Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

Zarklord

Smash Rookie
Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
8
hey kadano would you be willing(not right now obviously) to do a pro controller gate mod for me? it would be just octogon gate(since its circle gate by default) A2 and A3, for main stick and octogon gate for second stick...
I'm not sure whether doing so is a good idea. The Wii U Pro Controllers' gate might have a wider range already, so further extending that by carving in a hybrid gate might cause issues.
Also, from a practical viewpoint, I neither have a Wii U nor does Smash 4 have a precise input display as far as I'm aware, so I don't know how I could check the dead zone thresholds for that game.
Alright that's good to know if you are willing to try let me know...
 

CFMV

"The Marf"
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Oct 16, 2006
Messages
278
Location
Lawrence, KS
Hey Kadano would you be willing to document your new method for doing B2b (trigger point elevation) mod? I will donate for your effort.

I ended up using your original method and it worked out pretty well.



I used thick packaging plastic instead of a plastic bottle, which I had to heat up with a lighter and wrap around a screwdriver to be able to roll it up.
 
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Kadano

Magical Express
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Hey Kadano would you be willing to document your new method for doing B2b (trigger point elevation) mod? I will donate for your effort.

I ended up using your original method and it worked out pretty well.



I used thick packaging plastic instead of a plastic bottle, which I had to heat up with a lighter and wrap around a screwdriver to be able to roll it up.
I buy long wood staves with a diameter of 5 mm, use my Olfa blade to reduce the diameter to 4.8 mm and cut it into pieces of about 20.25 mm length (20.25 mm is the default spacer length, if the customer specifies more or less B2b percents, I keep it shorter or longer respectively).
 

Zarklord

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Mar 29, 2016
Messages
8
Hey Kadano would you be willing to document your new method for doing B2b (trigger point elevation) mod? I will donate for your effort.

I ended up using your original method and it worked out pretty well.



I used thick packaging plastic instead of a plastic bottle, which I had to heat up with a lighter and wrap around a screwdriver to be able to roll it up.
that megaminx in the background...
what your best time?
 

CFMV

"The Marf"
Joined
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Messages
278
Location
Lawrence, KS
I haven't actually timed it but it usually takes me 3-4 minutes. I developed my own algorithm so it's probably not as optimal as some of the algorithms you can find online but I like doing it my way
 

Zarklord

Smash Rookie
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Mar 29, 2016
Messages
8
I haven't actually timed it but it usually takes me 3-4 minutes. I developed my own algorithm so it's probably not as optimal as some of the algorithms you can find online but I like doing it my way
about same for me(timing wise)...
 
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Kadano

Magical Express
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Would the Ice Climber solo jump and solo smash modifications be difficult for someone like myself to make? Thanks.
I don't know how much experience you personally have with perfecting notch values. ICs solo notches require very high precision, so it would certainly be difficult, even if you are very experienced.
 

Kaoak

Smash Cadet
Joined
Aug 2, 2014
Messages
55
If you could add snapback removal (S1) to my controller mod that'd be sweet (if you will still modify orders). I read up about it on your twitter just recently.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
1
I tried out my buddies modded controller and loved it, but im not an expert on these types of mods....can someone tell me which control stick mods would best benefit me as a sheik player, thanks!
 

Kadano

Magical Express
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I will open for new controllers again tomorrow, 2016-11-16, on 20:00 UTC. (20 hours from now.) Every order requested in this thread after this point of time or sent through a Smashboards PM will be added to the batch "2016 November 1" afterwards.

To prevent similarly long waiting lists in the future, I will not keep a general queue from now on, but only per-batch ones. Each controller in a batch will be shipped at once. One batch includes 20 orders and will be shipped on Thursday every week. One order may not include more than 4 controllers at this point.

People from the old queue in the original post still deserve to be served first.If they let me know that they still want their requested order, they will be added into the next open batch immediately.
The same is true for people who I've sold controllers to in the past that became faulty, repairing these has priority, of course.

Batch 2016 November 1 (will be shipped by 2016-11-24):
# Player name Mod list Additional requests and details
1 PatSheezy / @TrenchFoot (SW) [shipped] Repair and servicing, from old queue
2 @chokingvictim3 (PW) [shipped] Repair and servicing, from old queue
3 Kaoak Kaoak JP08 [A3 B4, B5L,B6L, S2b] [shipped] Paid, from old queue
4 Charlezard Charlezard SW+SB [A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,B6LR75,D2a,E2], shells swapped [paid]
5 @ozymandy SW [A0,A3,B4LR,B7Y] Unpaid, from old queue
6 @Gahtzu SB [A3,A6,B1R,B4LR,B5L] Unpaid, new order (sent via PM)
7 TrailmonX (same controller and mods as before) [shipped] Paid, new order (sent via PM)
8 W wAwA JP08 [A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,D2a],E2 Unpaid, (new order)
9 L levup 1*SW,1*SB [A3,B4LR,B5R,S2b(SB only)],E2 Unpaid, new order
10 Geras Geras SW [A0,A3,B4LR,B6LR,S2],E2 Consistent dash backs requested, but not mandatory
11 T Tipo mastr SW [A0,A3,B2a,B4,B5L60,B6L75R50,B7Y] Unpaid, new order
12 -Spark- -Spark- (any controller with no snapback and high dash back) [A3,B2bL40R40,B3L,B4LR,B5L,B6LR,B7Y,D1,D2a,S2(+on C-stick if necessary) Unpaid, new order
13 DuckPimp DuckPimp SW [A3,B4LR,B5LR,B6LR75],E2 Unpaid, new order
14 TrebaxTV TrebaxTV Undisclosed Unpaid, new order
15 Stijn Stijn SW [A2,B2a],E8 Unpaid, new order (sent via PM), Consistent dash backs requested, but not mandatory
16 @Drake_Azure JP08 [A2,A3,B4LR (if necessary),B5LR,B6LR,D2a,S2?],E1 Unpaid, new order (via PM)
17 C Comcom SB [A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,B7XY,S2],E8 Unpaid, new order (via PM)
18 R R2DLIU (any with good dash back) [A3] Unpaid, new order, Tight sticks and consistent dash backs requested, if these are mandatory, order might be discarded (impossible for me to achieve right now)
19 @DiZZ (any with very good dash back) [A3,(new triggers)] Unpaid, new order (via PM), Consistent dash backs requested, if these are mandatory, order might be discarded (impossible for me to achieve right now)
20 Flippy Flippersen Flippy Flippersen JP08 [A0,A3,B4],E8 Unpaid, new order



Batch 2016 December 1 (will be shipped by 2016-12-01:
# Player name Mod list Additional requests and details


Batch 2016 December 2 (will be shipped by 2016-12-08:
# Player name Mod list Additional requests and details
 
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Charlezard

Smash Rookie
Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
2
Hi Kadano,

I'm still on the old list (here's my old post from March): https://smashboards.com/threads/kad...etails-and-prices.421137/page-6#post-20965928

I'd like to keep this order, but with a few small modifications, so here's the new order form:
  • Two Smash 4 controllers, one white and one black, each with the following modifications
  • A0
  • A3
  • B2b
  • B4LR
  • B6L75R75
  • D2a
  • E2
  • Shells swapped, so that one is white on top and black on bottom, and the other is black on top and white on bottom
Thank you!!
charlesrmadere@gmail.com
 
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wAwA

Smash Rookie
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
1
Hi Kadano,

I am looking to order a jp08 white with:

A0
A3
B2b
B4
D2a

Shipping: E2

I live in New York City.

Thanks,
Wawa
 
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Geras

Smash Rookie
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
8
NNID
GerassN
Hey Kadano!

I'd like to order one of those sweet controllers with the following mods:
  • A0
  • A3
  • B4LR
  • B6LR
  • S2
The shipment would be E2 and the controller can be either Smash 4 controller (although preferably the white one).
An additional request would be that the controller can do consistent dash backs. Send me a PM for contact info.

Thanks in advance!
 
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-Spark-

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
2
Location
Santa Cruz, CA
3DS FC
1134-8504-6072
NNID
Spark676
I don’t know if I’m allowed to ask this but I prefer any controller with a very good dashback (I like to flick the stick quickly in other to do sheik's extended dash dance without an accidental slow turnaround, dash back out of crouch is also pretty important to me) and no snapback (probably wouldn’t like JP white though since it’s €90), if you have any controllers like that available. If you don't have any without snapback, do S2. I don’t mind too much about ledgedash.

A3 (shielddrop notches both sides)

B2bL40R40

B3L

B4LR

B5L

B6LR

B7Y

D1- if the mass of the c-stick knob causes snapback, please do S2 to it as well.

