3, B2aR, B4R, C=SB, E2)
170. @SpaceWaste7 (A2 (ESE,WSW), C=Pearl White / high stick spring resistance, E2)
171. @amidaes 2*(A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW),A3,B5L60R10,B6L70,B7X,C = whatever is fastest,D1,E3)
172. @MJN Pilot ( A0 A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 A4F B2a(R) B3(L) B4(L/R) B5(R) C=JP White (new 80€) E8)
173. @lalunus2 [email address given] (A0, A3, B4, C= Smash White, E2)
174. @MrLui (A3, B2aL, B4, C=Smash Black, E2)
175. Thomas B. (Facebook, exception – I don't generally take orders from FB) (A3, B4LR,B5R,C=SW,E8)

 

[Vestboy_Myst]

incoming order

 

[MrYaah]

A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, A9, B2bRL, B3R, B4, B5LRABY, B6LR, B7Y, C=(any with weak control stick spring), D1, D2, E2

 

[Kadano]

A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bL, B4, B5LABYZ, B6L, B7Y, C=(any with weak control stick spring), D1, E2

I added your request to the list, however I don’t know a way to decrease Z click resistance (B5Z) yet. I’ll try to find a way, but I think it’s unlikely.
Also, for the controller, I will simply give you a JP white or Smash white if that’s okay with you, as their C-stickboxes have relatively weak springs already.

 

[MrYaah]

I added your request to the list, however I don’t know a way to decrease Z click resistance (B5Z) yet. I’ll try to find a way, but I think it’s unlikely.
Also, for the controller, I will simply give you a JP white or Smash white if that’s okay with you, as their C-stickboxes have relatively weak springs already.

ooh, dont bother with z in that case. controller choice sounds good ill trust your judgement. Also its Yaah not Yeah

 

[Kadano]

Oh, so sorry for misspelling your name. I corrected it in the list.

By the way, thanks for stickying this thread, whoever it was!

 

[BrTarolg]

Hi there!

A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B7(y button), D2a, E8

 

[Kadano]

Hi there!

A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B7(y button), D2a, E8

Hey. You didn’t specify a controller type, so I’m assuming you’re fine with any new one?

 

[BrTarolg]

Oh woops, import JP one please! (not sm4sh)

Can you confirm that the sm4sh ones have somewhat of a harder time with reverse needles because of snapback?

Also i'd like to add A0 to the order if possible thanks

 

[Kadano]

Oh woops, import JP one please! (not sm4sh)

Can you confirm that the sm4sh ones have somewhat of a harder time with reverse needles because of snapback?

Also i'd like to add A0 to the order if possible thanks

C=JP and A0 added. I can’t confirm that yet because I never practiced reverse B with either. But when I get the next shipment, I can analyze / compare the sticks between JP white and Smash white with the tools I have at hand.

 

[Pauer]

What's the difference in effect between B1 and B3?
Edit: just the feel of it?

 

[Kadano]

What's the difference in effect between B1 and B3?
Edit: just the feel of it?

B1 merely removes the spring, so the grey shoulder trigger will no longer stick out by default. The analog input is still active, but the new low default position will be treated as default by the game. So effectively, the analog input is software-disabled.
B3 pushes the grey shoulder trigger latching below the potentiometer rod so they no longer lock into each other. This hardware-disables the analog input.

When using Nintendont or Dolphin without Direct Connect, B3 works properly while B1 will lightshield all the time.

 

[BrTarolg]

Oh yeah also, i'm happy to pay now if it means my one gets sent out sooner/priority :D

 

[-ACE-]

Adding notches to the controller for perfect wavedashes? I don't really care tbh, but has anyone asked about the legality of this?

 

[Kadano]

Oh yeah also, i'm happy to pay now if it means my one gets sent out sooner/priority :D

Sure, I added your total to the list!

Adding notches to the controller for perfect wavedashes? I don't really care tbh, but has anyone asked about the legality of this?

As far as I know, the only major series that had these banned was Genesis 1 & 2. Genesis 3 ruleset is not available yet.

