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WTS Kadano's controller mods (consistent shield drops, hybrid gate &more) (list with details and prices)

Discussion in 'Customization Services' started by Kadano, Oct 20, 2015.

  1. Zarklord

    Zarklord
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    Alright that's good to know if you are willing to try let me know...
     
  2. CFMV

    CFMV
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    "The Marf"

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    Hey Kadano would you be willing to document your new method for doing B2b (trigger point elevation) mod? I will donate for your effort.

    I ended up using your original method and it worked out pretty well.

    [​IMG]

    I used thick packaging plastic instead of a plastic bottle, which I had to heat up with a lighter and wrap around a screwdriver to be able to roll it up.
     
    #282 CFMV, Jun 30, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2016
  3. Kadano

    Kadano
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    I buy long wood staves with a diameter of 5 mm, use my Olfa blade to reduce the diameter to 4.8 mm and cut it into pieces of about 20.25 mm length (20.25 mm is the default spacer length, if the customer specifies more or less B2b percents, I keep it shorter or longer respectively).
     
    Synnett likes this.
  4. Zarklord

    Zarklord
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    that megaminx in the background...
    what your best time?
     
  5. CFMV

    CFMV
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    "The Marf"

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    I haven't actually timed it but it usually takes me 3-4 minutes. I developed my own algorithm so it's probably not as optimal as some of the algorithms you can find online but I like doing it my way
     
  6. Zarklord

    Zarklord
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    about same for me(timing wise)...
     
    #286 Zarklord, Jul 1, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
  7. Archelon

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    Would the Ice Climber solo jump and solo smash modifications be difficult for someone like myself to make? Thanks.
     
    #287 Archelon, Jul 22, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2016
  8. Kadano

    Kadano
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    I don't know how much experience you personally have with perfecting notch values. ICs solo notches require very high precision, so it would certainly be difficult, even if you are very experienced.
     
  9. ridemyboat

    ridemyboat
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    @Kadano, would you be willing to write a little bit about the odd potentiometer?
     
  10. Kaoak

    Kaoak
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    If you could add snapback removal (S1) to my controller mod that'd be sweet (if you will still modify orders). I read up about it on your twitter just recently.
     
  11. Snormax Miltank

    Snormax Miltank
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    I tried out my buddies modded controller and loved it, but im not an expert on these types of mods....can someone tell me which control stick mods would best benefit me as a sheik player, thanks!
     
  12. Nate Blumentritt

    Nate Blumentritt
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    Hey i was considering buying a controller but i noticed there hasnt been a post on here in like a year. Do you still make these controllers?
     
  13. Kadano

    Kadano
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    I will open for new controllers again tomorrow, 2016-11-16, on 20:00 UTC. (20 hours from now.) Every order requested in this thread after this point of time or sent through a Smashboards PM will be added to the batch "2016 November 1" afterwards.

    To prevent similarly long waiting lists in the future, I will not keep a general queue from now on, but only per-batch ones. Each controller in a batch will be shipped at once. One batch includes 20 orders and will be shipped on Thursday every week. One order may not include more than 4 controllers at this point.

    People from the old queue in the original post still deserve to be served first.If they let me know that they still want their requested order, they will be added into the next open batch immediately.
    The same is true for people who I've sold controllers to in the past that became faulty, repairing these has priority, of course.