D2a

S2-both sticks if D1 causes c-stick to have snapback, otherwise just analog stick if it has snapback


spark676@gmail.com or twitter.com/spark676 :)
 

TrebaxTV

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
2
Hi Kadano

I havent used smashboards much as im a fairly new member and still getting the hang of it so didnt know how to PM.

Im looking to be added to your list to have a modded controller, would love to own and use one!

My email address is trebaxtv@gmail.com if you could contact me when can to discuss what i would like you to do :-)

Many thanks
Craig
 

Comcom

Smash Rookie
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
1
Hi Kadano ,

i would llike to order a smash black controller with the following mods:

(A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,B7XY, C=SB,E8, S2)

E-Mail is laseryeti@gmail.com and im living in Germany , Rheinland Pfalz
 
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Foxy

Smash Master
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Messages
3,900
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
Hello - I was considering the modifications and I have a question!

For what reason do more people prefer the A3 over the A2 controller gate mod? Is it a matter of the price difference?

I'd primarily like a controller gate mod that benefits shield dropping. Is A3 objectively better than A2 for that purpose? Is A2 also useful for shield drops? I would prefer to go with A2, but not if it's inferior for shield drops.
 

Kadano

Magical Express
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Vienna, Austria
With the 20 incoming orders so far, the November 1 batch is full. I'll do my best to complete all of these controllers as soon as possible.

For those who requested a high back dash rate, I will measure all the used controllers I have in stock to find out how many of them have the potentiometer glitch. Please understand that depending on how many I have with the properties, I might ask more for these controllers.
Orders that insist on a high back dash rate that exceeds my supply will be removed, I'd rather not take an order at all than take it and deliver less than expected.

Hello - I was considering the modifications and I have a question!

For what reason do more people prefer the A3 over the A2 controller gate mod? Is it a matter of the price difference?

I'd primarily like a controller gate mod that benefits shield dropping. Is A3 objectively better than A2 for that purpose? Is A2 also useful for shield drops? I would prefer to go with A2, but not if it's inferior for shield drops.
Hey Foxy,
The A2 notches are separate from A3. A3 gives shield drop notches, A2 gives hybrid gate notches that prevent hitting the cardinal dead zones by accident. The two mods are compatible with each other, so A2 does not impact shield drops, and yes, a complete A2 hybrid gate is more pricey due to its difficulty in doing just right and the necessary time to perfect all the notches.
 

Foxy

Smash Master
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Messages
3,900
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
Hey Foxy,
The A2 notches are separate from A3. A3 gives shield drop notches, A2 gives hybrid gate notches that prevent hitting the cardinal dead zones by accident. The two mods are compatible with each other, so A2 does not impact shield drops, and yes, a complete A2 hybrid gate is more pricey due to its difficulty in doing just right and the necessary time to perfect all the notches.
Ah, then I'll have to consider A2 and A3 together. Thanks for the clarification Kadano.
 
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Reeve

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Messages
1
Location
Louisville, KY
Hey Kadano Kadano , I would like to place an order with these specifications

A3, B4L, B5L (70% of original click), B6L80, D2

I would also prefer a controller that has good dash back if at all possible. You can contact me at a.reed99@hotmail.com , I'm much more active there than on smashboards.

Thanks!
 

ColtFreeman

Smash Rookie
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
1
Kadano Kadano
I would like to order a controller!
All I would like to have done is sheild drop notches. I believe it's A3?
I'm from United States, Alabama, Birmingham
My E-mail is Kingslasma@gmail.com
Kingslasma@gmail.com is also associated with my paypal.
I've never used this website before, so sorry ahead of time if my message is missing information
Please contact me in some way if you see this!
Thanks
 
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Kadano

Magical Express
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Feb 26, 2009
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Vienna, Austria
I noticed that I haven't really documented snapback, the physical specifics of the capacitor mod and the smash turn potentiometer oddity / glitch in an easy-to-understand format. This post will give a basic run-down of that, in a simple way that focuses on an in-game perspective, and afterwards I'll write a post that's more in-detail for those who are interested in the precise technical and electrical workings.

This is the one reference post on my up-to-date stock in used controllers, see table at the bottom.


1. Potentiometers (basic)
Potentiometers are the black parts connected to the stickboxes that read the position of the control stick.
The one below the stickbox reads horizontal movements while the one to the right side of the stickbox reads vertical movements.

Twice per frame (every 8.3 ms), the control stick is polled by the console. Once per frame, the game uses the last poll to calculate the character inputs.

2. Snapback (basic)
The stickbox contains a spring that is responsible for returning the stick to the neutral position after every input.
Because the pastic stick knob has a mass and thus inertia, during flick inputs (letting go of the stick from full or almost full extension) the stick knob will vibrate around the neutral position, similar to a pendulum.
Here is a slowed down video that shows this:
After about three cycles left and right, the stick comes to a rest. (With the gfycat controls at the bottom right of the video, you can adjust speed to see the vibration movements more clearly.)
Since, during these vibrations, the stick knob overextends to the opposite direction, this input is also registered by the potentiometer.
Here is a screenshot of voltage measurements taken with an oscilloscope:
On controllers with technically properly functioning potentiometers, the electrical readings will follow the physical movements of the stick and over-extend beyond the dead zone (illustrated by the cyan and magenta lines), which causes directional inputs in-game. For example, if you want to do a neutral-B to the left and use flick inputs to do so as quickly as possible, with the controller measured here, about every third time, the neutral-B will go towards the right instead.
Why every third time? To calculate the chances of the control stick being polled, you simply divide the range with a given property (5 ms here for snapback) by the length of a frame (16.67 ms). 5/16.67 equals 0.3, which is almost a third.

It is possible to prevent the snapback problem by learning different thumb input methods, however all in all I don't think they are a good choice. If you still want to read on and try them yourself, please refer to the second more in-depth post (section 3).

3. The tilt turn issue (basic)
When you want to dash backwards from the standing animation (Wait), it takes about 5-8 ms to move through the tilt turn range with your thumb. If the control stick is being polled during this time, you get a tilt turn, which delays the start of your dash by 4-8 frames.
The unwanted rate of tilt turns can be calculated by dividing the time spent in the tilt turn range (can only be measured with an oscilloscope) by 16.67. Here is a diagram that shows this:
This time spent in tilt turn range is the rise / fall time (rise for inputs to the right, fall time for inputs to the left) and will from now on be referred to as RFT.
The problem here is not located in the control stick or in your own input, as humans clearly can't be expected to move their thumbs at the speed of light (which is what would be necessary for 100% smash turn rate). At fault here is the programming of the turn animation. I've proposed adopting a code Magus420 wrote in all tournament setups to eliminate this problem, but until we get there (if ever), people rightfully want other ways to achieve RFTs shorter than shown above, which brings me to the next section:

4. The potentiometer oddity (basic)
With usage, some controllers undergo degradation within the potentiometer that introduces skipping in input levels. Sometimes, the degradation exists to a degree where the tilt turn rate is decreased drastically. It's referred to as "potentiometer oddity", "potentiometer phenomenon" or as "potentiometer glitch". I will use the abbreviation "PODE" from now on (Potentiometer Oddity Degradation Effect), and grade potentiometers by their PODE strength.

4.1 RFT effect of the potentiometer oddity degradation effect
Here is an example comparison of a controller without this oddity, one that does have it to a lesser degree and one with high degradation effect:


↑If the skipping part (where the yellow signal line drops from neutral much slower than expected) had stayed a bit further up within the dead zone, the fall time would have been much better. In fact, on this controller the RFT is more often than not really good, this reading was just one of a few unlucky ones.


↑Here, the degradation effect is near-maximum. The skipping part stays completely within the dead zone, which is what we want.

4.2 Snapback elimination caused by the PODE
The skipping of the oddity also eliminates snapback sometimes. The degradation is, however, very volatile and can easily disappear or just not happen occasionally.

Here is an input recording series where the PODE eliminates snapback every time:


Just a few seconds later, on the very same controller, however, some of the inputs were not affected by the PODE sufficiently:


About three minutes later, without touching the inner parts of the controller, I suddenly had snapback on all the input samples in one series:

To sum this part up, snapback is often taken care of by the PODE, but not always consistently so.


5. Capacitor mod for snapback removal (S2) (basic)
While ideally we would want to fix the snapback problem by eliminating the physical over-extension and vibration of the stick knob after flick inputs, doing so with silicone grease has led to different problems in the past (the grease got pushed into the inside of the potentiometer and messed up inputs badly), so my current standard method to fix snapback is adding a capacitor that's just large enough to smoothen out the vibration.
If you don't know what a capacitor is, to explain it very quickly it's a buffering device that's charged by the capacitor signal pin and takes a small bit of the voltage away from the signal path.