 

[BrTarolg]

Haha one last thing, pls remove the spring on the r button ^^

Shall i pay now? need to give you details for where to send or address or anything?

 

[myK]

This is cool and all but I think tournaments are going to start implementing rules on controller modifications like this. I'm sure it makes things a bit easier but still providing an unfair advantage. (Not saying I believe so, just writing what I think we'll see.) I've seen it in CSGO local tournaments with hardware mods to make scroll extra fast etc.

 

[Kadano]

Haha one last thing, pls remove the spring on the r button ^^

Shall i pay now? need to give you details for where to send or address or anything?

I can do this for sure, but are you aware that this will make it impossible to soft-press L-cancel with R? In my experience, the combination of B2b, B3 (if you really don’t need soft press with R at all), B4, B5 and B6 is much more comfortable than just removing the spring (B1) and accomplishes mostly the same (no accidental light shielding, reliable powershields even with somewhat slow pressing.

This is cool and all but I think tournaments are going to start implementing rules on controller modifications like this. I'm sure it makes things a bit easier but still providing an unfair advantage. (Not saying I believe so, just writing what I think we'll see.) I've seen it in CSGO local tournaments with hardware mods to make scroll extra fast etc.

That’s possible, but this thread is not for legality discussion, it’s for meeting the demand for reliable controllers that obviously exists.

A controller with the A0, A3, B4 and B5 mods is entirely within the technical variation range of vanilla controllers, and also impossible to tell apart from an unmodded controller. So the rule you speak of would either have to be very in-depth and specific, or ridiculous and impossible to enforce.

 

[Sergio91]

A0, A3, C=JPN WHITE

Let me know how much and can pay today

 

[reverie2]

do the ctrl stick modifications make fox ledge dashing easier?

 

[Kadano]

A0, A3, C=JPN WHITE

Let me know how much and can pay today

I will need location and shipping specification for you in order to calculate the total price.

do the ctrl stick modifications make fox ledge dashing easier?

Yes, especially A0 and A2. It will be easier to get max-length ledgedashes especially, but to show the benefits in detail, I need to do a lot of research and effort to document it properly.
For Sheik, I’m about 20% finished with this process, so ledgedashing information for her will be published in about 4-5 days.

 

[Sergio91]

I will need location and shipping specification for you in order to calculate the total price./QUOTE]

USA and Standard shipping ill pm more info if needed

USA and Standard shipping ill pm more info if needed

sorry for double post ive never used this site before

 

[myK]

I can do this for sure, but are you aware that this will make it impossible to soft-press L-cancel with R? In my experience, the combination of B2b, B3 (if you really don’t need soft press with R at all), B4, B5 and B6 is much more comfortable than just removing the spring (B1) and accomplishes mostly the same (no accidental light shielding, reliable powershields even with somewhat slow pressing.


That’s possible, but this thread is not for legality discussion, it’s for meeting the demand for reliable controllers that obviously exists.

A controller with the A0, A3, B4 and B5 mods is entirely within the technical variation range of vanilla controllers, and also impossible to tell apart from an unmodded controller. So the rule you speak of would either have to be very in-depth and specific, or ridiculous and impossible to enforce.

Trust me I know, I like what you're doing here. I may purchase one for myself! I just wanted to shout out a small warning.

 

[Vegard]

Yoo. Just read this thread, could I please order one of these?


I want
A1
A2a
A3
B6. (only L trigger)

I can pay you and all that after you eventually confirm if this is possible

Edit: Address: Oslo, Norway. Shipping: Cheapest option.

 

[Kadano]

Yoo. Just read this thread, could I please order one of these?


I want
A1
A2a
A3
B6. (only L trigger)

I can pay you and all that after you eventually confirm if this is possible

Edit: Address: Oslo, Norway. Shipping: Cheapest option.

A2a will include A1, in fact it’s like A1 but better. So I will only take A2a into the list. Do you want A2a for all 8 octants? Doing so is mostly useful for Fox, Falco and Sheik; in general for characters with full directional up-B control. Example:

Here, A2a(NNE) was useful, but for characters like Marth you’d never use it so it’d be just wasted money.

