Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

[Kadano]

Today, I shipped out the three remaining controllers that have been paid already (XVI, Kesa, Flippy Flippersen).

My current stock is down to one JP white. Since I can currently only accept bank transfer, it will go to @King Funk (provided that he still wants it and is willing to pay with bank transfer), as bank transfer fees are nonexistent within EU. If he jumps off, B BrTarolg will be the next in line.

 

[SpiderMad]

I did a lot of smashing with people today using my trigger modified controller. Then I came home and kept switching off tech practice feels with my super worn out one I normally use and love. It's hard to chose, with my worn out one being very unique than most controllers.

Having a spacer is pretty radical in terms of changes, I'm surprised at people seeming to opt for it. And so far Tafo apparently enjoys everything about his: I need to ask him and other recipients how they enjoy things.

(My spacer is again around 20mm) If you're shielding you can't get full shield without going a tad farther and causing the digital press. This is a nuisance a little bit in terms of WD OOS using one trigger alone (which I always do), you have to release and re-press or otherwise not be full shielding. Normally when I full shield I just use enough of the analog until I get it: I don't trigger the digital. I don't want to trigger the digital because I feel like I'm screwing with my tech windows (by triggering tech with the digital, which for shielding may blow techs if you're say maybe shield poked or didn't get the shield up in time). I'd also say in a serious match I also probably start L-cancelling hard enough to get the full press triggered occasionally with the spacer having it risen up, which is essentially bad and leads to blowing tech windows. I'd also say it's harder to time techs just a tad, just as it's also harder to time wavelands. It's possible that the rolled up plastic bottle method of being a spacer is sucky with being hard to tell when you're gonna trigger the hard press (which is also weakened) compared to something more defined like the normal piece of trigger plastic. Again, not sure if you're using that method still for controller's you're shipping out or came up with something better. It seems a spacer is solely for ergonomics, you can achieve the highest APM you need with a little bit of weakened hard press/springs, the spacer just complicates the necessary intentionally designed range of analog and such for getting full shield/L-cancels without triggering the hard press. It seems like too big of a nuisance for top level play/players, which makes it weird that some of them opted for it (though there's pry a lot of bad habits like full pressed L-cancels still going on in top level players).

Another thing, which I'm thinking is because of the shortened spring or then otherwise just how the controller is. Is that it's hard to get Full light shield with. The region to press is very precise for it, otherwise I usually get a non-perfect one. My worn-out controller is awesome at getting full light shield easily for whatever reason, and the springs have never been shortened but they're so worn that they're even easier to press through than the shortened modified controller's. I'm thinking springs that have been cut off (shortened) are inferior to weakened springs, which I'm not sure how you go about trying to make a "weakening" modification instead. Perhaps I should try to stretch out the shortened springs length, idk.

The R has the spring taken out completely (so it's sunken in, and I only use it for PS'ing), and my grip (which has my finger rest on it normally) got use to not resting on it after I played long enough. I can't tell if my grip becomes better or worse without it being able to rest there, probably negligible.

Also my worn out controller (which was worn out by brutal playstyled casual friends back in Melee's release era, and then me using it ever since I can remember competitively since 2011) has the control stick rubber completely de-grooved. I have always been fond of this, especially for Falco. Doing things like Isai dropped lasering starts to become slightly abrasive to your thumb with a normal control stick, which I'd rather not try to enjoy callousing my thumb at all. With my modified controller I'm thinking I'll find the best way to moderately de-groove it (which I naturally don't do to it, my friends were the ones).

Another aspect is my worn out controller's control stick is the loosest thing ever, while still being acute on its input accuracy (unlike other controllers that have a lot of "play" in them that sucks rather than being loose in a good way): only downside is it's just a bit over-loose and also tends towards the left. That, combined with the control stick being de-grooved, makes it the best for optimum aerial drifting/lasering control. I just wish, like I think I mentioned in my past post, that I could just have some 1 hour "loosen" method of going ham on it to actually get my modified controller loosened a bit: but I think the stickbox plays a part in keeping my worn out controller so accurate and responsive to the looseness. Also the way it's loose and everything makes it easier to get longer wavelands compared to my modified controller's (I never liked the modified controller's control stick anymore than average in the first place, but it wasn't bad). Having a perfect wavedash modified control-gate could possibly overcome this issue.

Comparing worn out buttons (the mesh being weakened) to new normal ones (the modified controller's which I haven't tampered with yet) is also hard to chose one or the other: and I can't reach a conclusion if I should start perforating my modified one's.

I should also try out the Control Stick Piece to replace the C-stick's normal piece. But like your video showed of it, it only seems the best for Falcon/Marth: not so sure for Falco. Tafo also got it replaced though when he does sheik. I'll have to try it.