Important: the one impracticality to the capacitor mod is that with it, you always need to reset the controller by holding X+Y+Start for three seconds after plugging it in. This only needs to be done once after plugging in, it's never necessary to do this a second time until you re-plug the controller.
On Wii Nintendont setups where Native Control is not enabled, the X+Y+Start combination doesn't work properly. I recommend always pressing the following button combination when using a Wii that's not yours: R+Z+B+D-pad down. If the Wii does not have Native Control enabled, you will be taken back to the Homebrew Channel. In that case, open Nintendont (should be the default highlighted app), and after selecting SD/USB device, press B to enter the settings menu. Scroll down to "Native Control" and set it to "ON".

Here are flick inputs on one controller, yellow is without a capacitor, green is with a 1000 nF (105 or 1 µF) capacitor:

With the 1µF capacitor, there is never in-game snapback. RFT are also hardly affected, so there is no delay that could affect inputs on controllers without the PODE.
On controllers with the PODE, however, RFT are impacted and can't go below roughly 2.6 ms, regardless of input method. To take care of that case, so that you are not limited by the capacitor by the time your controller develops the PODE (if ever), I do the capacitor mod in a way in which you can remove the capacitor yourself easily. No soldering tools are necessary, just a triwing screwdriver (if you don't have one, I can include one for +1$ starting in about 2016-12-18 or so when I receive a new batch of them).
Here is a photo of how my capacitor mod looks like inside:

The wires are female jumper wires, the capacitor's legs are just pushed in and provide mechanical electrical connection, without solder. The wires themselves are soldered to the potentiometer pins and secured against mechanical force with hot glue.
Instructions on how to do this mod yourself are in the second in-detail post.

5.1. When should you replace or remove the capacitor?
5.1.1 It's possible that you do get in-game snapback after a while. This is because the grease inside the stickbox can be used up, making the stick vibrate and over-extend more. Because of this, I always include one ceramic 1µF capacitor if I installed a smaller capacitor in the female jumper wires. 1µF has always been enough to completely eliminate snapback on every controller I've measured so far.
If you do get in-game snapback and want to install the 1µF capacitor ("105" label print), refer to section 5.2 on how to replace the capacitor.
If you find that snapback has returned, but the installed capacitor is already a 1µF one, please contact me directly (with a reply in this thread, ideally, but private messages work too) and I can find a solution for you.

5.1.2 It's also possible that after six months or so, your controller does develop the PODE (see section 4 above for details) and you can safely remove the capacitor and enjoy the increased smash turn rates, yet still have no snapback.
It's not possible to detect this PODE in-game while the capacitor is installed. If you want to check for PODE, you'll have to open the controller, remove the capacitor, and then test in-game. If you find there to still be snapback without the capacitor, the PODE likely has not developed, or at least not in full strength yet and I recommend putting the capacitor again in that case. Read on for the details on how to do so.

5.2. How to replace the capacitor
To replace the capacitor, simple pull it out with one hand while holding both of the black female jumper wire headers with the other hand. Do not pull on the wire as you could damage the headers or the solder points on the controller board this way.

For replacing the capacitor, please read the paragraph below carefully:
Depending on my current stock, I either include electrolytical or ceramic capacitors. In the photo above, the large cylindrical capacitor is a an electrolytical one.
Electrical capacitors do not function in a symmetrical way, so it's absolutely necessary that you insert it in the correct orientation. If you put them in with the wrong orientation, the capacitor will most probably die as soon as you plug the controller into a console.
I always solder in two female jumper wires of different colors to make this easier for you. In the photo above, there is a yellow and a green wire. The wire that has a lighter color or closer to red will always be signal (+), while the wire with a darker color is always ground (−). In electrolytical capacitors, the − pin always has a shorter leg and a grey stripe print on its body shell. This − pin of the capacitor should also be inserted into the − jumper wire. So if you have a yellow and a green wire, the shorter leg (−) goes into the green wire, and the longer leg (+) goes into the yellow wire.
Another way of telling is looking at which wire is soldered to the leftmost pin on the backside of the PCB. The left pin is signal (needs the longer capacitor leg), the right pin is ground (needs the shorter capacitor leg).

If you are not sure you understand this part properly and want to replace your capacitor, please ask me beforehand on how you think it's correct to do it, telling me which color wires you have in the controller, so I can give you a clear answer on the correct orientation.

With ceramic capacitors, which have a smaller body (see photo below) and legs of equal length, orientation does not matter at all and you can insert them either way.

If you want to replace your smaller installed capacitor for the larger included 1µF one, you can find that capacitor within the back shell of the controller, where I clip it around the + element of the shell:


Note: On controllers that need a 1µF capacitor from the start, I'll still include 1-2 spare 1µF capacitors so that you have replacements in case your initial one stops working. Ceramic capacitors are very durable and should last decades usually, however their capacity can drop after about a year slightly. If that happens, try replacing it with one of the spare 1µF capacitors first, please.


6. Current used controllers stock, including stick properties
I measure all my used controllers for PODE (refer to section 4 if this term confuses you), by carving off a bit of the black trigger holder to make space for the female jumper wires, soldering said wires to the potentiometer pin, securing with hot glue and then taking measurements and saving them with my oscilloscope.

This is a lot of work, but necessary to do to grade controllers for PODE reliably. To be able to afford it, I will ask +10€ in addition to the other mod prices you go for when you choose a controller of this list. However, since the wires are already present, this also means that I include the capacitor mod S2 for free, unless you tell me specifically that you don't want it because you don't care about snapback.

Because used controllers vary so much in quality and I need a way to let people choose how much a given controller is worth to them, there is bidding for individual ones. You can simply bid +0€ to "claim" a controller and will get it if nobody else bids higher within 2-7 days.
Bids run for one week at most (starting with day of first bid), I can accept the currently highest bid two days after the first bid though. They can be sent through replies here or private messages / tweets or direct messages at me.

To make this clear: The bid prices are in addition to the other prices. So, for example, if you bid 20€ for the JPU8 controller, and also want to have shield drops (A3 mod, see list in this thread's first post), the total cost will be:
40€ for the controller itself
20€ service fee
20€ for the shield drop mod
10€ for the grading (only applies to controllers in the list below, not new Smash White or Smash Black controllers)
20€ bid to claim the controller against others
16€ shipping
For a total of 126€.

Graded controllers, all prepared for measuring and snapback elimination (female jumper wires soldered to pins 2 and 3 of the horizontal control stick potentiometer):
# Controller name code Stickbox type PODE degree RFT from thumb-rest RFT (PATI) Pictures Snapback present? Current max bid by:
1 OBUh6 3 ~75% 2.6ms [84% ST] 1.0ms [94%] Google Drive folder (37) Yes, rarely 1. leffen 80€, started 2016-11-19
2 JPU4 3 ~45% 6.8ms [59% ST] 0.8ms [95%] Google Drive folder (5) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
3 JPU5 3 ~30% 6.4ms [62% ST] 2.2ms [87%] Google Drive folder (5) Yes, low-mid Sold to Kaoak
4 JPU6 3 ~10% 6.4ms [62% ST] 3.4ms [80%] Google Drive folder (4) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
5 JPU8 3 ~80% 2.4ms [86% ST] 1.4ms [92%] Google Drive folder (15) No, never Anonymous-1 70€ 2016-11-19, bid accepted 2016-11-22
6 JPU10 3 ~40% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.0ms [88%] Google Drive folder (15) Yes, not always, low No bids yet
7 JPU11 3 ~30% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.4ms [86%] Google Drive folder (11) Yes, low No bids yet
8 JPU12 3 ~25% 6.5ms [61% ST] 2.8ms [83%] Google Drive folder (9) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
9 JPU13 3 ~50% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.8ms [83%] Google Drive folder (5) No, never N Niels91 10€, started 2016-11-20
10 JPU14 3 ~15% 7.6ms [54% ST] 3.6ms [78%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
11 JPU15 3 ~0% 6.2ms [63% ST] 3.2ms [81%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes No bids yet
12 JPU16 3 ~55% 6.6ms [60% ST] 1.4ms [92%] Google Drive folder (4) No, never 1. wAwA 50€, 2. Vestboy_Myst Vestboy_Myst 40€, started 2016-11-19
13 JPU17 3 ~20% 8.2ms [51% ST] 3.8ms [76%] Google Drive folder (4) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
14 JPM18 3 ~5% 6.4ms [62% ST] 3.6ms [78%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes No bids yet
15 EMU4 2 ~0% 7.4ms [55% ST] 3.4ms [80%] Google Drive folder (9) Yes No bids yet


PODE degree: Rough estimation of how strong the Potentiometer Oddity Degradation Effect is compared to the theoretical maximum. 30% PODE is the threshold from which on there are increases in smash turn rate with pre-accelerated thumb inputs. 60% PODE is the threshold from which on there are increases in smash turn rate with thumb-rest inputs.
I expect controllers with 10-50% PODE to have a high chance to develop 60% PODE or more within a few weeks or months of usage, but I can't guarantee this, since I haven't done extensive tests on this yet, which would also be difficult for me to do because I don't have the time to play in a dozen of controllers at once.
For controllers with <30% PODE, I estimate the PODE percentage by the irregularities within the signal line.
The PODE is not entirely linear / one-dimensional. It's possible for a controller with 50% PODE to have no snapback (JPU13), but for a controller with 75% PODE to still have snapback occasionally. The PODE percentages here refer to the effect on smash turn rates.