Everything else works fine too of course, I added you to the list.

 

[BrTarolg]

I can do this for sure, but are you aware that this will make it impossible to soft-press L-cancel with R? In my experience, the combination of B2b, B3 (if you really don’t need soft press with R at all), B4, B5 and B6 is much more comfortable than just removing the spring (B1) and accomplishes mostly the same (no accidental light shielding, reliable powershields even with somewhat slow pressing.

I already play without a spring on the r button cause i l-cancel with the other one

It's just my preference

I could also just remove the spring myself haha

 

[Vegard]

Sounds good! I main Fox so yea, include all octans.

 

[Kadano]

I already play without a spring on the r button cause i l-cancel with the other one

It's just my preference

I could also just remove the spring myself haha

Hehe, okay understood.

Sounds good! I main Fox so yea, include all octans.

Alright!

 

[Virusbleumage]

This is great news. Anything at all that gives players an unfair advantage is right up my alley. Where do I sign up?

 

[Flippy Flippersen]

Can I get an A0 A3 B4 C = JP white E8?

 

[AZ Neon]

Hey! Looking to buy a controller.

A0
A2B(ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW)
A3
B4(L)
B5(L)
C=Smash Black
E1

 

[Kadano]

Can I get an A0 A3 B4 C = JP white E8?

Hey! Looking to buy a controller.

A0
A2B(ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW)
A3
B4(L)
B5(L)
C=Smash Black
E1

I added both of you!

I also added total prices to all full requests, so paying is possible for (almost) all of you now.

 

[Flippy Flippersen]

I added both of you!

I also added total prices to all full requests, so paying is possible for (almost) all of you now.

If all ended up well I paid for it now.

 

[Jeezus_]

A0, A3, B4 (Both triggers) B5, C=JP White
Question about the trigger oil- once applied, do you have to re-oil it every few months, or is it a 1 time thing?
Thanks Kadano, youre the best!!!!
Priority shipping method
Chicago, Illinois -U.S

 

[Kadano]

Yes, it did! I received the money from you, MrYaah and XVI.

For orders from #20 onward, it will take a couple more weeks until I have your controllers stocked. I am currently looking to get deals with large-scale suppliers, so the waiting time (up to one month for the latest orders) should be much shorter as soon as I manage to import 50 at once.

A0, A3, B4 (Both triggers) B5, C=Smash logo white
Question about the trigger oil- once applied, do you have to re-oil it every few months, or is it a 1 time thing?
Thanks Kadano, youre the best!!!!

Silicon oil is practically ever-lasting, you won’t need to re-apply it.

I do require a shipping option from you, though!

 

[Jeezus_]

Yes, it did! I received the money from you, MrYaah and XVI.

For orders from #20 onward, it will take a couple more weeks until I have your controllers stocked. I am currently looking to get deals with large-scale suppliers, so the waiting time (up to one month for the latest orders) should be much shorter as soon as I manage to import 50 at once.


Silicon oil is practically ever-lasting, you won’t need to re-apply it.

thats awesome, thanks so much. :D let me know when to PM you my info, as well as when to pay. <3

 

[Kadano]

After you tell me your preferred shipping method, I will include your total in the OP, which you can then send me through PayPal.

 

[AZ Neon]

I added both of you!

I also added total prices to all full requests, so paying is possible for (almost) all of you now.

Thanks! Also, I'm realizing I forgot to add B7(Y) to my order.

 

[Jeezus_]

After you tell me your preferred shipping method, I will include your total in the OP, which you can then send me through PayPal.

I made some modifications to my request, also added shipping method in my original order post.

 

[Kadano]

Important:
For now, I will not accept any new orders beyond #34. I need to set up my Paypal account as commercial and register this as a trade.

Further requests here in this thread or via PM will be ignored until I announce here that I can take orders again. For those who are already in the list, please don’t send me the money yet, I need to complete the necessary legal steps first or my PayPal will get disabled lol.

If you state a request from now on until before I announce to take them again, you’ll have to write me again when I take commisions again.

As of 2015-12, I am taking orders again and can accept payments with PayPal or EU bank transfer (5€ discount).