I should probably also buy some "silicone lube?" to use a tiny bit of that on the trigger. I really don't want any goo ever going on my hands though.

I'd like to see my worn out controller's hard press be replicated (I don't want to open it though to find out what the hell is going on if it's gonna ruin the magic keeping it doing what it does). It was guessed by you that the rubber is completely broken or something: so It's inaudible and intangible but it still works (though I dropped it once and the click came back only to go away after a few games), making it completely ergonomic with a slight downfall in accuracy (though compared to the modified spacer method it is still better than it).

 

[Kadano]

I received new shipments from Japan. Current stock:
1 JP white
3 Smash white
1 Smash black

EU customers who are willing to pay with bank transfer and are already in my order list will be preferred (until my new PayPal is finished). For now, that’s King Funk, BrTarolg and leffen. If they don’t want to buy them, I will take new requests for as many as are left of my current stock for EU customers willing to pay with bank transfer only.
As soon as my new PayPal account works fine, I will work orders from top to bottom in the list again.

Seems like it's a hit (B2b). How have people you've done it for so far enjoy it? Have you modified the method to do it at all so far? Are people starting to like this set-up more, equal to, or less than your personally preferred modification of just lowering the standard resting position (which you currently do for your controller).

For all controller orders, I modified my B2b method a bit from the pictures I posted before. I won’t go into the details until my website is ready; I’ll host a (free to access, of course) section there with guides on how to do my modifications there. It doesn’t make sense to me to explain it here on page 3 of what will probably be many. I need to make my content more accessible. To keep it short, I use about 20x80 mm base plastic pieces. But I don’t have the time to answer follow-up questions here.

 

[blue tony]

Does decreasing y button height help with anything other than making short-hopping slightly easier? Could it also help with multi-shining?

 

[Kadano]

Does decreasing y button height help with anything other than making short-hopping slightly easier? Could it also help with multi-shining?

The main reason people request is is so they can slide from B to Y quicklier (for multishines, yes). It also makes it more comfortable to press it coming from the bottom left of the Y button with your thumb.

 

[Jeezus_]

Hey Kadano Ive been busy so I havent had time to check this. When should I paypal you the money for my controller? Thanks <3

 

[Kadano]

Hey Kadano Ive been busy so I havent had time to check this. When should I paypal you the money for my controller? Thanks <3

I still don’t know when my new Paypal will be working. With the response time from Paypal support so far, I’m guessing about a week until I can take payments again.

 

[Pauer]

With this big influx of orders around the corner for when your new PayPal account is set up, I'm curious whether it'd be cheaper to ship Kadano to America than pay the shipping fees for the controllers 50 times.

 

[Boone]

Is it possible for you to apply B5 to the Z-Button? I noticed that Mew2King requested it, yet it is not in your description as one of the possible buttons that can be modified.

 

[Kiusthugs]

How exactly does B7, the shortening of the Y button, even help? Can it help on short hopping? How do you do the mod

 

[Kadano]

As I said at the end of post #83, I won’t explain how I do these mods any further here. That’ll happen on my website once it’s online.

 

[Kiusthugs]

As I said at the end of post #83, I won’t explain how I do these mods any further here. That’ll happen on my website once it’s online.

Alright then, can you answer the first parts of my question?

 

[Kadano]

I answered that in post #85, which is just a little scrolling up from yours.

 

[Kiusthugs]

I answered that in post #85, which is just a little scrolling up from yours.

Does it help with short hops

 

[Kadano]

Does it help with short hops

Perhaps slightly. I never did it for one of mine controllers and only playtested the commissions until I was sure they were working properly. Maybe one of those that have them already can tell us here ( sincerazero ).

 

[BrTarolg]

sup just msg me when i should pay and i'll pay immediately with whatever way you want :D

just give me bank details in a pm or something and i'll send the correct amount (might be in GBP convertible im not sure?)

 

[Chrozon]

Hey man, I'd love to buy a controller:
A0, A3, C=JP White, E7
Just message me when I need to pay

EDIT: I added A0 as well. I have a bit of a problem doing turnaround needles with sheik when I try to do it fast, will this help with that?

 

[Rothion]

A0
A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW, ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW)
B2bLR
B5 (ABXYLR)
C=JP White
E8
126€ total, I think.
Would be convenient if you could pm me bank id or something.

 

[sincerazero]

Does it help with short hops

Perhaps slightly. I never did it for one of mine controllers and only playtested the commissions until I was sure they were working properly. Maybe one of those that have them already can tell us here ( sincerazero ).

Kiusthugs Not sure what you're asking, but to clarify, the button is easier to press when sliding your finger to it. The button is sloped but it's smaller so you don't have to lift your finger and can just slide to it like I do. You still have to release the button in the same amount of time as you would with a stock controller, but it's easier here since the button isn't as big.