RFT from thumb-rest: Average rise and fall times when doing thumb-rest inputs (starting the dash back input motion with the thumb resting on top of the stick). Average on controllers with 0% PODE is about 7 ms [58%]. In brackets: smash turn success rate (calculated by RFT/16.67).

RFT (PATI)
: Average rise and fall times when doing pre-accelerated thumb inputs (starting the dash back input motion with the thumb accelerating in the air towards the stick.) Average on controllers with 0% PODE is about 3.4 ms [80%].

The pictures include at least 2 oscilloscope screenshots and usually a photo of the controller to show condition. Sometimes, I took the photo while the controller was connected to the oscilloscope, so the back shell will then not be visible on the photo. I don't think this matters because the optical condition of stick and front plate is much more important. Dirty controllers are cleaned at the beginning of the modding process. It might be useful to show photos from before the cleaning since they are indicative of usage.

Snapback present: "rarely" here means that at least some inputs don't vibrate into the opposite direction (regardless of console polling luck). "low-mid" means that the amplitude of the vibration is low, which might indicate that it's in the process of decreasing.


Ungraded used controllers
These have not been modified for grading and snapback removal. I did quickly test most of them for high smash turn rates, and they are not present in any here to a noteworthy degree. Additional used controllers that turn out to have good smash turn rates will be properly graded and added to the table above.
For the ones below, the 10€ grading fee and bidding system does not apply. You just tell me which one you want and that's what you get.

# Controller name code Stickbox type Condition Pictures Price


Controller name code explanations and base prices (without the +10€ for grading / preparing or bids):
Code Controller color and condition Possible stickbox types Base price
JPU JP 2008 white, lightly used 3 40€
JPM JP 2008 white, MINT (unused, but pre-owned) 3 60€
EMU Emerald Blue, lightly used 2,3 40€
ORU Orange Spice, lightly used 1,2,3 35€
OBUh Old black, moderately-heavily used 1,2,3 20€
OBU Old black, lightly used 1,2,3 30€
OBM Old black, MINT (unused, but pre-owned) 1,2,3 50€
PLU Platinum, lightly used 2,3 30€
PWU Pearl White, lightly used 3 45€
HRU Hori Red transparent 3 45€


Controller numbers are per controller type, not per condition. For example, I have JPU17, JPM18 and JPU19, but no JPU18 (although in my own files I sometimes refer to the JPM18 controller as such).
 
Last edited:

darcel

Smash Rookie
Joined
Nov 20, 2016
Messages
3
Current status: Open again starting 2016-11-16, 20:00 UTC

What I offer here are functionally modified controllers. I have improved the techniques and my own skills in doing so for years and I’m quite confident in saying that, by now, I’m an expert at this.
If you think that the prices are too high, please consider that ensuring that every modification is executed perfectly and the control stick values are at just the right spots takes both time and skill. Also, with the money I receive here, you fund the informative posts and Melee Mechanics videos that I’ve been doing!

For doing this, I will charge my costs for the controller (30€+ for an old controller (editions before 2008), depending on condition and rarity; 27€ for a Smash white or black one, 90€ for a new JP white (2008) one [prices for the 2008 edition have increased very much recently, I can’t get them for cheaper, unfortunately! Prices also fluctuate a lot.]), or alternatively 40€ for a used JP white 2008 controller in good condition, compensation for my time spent working on it (see list below, base fee 20€) and shipping costs to your place (see bottom of this post).
You can pay me with PayPal or bank transfer. I live in Vienna, Austria, Europe.
You can send me your order either as a reply here, as a PM or as an email to [email hidden for now].

Here is a list of modifications I can do:

A. Octagon control stick gate modifications
Blue headings denote that this modification is usually included with requests and is generally superior over others without any drawbacks.

A0. [+3€] Exchanging control stick stickbox and C-stick stickbox
. This is not an octagon gate mod, but it fits in this category best.
C-stick stickboxes (T3B) have a weaker spring, so they are better for things like reverse neutral-Bs than the default control stick stickboxes (T3W). If that’s of concern to you, A0 is recommended.
Sometimes, A0 seems to improve back dash success rate, but not significantly so. Details: www.meleeitonme.com/back-dashes-smash-turns/
A0 does not seem to eliminate snapback (= getting unwanted backwards reverse inputs after pressing the stick in the opposite direction and letting go of it quickly), unfortunately. I measured several input samples consisting of 40 presses each, and all types of stickboxes I measured (T3B and T3W, both new and worn) had somewhat similar snapback rates. On average, T3W had a bit higher rate unfortunately.
If you have problems with snapback, all I can recommend to you currently is to keep your thumb on the stick knob after every press instead of letting go of it.
If you don’t want to accustom to this different thumb input method, at least for the initial month (snapback usually becomes less of a problem after wear), I recommend not opting for A0.

A1. [+24€] Adding notches for the lowest angles from the cardinal directions (±18° from mod90°). This allows for several things: max length wavedashes, Firefox / Firebird / Vanish with the lowest possible curves that still move upwards; minimum and maximum length wavedashes & airdodges; and a few other character-specific things.
24€ is the price for all eight octants of the gate. If you only want, say, the ESE and WSW notches for max-length wavedashes, you only pay for two octants (+6€). In that case, state this in your request as “A1 (ESE,WSW)”.
In general, I recommend opting for A2 instead of this one, since angles between the mod45° notches and the mod45°±18° notches will be even harder to get. If you mostly care about longest wavedashes and don’t need intermediary lengths, you might prefer this one though.

The coloring of the notches was done back then for the modification process, I do not do this for modifications now.

A2. [+48€] Hybrid gate—current optimized controller gate. Includes ±18° notches and rounds the area between these, so you can easily get angles in between (like ±22°, for example).
48€ is the price for all eight octants of the gate. If you only want, say, the ESE and WSW notches for max-length wavedashes, you only pay for two octants (+12€). In that case, state this in your request as “A2 (ESE,WSW)” with ESE and WSW standing for the compass segments you want to have modified (ESE and WSW are for slightly below horizontal).

For a long time, I was offering two sub-types of A2, A2a and A2b. However, the former takes much longer for me to perfect and also is slightly worse altogether than A2b (because the notch readings depend more on which way you pressed from, so the threshold range isn't as precise). So from now on, I will always do A2 as A2b, which looks like in the second spoiler photo below.

By default, I will make these notches rather hard / deep so that accidentally sliding into the cardinal areas is impossible. This will have a minor drawback: If you request A3 (shield drop notches) too, a specific thumb input will be necessary to consistently shield drop.
Because of that, I also offer making these hybrid octants more shallow and flat, so that they don’t interfere with the shield drop motion. The relevant octants for shield drops are all southern ones (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW). This second method has the code A2b, so you can combine these in any way. Price per octant (6€) is the same for A2a and A2b.

Example: A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) will make the notches on the northern half more distinct while adding those on the southern half so much as they don’t hinder shield dropping. This would cost +48€.

A3. [+20€] Sung / Axe shield drop notches: I will, if necessary, slightly modify the SE and SW notch to allow reliable shield dropping with the Axe method (hold straight left / right, then quickly push the stick into the south-east or south-west notch. Usually, new controllers only work with the SW notch; if this mod is elected, I make sure that both SW and SE work reliably.)
I finish the notches properly so that on first glance, the notches look just like they do on vanilla controllers. So if it seems to you that I simply forgot to add them, please try the controller out first and see whether it shield drops well.
These shield drop notches only work in Melee. Not in Project M, not in Smash 4.

A4F. [+20€] Pivot ftilt notches: When this is elected, hybrid gate mod has to be reduced / altered somewhat. I will add in notches that allow for quick targeting to trigger a forward tilt out of smash turn and are as close to the shield drop range as possible. In other words, the shield drop notches will be expanded a bit to also function as pivot ftilt notches.
For characters that can angle their forward tilt, this will always trigger a down-angled forward tilt.

A5. [+16€] Solo-dashing notches for Popo: Only Popo will dash, not Nana. Done by adding notches slightly above SE and SW, y value of -0.8. Will take longer to do since this needs to be super-accurate. When this is elected, hybrid gate mod has to be reduced somewhat.
This technique requires single value range precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.

A6. (reserved)

A7. [+16€] Ice Climbers solo-jump notches: When this is elected, I move the NE and NW notches slightly to the sides so that hitting these angles will only cause Popo to jump.
This technique requires single value precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.
A7b. Ice Climbers dash solo-jump notches: With this subtype, the main Ice Climber will dash for one frame and then jump, while the other one will only walk and not jump. This has a value range of two, so it's a bit easier to perform than the default version of A7.

A8. [+20€] Ice Climbers solo-smash notches: C-stick modification. Adds notches to the C-stick where only one Ice Climber will do a smash attack. Has two sub-types: A8a: left and up as well as right and down are fsmash, left and down is dsmash, right and up is usmash. A8b: left and down as well as right and up are fsmash, left and up is usmash, right and down is dsmash. Takes quite long to do so this is +20€.
This technique requires single value precision. Even if I align the notch perfectly, it will still be hard to perform it consistently, since you need to both press the stick from the correct direction and, in case your control stick has a loose zone greater than 1, calibrate it properly. So in any case, this will work less consistently / require more precision to work consistently compared to shield drop and A1 / A2 notches.

A9. [+8€] Up- and down-angled forward smash notches: C-stick modification. Adds notches to the C-stick where angled smash attacks are triggered (only with characters that have these).

B. Button modifications (shoulder and others)
B1. [+3€ per trigger] Spring removal. This eliminates lightshielding in L / R. Can be useful for powershielding, but is bad for L-cancels since they’ll interfere with airdodges and teching. Not recommended in general.

B2a. [+8€ per trigger] Constant trigger depression: This decreases the distance the shoulder triggers stick out of the controller. It makes powershields easier since the distance you have to move to reach digital press will be shorter. You can still lightshield and soft press for L-cancels. Tutorial on how to do this yourself: https://twitter.com/Kadano/status/697430340898521088
B2a is known to cause problems on Wiis and Wii Us which don't have Native Control enabled in Nintendont. On vanilla Gamecubes and Wiis or in Nintendont with Native Control enabled, B2a does not cause any problems.

B2b. [+8€ per trigger] Trigger point elevation: Inserts a spacer to decrease the amount of movement necessary until digital press. Details on how I do this mod are here (← I use a different, better method now, will document it eventually). The idea is similar to 2a, but this will elevate the digital press point instead of lowering the neutral trigger position. This is recommended if you have rather long fingers and don’t want to claw as much for pressing L / R.
Unmodded shoulder triggers:


B2bLR 40% (40% of the distance necessary to move to digital press will be removed, this will retain lightshield & soft-press L-cancel ability on both sides):

B3. [free] Analog slider disabling: Makes it impossible to lightshield for that trigger. Recommended if you don’t use one of them at all but press them accidentally occasionally.

B4. [+1€ per trigger] Silicon oil application onto the inner tube: Recommended with Smash logo controllers. These tend to have triggers that get stuck; lubing the tubes with special silicon oil often helps to remove this problem.

B5. [+2€ per trigger or button] Click resistance decreasing: Decreases the amount of force necessary to trigger a digital shoulder button press by perforating the rubber plates. This will also make L / R digital presses more silent. Recommended for powershields. Should also cause less finger strain. By default, I will decrease click resistance to about 60%; if you want more or less, specify please. (For example B5L70R10 if you want 70% of original click resistance on L and only 10% on R.)
Can also be done for ABXY buttons (12€ in total if you want all rubber plate buttons (ABXYLR)).
How to do this yourself

B6. [+2€ per trigger] Spring resistance decreasing: Removes a part of the spring (a fifth to a third, specify with B6LRZ70 if you want 70% spring length on both L, R and Z, for example) to reduce analog spring force. This will decrease the amount of force necessary to pass through the analog L / R press zone or to get to the digital Z click. Can make powershields slightly easier (only for L and R of course).


B7. [+15€ per button] Button height decreasing: Recommended for the Y button if you do inputs on it in a “sliding” way. Here’s a photo comparison that shows the difference this mod makes:


C. Controller types and colors
I always offer these three base models for the controller: Smash White (27€), Smash Black (27€), used JP 2008 White (40€). The Smash edition controllers you receive will be completely new and unused (except for the amount necessary to test whether the modifications work properly). JP White 2008 edition controllers are mostly used, but in good, broken in condition.
If you don't care about the color, I recommend Smash White, since these are the cheapest and the gate mods are barely visible on lighter textures.
All of the above only have type 3 stickboxes, so in case your stickbox ever is too worn out to function well, you can easily screw in a replacement (from a Wii Classic Controller, for example).

Other controller colors that aren't always available:
Controllers with the potentiometer oddity that causes high smash turn rate (different colors – old black, purple, Platinum Pearl White, JP 2008 white, Emerald Blue: 30-60€ base price depending on condition. Will update this as I measure my current used stock.
Current stock: 10 Smash White
12 Smash Black
14 used JP 2008 white
1 unused old black (50€)
2 used old black (30€)
4 Platinum
1 Pearl White (45€)
1 Emerald Blue
1 Spice Orange
1 HORI Red (large edition, has original Mitsumi T3 stickboxes)

Currently ordered from Japan: 1 Smash White

You can also send in your own controller for modifications, but unless you live in Europe you’ll hardly save anything over buying a new controller from me since oversea shipping is ~20€.

D. Extra parts / parts removal
D1. [+3€] Control-stick-type stick knob (third party), replaces C-stick. Useful for thenar grip (doing aerials with the bottom part of your thumb on the C-stick). Your original C-stick knob will be in the box too, of course.

D2. [+2€] Rumble motor deactivation: D2a desolders the rumble so that it will never activate, but keeps it in for weight. D2b removes the motor entirely, decreasing controller weight.

R. Button remapping
R1. [+8€ per re-mapped button] Assigns a physical button to a different in-game button press. I can also assign light-press L / R to digital inputs. Specify in this way: R1[light press R press causes Z input, A press causes Y input]

S. Snapback removal
S1. [+8€] Snapback removal by silicone grease lubrication. Due to drifting problems, I will not offer this mod any longer. Original description for archival purposes:
Solves the problem of aerial neutral-B going in the wrong direction after strong left / right flick inputs. By default, I only lubricate the control stick box, but if you specify that you also want the C-stick lubed (S1C), I can do that too.
Silicone grease lubrication decreases the force with which the stick returns to neutral position. Pivots can still be performed without problems, however there is a side effect in that the wobbly noise that usually happens with snap inputs is gone, so your stick will be more silent. Very small movements from neutral cause a minimal squishy noise and feeling, but in my opinion I don't think anyone will be bothered by this.
In Smash 4, this mod makes the "perfect pivot" technique consistent and eliminates the risk of turning around twice accidentally.
I offer S1 in three different amounts:
S1a, which consists of only one time of greasing. This lowers the rate of neutral-B going off into the wrong direction down to about 1 in 40, so it still happens sometimes, just much less frequently. However, the stick will return to neutral almost as quickly as with an ungreased stickbox, making it less unusual for you to use the controller. (This is only recommended if you don't like the slower return of the control stick shown in the post linked at the bottom of this paragraph.)
S1b, for which I grease two times, keeping the physical snapback consistently below the dead zone thresholds. This is the amount I recommend to default to, since the stick will still be somewhat fast (return from full extension to neutral in about 12 ms), but also never trigger the neutral B in the wrong direction.
S1c, triple greasing. Physical snapback is eliminated completely. This amount of grease should last forever, however the control stick takes about 16 ms to return from full extension into the dead zone, so if you input a move within one frame after the end of your thumb's flick input, it could cause accidental side-Bs (still very unlikely to happen, but not completely impossible). Also, the amount of added mushy sound (see post linked below) is most present with this amount of grease.
Details and tutorial on how to do this yourself: http://smashboards.com/threads/tech...ers-tvs-recording.335040/page-6#post-21375815

S2. [+15€] Snapback removal by capacitor insertion. Does a similar job as the silicone grease lubrication, but alters the electrical behavior instead of the physical behavior, so the sounds of the controller stay the same.
I do this by soldering two female jumper wires to the horizontal potentiometer of the control stick. Into these two female plugs, I insert the smallest capacitor that I measured to be necessary for eliminating in-game snapback on this controller (with a Rigol DS1054Z oscilloscope). I also include 2-5 replacement capacitors in case the physical snapback increases with controller usage (this happens sometimes), depending on how many and which I have in stock currently.
Example photograph: View attachment 121086
Due to the capacitor being mechanically connected, without solder, you can easily replace the capacitor or remove it, with the only necessary tool being a Triwing screwdriver.
The only known downside to this mod is that the capacitor won't be fully charged by the time the initial calibration happens. This means that the controller will slightly drift to the right when plugged into the console. By resetting with X+Y+Start, you get it to calibrate correctly. This needs to be done every time you plug the controller in.
On Dolphin and Wii U, calibration happens at a slightly later point, so it works correctly right after plugging in there, without needing any X+Y+Start re-calibration.