 

[Fishaman P]

Just 2 quick questions:

1) Can you modify or replace a bad stickbox? My current one requires going past 45° on both sides for Axe shield drops. And it's gotta be in the same controller as the one I send you because...

2) Can you modify ASCII controllers?

 

[Kadano]

Just 2 quick questions:

1) Can you modify or replace a bad stickbox? My current one requires going past 45° on both sides for Axe shield drops. And it's gotta be in the same controller as the one I send you because...

2) Can you modify ASCII controllers?

1) That fact alone doesn’t make it a “bad stickbox” in my book. If it requires more than the current SW and SE notches, I will simply shift these downward a bit so that notch positions will trigger the correct values. Or are there other problems with this stickbox too?

2) As long as these are screwed together too (and not glued together), I see no reason why I wouldn’t be able to modify them. I have never had one or seen pictures of its internals, but I’d expect that outside of the keyboard, they are just like normal controllers.

 

[grayfox]

A0, A3, C=smash white, E8

I can do bank transfers if it makes it easier for you.

 

[MKarma]

Edited a bad opinion that I changed my mind on

 

[darkatma]

Hmm I'm very interested in buying a controller as well.

darkatma:
A0
A3
Smash White or JPN White

I realize you're busy and probably backordered, could you let me know when you would be available for my order? I can probably pay via whichever method is easiest for you (but I live in America so I don't know if that complicates anything).

Thanks for all the work you do in our community by the way! Loved the sheik 11 frame galint guide, as well as all the video tutorials you make.

 

[Big Gay Thunder]

So I’ve been playing around with some of Kadano’s mods and I wanted to call attention to a modification that isn’t listed but I think a few of you might be interested in. Kadano discusses it three minutes into this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-ocRhWobAc). In both that video and in this thread he doesn’t discus the full utility of this mod. This mod allows you to easily do frame perfect wavedashes out of and into shield.


So, as Kadano describes, you start by inserting a piece of plastic into the lower half of the shield potentiometer. I used a cut and melted Bic pen exterior. The plastic will stop your shoulder button from ever fully decreasing, meaning that you’ll never get a digital click. You won’t be able to air dodge or powershield with that shoulder button because they both require digital press. This makes wave dashing into and out of shield super easy. Because you can’t airdodge with that shoulder button, you can keep it fully depressed while you wavedash. Your shield will come up on the first frame it’s able to.


I have the slider blocked (so lightshield only) on my R shoulder button and the spring taken out (digital only) on my left shoulder button. This combination works really well because I’m able to do perfect wavedashes in shield and also get easy powershields. The downside to blocking the slider is that you can’t powershield projectiles. But because I have my L button set to digital click only I can quickly react and powershield. Just like wavedashing, you can keep the R button depressed the entire time. The digital click in L supercedes the analog value on R.

 

[MrLul]

This is amazingggg

May I purchase a controller with:
A0
A3
B2a for L trigger
B4

Any smash controller

 

[jmjb]

I'd like to get one of these for Smash 4,and I'm sure others do too. actually ZeRo was the one who I found out about this shop through.
Do you have any plans for Smash 4 controller configs?

 

[Kadano]

I'd like to get one of these for Smash 4,and I'm sure others do too. actually ZeRo was the one who I found out about this shop through.
Do you have any plans for Smash 4 controller configs?

I know next to nothing about Smash 4 and don’t even have the game, so I have no idea how similar its control stick actions are mapped.
I don’t have any plans for doing this for Smash 4, although I suppose the A0 and B mods would by many be considered as an improvement for Smash 4 too.

 

[Kadano]

I am now able to take PayPal payments again. I have decided to sell the 4 new controllers I have right now (1 Smash black, 3 Smash white) to those who want them as quickly as possible, and are willing to pay a bit more for that. Reply to this tweet with the additional $ you offer (regular price as summed from OP’s list is still due).
After 24 hours from now, the top 4 will get their controller requests shipped on Monday.

Additionally, after these 24 hours, I will take requests here in this thread and via PM again. (I had announced earlier that I won’t take any for now, but people still sent them to me. I don’t want to put those who took what I said serious at a disadvantage, so I will only count the requests which are not in the OP list yet that are added starting from 24 hours after now, and not any of those sent between my announcement and [now+24 hours – 2015-11-15 19:15 GMT].

After these 4 controllers, I will go back to doing them in the order within the list in the OP. First new stock should arrive within a week. It will still take some time until I can bulk order 50 controllers at once and ship out every request after 2 working days, unfortunately.

If less than 4 people offer extra money, the rest of the 4 controllers I have in stock will also go to the highest people in the OP list (without their prices being increased, of course).