E. Shipping
North America (USA and Canada):
E1. Standard shipping, USA: 10-15 days, 17€
E2. Priority shipping, USA: 7-9 days, 20€
[recommended]


Table for ordering more than one controller at once:
Shipping type Expected time Controller amount Price
Standard 14-16 days 1-2 17€
Priority 10-14 days 1-2 20€

Standard 14-16 days 3-4 20€
Priority
10-14 days 3-4 26€

Standard
14-16 days 5-6 26€
Priority
10-14 days 5-6 40€



Australia:
E4, Standard shipping, Australia: 7-12 days, 22€
E5, Priority shipping, Australia:4-6 days, 27€
[recommended]

Europe:
E7. Standard shipping, EU1: 5-10 days, 10€,
not trackable
E8. Priority shipping, EU1: 2-7 days, 15€ [recommended]

Japan:
E10. Standard shipping, Japan, 6-10 days, 18€ (+7€ for value declaration and insurance)
E11. Priority shipping, Japan, 4-6 days, 22€ (maybe +7€ for value declaration, not sure yet)
E11b. Priority shipping for 3+ controllers, Japan, 4-6 days, 24€ (maybe +7€ for value declaration, not sure yet)



I cannot guarantee that your controller will pass customs. The above times are as quoted by my post office, but not guaranteed unfortunately.

Magus420 donations
Offering the A1-A3 mods with the high accuracy I do them at is only possible because Magus released his physics and input display.
Magus420 has done incredible things for the Smash community, and I feel he is horribly underpaid. So I regularly donate 100+$ to him from the profit I make here.
If you do the A1-A3 mods yourself using his tool, it would be kind of you to donate what you can afford to him through PayPal. He disclosed his account here: http://smashboards.com/threads/physics-input-etc-display-in-develop-mode.391956/#post-18650007
_____________________________________
Please list all the modifications you wish for. Example:
A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2aR, B4R, B5R, C=Smash White, D1, E1

Price for the above would be 25(controller) +20(base fee) +12(A2b/4) +10(A3) +8(B2aR) +2(B4LR) +2(B5R) +3(D1) = 82€, plus 17€ shipping to US = 99€.

The prices are subject to change, as I still have to find an average for the time of work each modification takes. If the prices increase after the moment you send me the money, you will of course pay the old prices, not the new increased ones.

I ask you for the money as soon as I’m finished with your controller! No need to pay me before that, unless you want to make sure that I can send out the controller as soon as possible. (I live in Europe, so for most of you my post office is open while you are asleep.)