 

[Archelon]

A price of 24 Euros for the notches on the octogate is very reasonable. I did it myself and it took MANY hours, and they probably aren't as precise as Kadano would have made them.

 

[Kadano]

By the way, I unstickied this thread. I don‘t know who stickied it in the first place, but I don’t like the idea of a community member selling stuff getting forum-boosted attention (regardless of this person being me).

 

[reverie2]

How exactly does A2 work in comparison to A1? So it says you're rounding out the angles between +/- 18 degree notches. How many angles are between each +/-18 degree notch (for example between (0+18degrees) and (90-18degrees))

 

[grayfox]

I didn't see any post saying you were taking no more requests and I didn't fully understand your comment but if it means you aren't taking the previous requests put in ill repeat mine?

A0, A3, C=smash white, E8

I can do bank transfers if it makes it easier for you.

 

[Kadano]

How exactly does A2 work in comparison to A1? So it says you're rounding out the angles between +/- 18 degree notches. How many angles are between each +/-18 degree notch (for example between (0+18degrees) and (90-18degrees))

There are zero angles between mod90° and "perfect" (17.1° IIRC) angles.
I usually aim for about 18°, yeah, as to eliminate the risk of accidentally overshooting into cardinal (dead zone) area.

Between 45°+mod90° (45°, 135°, 225°, 315°) and (mod90°±17.1°), there are about 43 angles for each octant section, and it is these that are more easily reached by opting for A2 instead of A1.

I didn't see any post saying you were taking no more requests and I didn't fully understand your comment but if it means you aren't taking the previous requests put in ill repeat mine?

A0, A3, C=smash white, E8

I can do bank transfers if it makes it easier for you.

The relevant post is here: http://smashboards.com/posts/20338385/ (bottom of page 1 of this thread, also linked from the OP in the payment section)

As I announced in post #109, I will take all orders into the list that are given here, per PM or on Twitter (direct message or reply), starting from today, 19:15 GMT, which is in 18 minutes.

Sorry if this seems like a janky / unnecessarily strict way to go about it. Until I have my website running, I want to still have some order in the process and somewhat equal chances for everybody, so I decided to do the 24 hours waiting period.

 

[reverie2]

There are zero angles between mod90° and "perfect" (17.1° IIRC) angles.
I usually aim for about 18°, yeah, as to eliminate the risk of accidentally overshooting into cardinal (dead zone) area.

Between 45°+mod90° (45°, 135°, 225°, 315°) and (mod90°±17.1°), there are about 43 angles for each octant section, and it is these that are more easily reached by opting for A2 instead of A1.


The relevant post is here: http://smashboards.com/posts/20338385/ (bottom of page 1 of this thread, also linked from the OP in the payment section)

As I announced in post #109, I will take all orders into the list that are given here, per PM or on Twitter (direct message or reply), starting from today, 19:15 GMT, which is in 18 minutes.

Sorry if this seems like a janky / unnecessarily strict way to go about it. Until I have my website running, I want to still have some order in the process and somewhat equal chances for everybody, so I decided to do the 24 hours waiting period.

So for A2, how many of the 43 angles do you place between 0° and 45° (if you do the full 48 euro package)? And basically you do the same for each quadrant right?

 

[JarJarBinks]

A0, A2b (ESE, WSW), A2a (all other octants), A3, B2bLR, B4, B5LRABX, B6LR, C=Smash White, E2

 

[Kadano]

New orders that will be added to the OP asap:
1. R reverie2 (PM sent at 19:15 GMT)
2. J JarJarBinks (replied at 19:16 GMT)
3. @SSBM_AEON (PM sent at 19:18 GMT)
4. @R3N0 (Twitter DM sent at 20:33 GMT)
(This post will be updated for the next 10 hours, after that I’ll just add all of the above and orders beyond that to the OP again.)

So for A2, how many of the 43 angles do you place between 0° and 45° (if you do the full 48 euro package)? And basically you do the same for each quadrant right?

I make them more accessible by rounding out the area that they are triggered from. Having 43 separate notches in that small area wouldn’t work at all. Please look at the spoiler images in the OP for illustrations and photos, it should be clear what I mean from that.

 

[B1tches]

can someone give me info to buy one of these controllers. Ah actually I read everything. Anyone have suggestions, mod wise, for a fox player to make a good controller but not super expensive one. Like I don't want any sopo ****. But I'm still not sure about everything else

 

[crush]

A0, A2b (all 8 octants), A3, B5R60, B6R70, C (old controller with less control stick resistance preferred), D2B, E1

 

[whatwhatwhatwhatwhat]

Hey Kadano, I'd like to order this controller:

A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B5ABXYLR, B6LR70, B7X, C=JP White, D2b, E3

Thanks!