Ordering process:
1. Tell me in this thread, in a separate smashboards message or an email (not possible at the moment) which mods you want (in the format shown above). For the latter two options, please also provide me your PayPal account’s email address from the start so I can send you the invoice there.
2. When I can start to work on your controller, I’ll send you a PM (or email) about the total price and order status (which is just the total of the mod prices you requested). For PayPal orders, I will send you the price list as a PayPal invoice that you can pay from there directly.
3. You send me the money through the PayPal invoice or bank transfer (I give you the numbers via email if you want to pay that way). If you want express shipping, please also include a phone number or email address where you will respond quickly to the delivery guys.
4. I finish the controller, ship it and send you the tracking link within two calendar weeks. With your controller, I will include a controller grading sheet with a list of all notch values and the modifications you ordered.
_____________________________________
Current order for submissions (✔ = completed and sent):
1. garrR ✔ paid & received
2. NMW / Shriek ✔ paid & received
3. Armada / Android ✔ paid & received (A3, C=Smash White)
4. Axe ✔ paid & received (A3, B4, C=Smash White)
5. Kyu Puff ✔ paid & received (A3*, A5b, B3LR, B4LR, B5LR, B6L, as well as any other ICs-specific things you can implement *may need to be more precise than normal to ensure both ICs shield drop (?) C=Smash White (base price 22€)
6. Spaghetti, ✔ paid & received (A3 A5 B5LR B6LR, C=Smash White (base price 22€))
7. Reeve ✔ paid & received (A3, B3L, B4L, B5L, B6L, JP White)
8a. hectohertz ✔ paid & sent controller 1: A2b (WSW,ESE), A3, A4F, B3R, B5LR, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2
8b. hectohertz ✔ paid & sent controller 2: A3, A4F, B3R, B5LR, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2
9. Mew2king ✔ paid & received (A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any (weak control stick spring that’s sensitive downward))
10. sincerazero ✔ paid & received (A2b (all 8 octants), A3, B2b, B3L, B4, C=any new one, E2)
11. KoopaTroopa895 ✔ paid & received (A0, A2 (all 8 octants), A3, B4LR, C=JP, E1)
12. edmund-blake-nelson ✔ paid & received (A2 A3 C= Smash White E1)
13. Icefights ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP white)
14. neoshinryu [stopped responding] (A0, A3, B4R, B5R, C = Smash white, E2 [total price: 83€ including shipping]
15. LL.DL ✔ paid & received (A3, B2bLR, C=JP white, D1, E1) [total price: 95€ including shipping]
16. ck800 ✔ paid & received (A0, A2a \ A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B3R, E2, C=JP White) [total price: 130€ including shipping]
17. TC123 ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, B4L, B7Y, C: Smash White, E2) [total price: 89€]
18. Ganobrator (A3, B4LR, B5R, C=JP White, E1) [total price: 84€]
19. MrYaah ✔ paid & received (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, A9, B2bRL, B3R, B4, B5LRABY, B6LR, B7Y, C=SB, D1, D2, E2) [total price: 192€]
20. Forte4Tei 1 ✔ paid & received (A0, A2b (eight octants) A3, B2bLR, B4(LR) B5(R), JP white, E5)
21. Forte4Tei 2 ✔ paid & received (A0, A3 B4(LR) B5(R), JP white, E5) [total price for both: 230€]
22. D-Leo ✔ paid & sent (A3, A4F, B5RY, B7Y, C=(any with weak control stick spring), E2) [total price: 106€]
23. King Funk ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP White, D2b, E7) [total price: 75€]
24. BrTarolg ✔ paid & received (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B1R, B7(y button), D2a, E8, C=JP white) [total price: 145€]
25. Kesa ✔ paid & received (A3, B2bL, B4LR, B5L, B6L,C=JP White,E8) [total: 83€]
26. Sergio91 ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, C=JP, E1) [total: 140$ as agreed on]
27. XVI ✔ paid & received (A2a (ENE,WNW,NNE,NNW,SSE,SSW) A2b (ESE,WSW), A3,B2bL,B3R,B4L,B5L60,B5Y60,B6L,C=JP,E1) [total: 144€]
28. Tafokints ✔ paid & received (A0, A2a, A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=SW, E2) [total: 200$ agreed on]
29. Leffen (no reply, never specified his modification list)
30. Vegard ✔ paid & received (A2a, A3, B6L, E7, C=SW) [total: 120€]
31. Flippy Flippersen ✔ paid & received (A0 A3 B4 C = JP white E8) [total: 80€]
32. AZ Neon ✔ paid & received (A0 A2A(ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) A2B(ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 B4(L,R) B5(L) B7(Y) C=JP White E1)
33. Jeezus_ ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, B4 (Both triggers) B5, C=JP White) [total: 86€+shipping]
34. SwiftBass ✔ paid & sent (A0, A3, B2B C=Japan white)
35. BootyBlast ✔ paid & received (A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LRABY, C=JP, E8)
36. Kounotori ✔ paid & received 1 (C=Clear/gold (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B2bR, B3R, B5LRBY, B6R50, B7YA, E11b)
37. Kounotori ✔ paid & received 2 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R, B5B50Y80)
38. Kounotori ✔ paid & received 3 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R, B5B50)
39. Kounotori ✔ paid & received 4 (C=Clear (sent in), A0, A2a (N), A2b (S), A3, B3R)
40. DaRkStRiDeR2 #1 ✔ paid & received (priority order)
41. DaRkStRiDeR2 #2 ✔ paid & received (priority order)
42. SaltySethSSBM ✔ paid & received (priority order)(A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bLR, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, B7Y, C = Smash White, D2a, E2)
43. beld:✔ paid & received (A2b (ESE,WSW) A3 B3L,C=Smash White, E7) [total: 30€ (gift / only pays for controller and shipping)]
44. reverie2 ✔ paid & sent (PM sent at 19:15 GMT) (A0,A2,A3,B2bLR,B4LR,B5LR,B6LR,B7Y,C=JP white,E2)
45. JarJarBinks ✔ paid & sent (replied at 19:16 GMT) (A0, A2b (ESE, WSW), A2a (all other octants), A3, B2bLR, B4, B5LRABX, B6LR, C=Smash White, E2)
46. SSBM_AEON ✔ paid & received (PM sent at 19:18 GMT)
47. R3N0 ✔ paid & received (Twitter DM sent at 20:33 GMT) (a0 A3 B2BR B4LR B5R B6R C=any new E2)
48. crush ✔ paid & sent [2015-11-16,3:00GMT](A0, A2b (all 8 octants), A3, B5R60, B6R70, C (old controller with less control stick resistance preferred), D2B, E1)
49. whatwhatwhatwhatwhat ✔ paid & sent [2015-11-16,3:09GMT](A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2bLR, B5ABXYLR, B6LR70, B7X, C=JP White, D2b, E3), priority requested
50. Mystic [2015-11-16,3:23GMT](A0 A2a A3 B2b LR B4 LR B5 (R, Y, B, L, A) B6 (LR) B7Y C= JP White E2)
51. grayfox ✔ paid & sent [2015-11-16,4:51GMT] (A0, A3, C=smash white, E8)
52. AlexThe13th [2015-11-16,6:34GMT](A0,A3,B5LY, C=JP White, E2)
53. Vanitas ✔ paid & sent (C=SW front, SB back;A3,A4F,A7,A8,B5L)
54. Hoodcash_ ✔ paid & sent (A0, A3, B1L, C=any, D2b, E1)
55. Ambisinister (A0, a2b (all octants), A3, B4LR (free), B5LR65 (both triggers), C=JP white, E1)
56. no1knows87 ✔ paid & sent (A1, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2a, B5ABXYLR, B6LR70, B7Y, C=JP White, D2b, E2)
57. MikeHaggarTHAKJB (A1 (ESE,WSW), A3, A4D,B3 on R,B4, B6 on L, D2B)
58. LuCKy (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW) A3, B2bL, B5L60, B6L, C=JP White, D2b, E1)
59. loci ✔ paid & sent (A3, B4, C=Smash Black, E2)
60. Liam_Butler [A2a All octants A3 A5 A7 A8b B2b (left trigger) B4 (left trigger) C-Smash White D2A E1 (Note: This will be primarily used for Ice Climbers, so if that changes any of the mods, or there's something IC exclusive I missed, please let me know)]
61. clowsui 2*(A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, A4F, B2bL, B5, B6, C=SBlack, D2, E2)
62. Suidt ✔ paid & sent ((A0, A2B (ESE,WSW) A3, B5, B6, C=SmashBlack, D2b, E2; priority treatment requested)
63. Trip ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2a, A3, C Smash Black, E8)
64. Twinkles ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B4LR, C=Smash white, E1)
65. Boone ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE,WNW,NNE,NNW), 2b (ESE,WSW,SSE,SSW), A3, A4F, A9, B2aL, B4L, B5A50B50Y50L50, B6L50, B7Y, C=Smash Black, D2b, E2)
66. Linney (A0 / A1 (All but ESE,WSW) / A2b (ESE,WSW) / A3,B1L / B3 / B4,C=JP White,D2b,E8)
67. Eddyvon (A2a eight notches, a3, a4f c=jp white, D2b, E1)
68. Gene Parmesan ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW), A3, B5L60, C= JP white, E2) (priority treatment requested)
69. ssbm_silence (A2B, A3, D2B, E1, c=used controller(preferably indigo))
70. Windrose ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2b (all), A3, A9, B2b(LR), B4, B5 (ABXYLR and z if possible), B6 (LR70), B7 (Y), C = smash white), E2), priority treatment requested
71. @vinceprinceking (A3, B4(LR), B5LR70, B6LR70 C=JP White, E7 (to germany))
72. @GhettoTastic ✔ paid & received (A0,A2(S),A3,A4F,B4LR,C=(used), priority treatment requested)
73. @FLiiNcHy (A1 (ESE,WSW),A3 Shield Drop Notches,B1R,C=JP white [but Smash black front and silver back plate])
74. @KirbyKaze ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR80, C=Smash Black)
75. @Druggedfox ✔ paid & received (A3, B1R, C = smash black, E1)
76. @FirePhoenix55 (A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any (weak control stick spring that’s sensitive downward))
77. Brian (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 B4 (L, R) B5 (L, R, Y, B) B7Y, C=SW, D2b)
78. Miguel (A0, A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=SW, E7)
79. @tonic ✔ paid & sent (A2b (S), A3, B2b (L), B4 (LR), B5 (LR), B6 (LR, 70),C = Used (Only if JP White), otherwise Smash Black, E2 (Priority Shipping))
80. @Low5_ ✔ paid & sent (C=SW, A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW) 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B1R, B2bL, B4, B5LR60, B6L70, D2, E3) (priority treatment because I forgot to contact him even though I promised to do so)
81. @Haywire5714 ✔ paid & sent (A3, B2aLR, B4LR, C=Smash White, E1)
82. @Pluplue 1 ✔ paid & received (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB, E2)
83. @Pluplue 2 ✔ paid & received (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
84. @Pluplue 3 ✔ paid & received (A0, A1, A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
85. @kmgamer ✔ paid & sent (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW);b2bLR 40%,B4LR,B6 for Z, C=SB, D1, D2, E2)
86. @Wizzrobe ✔ paid & received (A3, B1R, B3R, B6L, C=Black (old), E2)(priority treatment because I forgot to contact him even though I promised to do so)
87. @Impade ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2aL, B4, B6, C=Smash White, D1, E8)
88. @AGuacworkOrange (A3, B4L, B5L, C=SB, E2)
89. @FuddyDuddy ✔ paid & sent (A0,A2b(ESE, WSW),A3,B1R,B4RL,B5RXY,B6L80,D2a,C=Whichever of new ones is fastest,E2)
90. @Berble (A0, A3, B1R, C = JP white, E2)
91. @nugget61 ✔ paid & sent (A0,A2b,A3,B4lr,B5r,C=Black (Smash or good condition old),D2b)
92. @Shmooguy ✔ paid & sent (A3, B2aL, B4L, B5L70, C=Smash Black/White, D2b, E1)
93. @Unconventional Rhinoceros (A3, C=any with no snapback problems (for perfect turnaround neutral b)and preferably with a tight analog stick (or, if a tight stick isn't possible, at least sensitive downward), US priority shipping.)
94. @skips ✔ paid & sent (A3,B4LR,B5LR 60,B6LR 70,C = JP White (if available), otherwise Smash Black or Smash White,E2 (Canada))
95. Vestboy_Myst Vestboy_Myst (A0 A3 B2bLR B4LR B5L80R80 E1, C = used but as mint as possible / JP white)
96. @Wizzrobe ✔ paid & sent (A3, B1R, B3R, B6L, C=Smash Black, E2)
97. @Alvin Cheong ✔ paid & sent (A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, C=Smash White, E2)
98. @Gr33ns (A0, A1, A3, B1R, b2b, B3(right), B4, B5(left), B7(Y) C= Sm4sh white, E2)
99. @VentusSSBM (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) ,A3, B2a R , B4 r, B5 r, B7, Y, C= Smash white)
100. @Krizski ✔ paid & sent (A2, A3, B2aLR, B4, B7Y, C=SW + smooth ridges,E2)
101. @MHTak (A0, A3, B4R, B4L, C=JP White, E8)
102. @eet (A3, B2b(R), B4, C= Smash White, E2)
103. @MultipLe (contacted through email) (A3, B4, C=SW, E2)
104. Andrew M. (contacted through email) (A2a (ESE, WSW), A3, B4, C=SW and E2)
105. @Darkseid395 ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2(ESE,WSW),A3,B1R,B4LR,B5LR60,C=SB, priority treatment requested, E2)
106. @Chrozon (A0,A3,B4LR,C=SW,E8)
107. (88.5) @TimeMuffinPhD ✔ paid & sent (2*SW, 2*A2b, 2*A3, 2*B5(ABXYLR), 1*(B7Y), 1*(B4LR,D2b), E8)
108. Fiona C. ✔ paid & received (A3, B4L, C=SB,E8)
109. PatSheezy / @TrenchFoot ✔ paid & received (A0, A3, B4LR, C=Smash Black, D2b E8)
110. Michael D. (Email) ✔ paid & sent (A3, C=SW,E1)
111. @Gahtzu ✔ paid & sent (A0, A3, B1R, B4L, B4R, B5L, C=SB (if u still have black), E3, priority treatment requested)
112. @Imyt ✔ paid & sent (A0,A3,B2b,B3L,B4R,B5ABXYLR,B6R,C=SB)
113. Griffin W. (Email) / @Captain Faceroll ✔ paid & sent (A0, A3, B4LR, B5R, C=any/fastest/black), E2)
114. @advanced (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B7Y,C - Silver controller, the least snapback as possible (i laser a lot),E2)
115. @BirdmanJR (C=old original gamecube black controller, A3,B2bLR,B3R,B4L,B5L,B5ABXYLR,B6L,B7XY)
116. @Schwiftyyy (A0, A3, B2bR, B3R, B4LR, B5R, B6L70, B7Y, C=Smash White, E8)
117. Charles-A. (A3, B1L, B3L, B4, B5ABY60, B6Z80, C=Smash White, (E2 or E8))
118. @Endeby (A0, A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6L, C=SW, E8 (Norway))
119. Alex S. (C=Smash,A0,A2b,A3,B2bLR,B4LR,B5ABRY,B7Y,D2a,E5)
120. Daniel B. / Dragon (A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,C=SW,E8)
121. Sesh E.
122. @Icefights
123. @MaPow (C=Smash/any, A2b(ESE,WSW),A3,B1R,B3R,D1,D2b, E2)
124. Professor Pro (Email) (A3,B4LR,B5L70,B7Y,C=SB,E8)
125. @darkatma 1 (email)(A3, B4LR, B5R, C=smash white, E2)
126. @darkatma 2 (email)(A3, B4LR, B5R, C=smash black, E2)
127. @HugS™ ✔ paid & sent (A3, B2a, A0, A stiff but not Smash 4 controller, a cheap used controller preferred but if possible not orange, anything but that please!)
128. @Atrioc {email} (A2, A3, A4F, B2bR B4R, B5R70, C=SB, E2)
129. Colbol {email} (A3, B4LR, B7Y, C=SB, E2; possibly A0 depending on new measurement results)
130. @Didact25 (A0,A3, B2a(LR), B4(LR), B5L70,B7Y, C=Smash+clear front shell (sent in),E2)
131. Oppa / Heyden T. (email) (A0,A2b(S),A3,C=SW,E2)
132. @Mahie (A3, low snapback (need to do some more research on it))
133. Tyler V. (email) (A0,A2b,A3,A4F,B2bLR,B4LR,B5LRABXY,B6LRZ,B7AY+extra A button,C=JP 08 white new [60-80€],D2a)
134. Kevin W. (email) (A0,A3,B4LR,B5L,C=Smash(any),E2)
135. Jeromy H. (email) (A0,A2b(ESE,WSW),A3, B4LR,C=Smash(any),E2)
136. @FSU_pawN (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B4LR, B5LR40, B7BY, C = SW, E2)
137. Samuel D. (email) (A0, A2a (ENE,WNW), A3, B3 (FOR R TRIGGER ONLY), B4 (FOR L TRIGGER ONLY), B5L70 (no R adjustment), B7 (Y button height decrease), C (Smash white/any, back dashes consistently w/o exaggerated press, looser stick preferred but still sensitive down in particular), E4 standard shipping (Australia))
138. @Felerian / Martin H. (email) (A3,B4LR,B5LR,B7Y,C=[low snapback, triggers not getting stuck],E8)
139. David A. (email) ✔ paid & sent (A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bR0,B4LR,B5R,B6LR, priority treatment requested , E5)
140. Daniel P. @Telsar (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), A2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3, B2bR, B4LR, B5RX, B6R70, D1, D2b, C=SW, E2)
141. Luke P. (email) (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bL30R0, B5LRABX)
142. @Tr1F0rc3 ✔ paid & sent (A0, A2 (ESE, WSW), A3, B1L B2bR, B4R, B5R, B6R, priority treatment requested)
143. @Logos (A3, C=Smash White,E2)
144. @Kyball (A0,A3,B5ABXY,B7Y,C=Smash Black,E2)
145. Susan O. (email) (A2a,A3,B2aR,C=old black or white)
146. @i4n (A0,A2b(ESE,WSW),A3,B4LR,B5LABXY,D2b,C=SB,E2)
147. @Pluplue 4 (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
148. @Pluplue 5 (A3, B4R, B5R, C=SB)
149. @ElRudo (A2b,A3,A9,B2bR30,B4,B5ABYLR,B6RZ70,B7BY,C=JP08(used),E1)
150. @Eliitti (A2b (ESE,WSW), A3, B2bLR40, B4LR, B5LR50, B6LRZ60, C=Smash Black or White, E8)
151. @Smooth_One (A3,B5R,C=[unspecified],E1]
152. @Samio25 (A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A3, B2bL, B4LR, B5L, C=Smash Black, D2b, E8)
153. @Swayko ✔ paid & sent (A0, A3, B4L, B7Y, C smash white, priority treatment requested)
154. @Fugus (A0,A2b (ESE,WSW),A3,B4R,B5R60,B6R70,C=Smash (any),D2,E2 [Canada])
155. @dooweey (A0, A2 (ESE,WSW) A3, B2bL, B5L60, B6L, C=Smash Black, D2b, E1)
156. @Advanced_Darkness (A0, A2b, A3, C=smash black front / Clear back, E2)
157. @ElCancell 1 ✔ paid & sent [A3, A4F, B4LR, B5R, C=SW, E2, priority treatment fee paid]
158. @ElCancell 2 ✔ paid & sent [A3, B2bR60, B4(LR), B5(A70)(B70)(X70)(L70)(R70), B6(Z), B7(X) A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW), A4F, C=SB, E2, priority treatment fee paid]
159. Jullian C. (email) (A2b "ESE,WSW", A3, B2bR, B5RABXZ, B6R, C=any with weak control stick spring that's sensitive downward, E2)
160. @Zorc Of Norway [email provided] (A3,C=SW,E8)
161. @ArcNatural [email provided] (A3 B4LR B5LR B7Y CSB E2)
162. Charlezard Charlezard [email provided] (A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,B6LR70,C=SB,D2a,E2)
163. @chokingvictim3 (A2b (full), A3, B2bR, B3R, B5LRBY, B6R50, B7YA,C - Pearl White [bought for 40€],E2)
164. @Killopotamus (A3 B3L C= Platinum/Silver D2A E2)
165. Kaoak Kaoak (A3 B4, B5L,B6L, S1, C=Any with a high dash back success rate and low control stick resistance)
166. @D E F I A N T [email address given] (A3, B4LR, B5LR, B6LR, D2a, C=SmashWhite, E2)
167. @unknown522 (A0, A3, B4 (L Button), B5 (A, B, Y), C=SB,E2 (Canada))
168. @illwill132 (A3, B2bL, B6L, C=Smash Black, E2)
169. @link2213 [email address given] (A0, A3, B2aR, B4R, C=SB, E2)
170. @SpaceWaste7 (A2 (ESE,WSW), C=Pearl White / high stick spring resistance, E2)
171. @amidaes 2*(A0, A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW),A3,B5L60R10,B6L70,B7X,C = whatever is fastest,D1,E3)
172. @MJN Pilot ( A0 A2a (ENE, WNW, NNE, NNW), 2b (ESE, WSW, SSE, SSW) A3 A4F B2a(R) B3(L) B4(L/R) B5(R) C=JP White (new 80€) E8)
173. @lalunus2 [email address given] (A0, A3, B4, C= Smash White, E2)
174. @MrLui (A3, B2aL, B4, C=Smash Black, E2)
175. Thomas B. (Facebook, exception – I don't generally take orders from FB) (A3, B4LR,B5R,C=SW,E8)
178. D darcel (hockeysean3@outlook.com) - A3, C=Smash Black, E2)
 
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