    Batch 2016 November 1 (will be shipped by 2016-11-24):
    # Player name Mod list Additional requests and details
    1 1 PatSheezy / @TrenchFoot (SW) [shipped] Repair and servicing, from old queue
    2 2 @chokingvictim3 (PW) [shipped] Repair and servicing, from old queue
    3 3 @Kaoak JP08 [A3 B4, B5L,B6L, S2b] [shipped] Paid, from old queue
    4 4 @Charlezard SW+SB [A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,B6LR75,D2a,E2], shells swapped [paid]
    5 5 @ozymandy SW [A0,A3,B4LR,B7Y] Unpaid, from old queue
    6 6 @Gahtzu SB [A3,A6,B1R,B4LR,B5L] Unpaid, new order (sent via PM)
    7 7 TrailmonX (same controller and mods as before) [shipped] Paid, new order (sent via PM)
    8 8 @wAwA JP08 [A0,A3,B2b,B4LR,D2a],E2 Unpaid, (new order)
    9 9 @levup 1*SW,1*SB [A3,B4LR,B5R,S2b(SB only)],E2 Unpaid, new order
    10 10 @Geras SW [A0,A3,B4LR,B6LR,S2],E2 Consistent dash backs requested, but not mandatory
    11 11 @Tipo mastr SW [A0,A3,B2a,B4,B5L60,B6L75R50,B7Y] Unpaid, new order
    12 12 @-Spark- (any controller with no snapback and high dash back) [A3,B2bL40R40,B3L,B4LR,B5L,B6LR,B7Y,D1,D2a,S2(+on C-stick if necessary) Unpaid, new order
    13 13 @DuckPimp SW [A3,B4LR,B5LR,B6LR75],E2 Unpaid, new order
    14 14 @TrebaxTV Undisclosed Unpaid, new order
    15 15 @Stijn SW [A2,B2a],E8 Unpaid, new order (sent via PM), Consistent dash backs requested, but not mandatory
    16 16 @Drake_Azure JP08 [A2,A3,B4LR (if necessary),B5LR,B6LR,D2a,S2?],E1 Unpaid, new order (via PM)
    17 17 @Comcom SB [A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,B7XY,S2],E8 Unpaid, new order (via PM)
    18 18 @R2DLIU (any with good dash back) [A3] Unpaid, new order, Tight sticks and consistent dash backs requested, if these are mandatory, order might be discarded (impossible for me to achieve right now)
    19 19 @DiZZ (any with very good dash back) [A3,(new triggers)] Unpaid, new order (via PM), Consistent dash backs requested, if these are mandatory, order might be discarded (impossible for me to achieve right now)
    20 20 @Flippy Flippersen JP08 [A0,A3,B4],E8 Unpaid, new order


    Batch 2016 December 1 (will be shipped by 2016-12-01:
    # Player name Mod list Additional requests and details


    Batch 2016 December 2 (will be shipped by 2016-12-08:
    # Player name Mod list Additional requests and details
     
    #293 Kadano, Nov 15, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2016
    Charlezard likes this.
  14. Charlezard

    Charlezard
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    Hi Kadano,

    I'm still on the old list (here's my old post from March): https://smashboards.com/threads/kad...etails-and-prices.421137/page-6#post-20965928

    I'd like to keep this order, but with a few small modifications, so here's the new order form:
    • Two Smash 4 controllers, one white and one black, each with the following modifications
    • A0
    • A3
    • B2b
    • B4LR
    • B6L75R75
    • D2a
    • E2
    • Shells swapped, so that one is white on top and black on bottom, and the other is black on top and white on bottom
    Thank you!!
    charlesrmadere@gmail.com
     
    #294 Charlezard, Nov 15, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2016
    Kadano likes this.
  15. levup

    levup
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    My bad I misread what you posted. Ill post again when it reopens! Sorry!
     
    #295 levup, Nov 15, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2016
  16. wAwA

    wAwA
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    Hi Kadano,

    I am looking to order a jp08 white with:

    A0
    A3
    B2b
    B4
    D2a

    Shipping: E2

    I live in New York City.

    Thanks,
    Wawa
     
    #296 wAwA, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2016
  17. levup

    levup
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    Hey Kadano,
    I'd like to order 2 smash 4 controllers, one black and one white
    A3
    B4 (both triggers)
    B5 (R)
    S2 (just on the black one)
    E2
    Thank you!!
    Brianslacrosse@hotmail.com
     
    #297 levup, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  18. Geras

    Geras
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    GerassN
    Hey Kadano!

    I'd like to order one of those sweet controllers with the following mods:
    • A0
    • A3
    • B4LR
    • B6LR
    • S2
    The shipment would be E2 and the controller can be either Smash 4 controller (although preferably the white one).
    An additional request would be that the controller can do consistent dash backs. Send me a PM for contact info.

    Thanks in advance!
     
    #298 Geras, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  19. Tipo mastr

    Tipo mastr
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    I'd like to make an order! This is HRC Typo, btw.

    If I'm missing any info please let me know, I will edit this post asap to make it work.

    a0
    a3
    B2a
    B4
    B5L60
    B6L75R50
    B7Y
    C = smash white

    mbassett1451@gmail.com <--- is also my paypal
     
    #299 Tipo mastr, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  20. -Spark-

    -Spark-
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    3DS FC:
    1134-8504-6072
    NNID:
    Spark676
    I don’t know if I’m allowed to ask this but I prefer any controller with a very good dashback (I like to flick the stick quickly in other to do sheik's extended dash dance without an accidental slow turnaround, dash back out of crouch is also pretty important to me) and no snapback (probably wouldn’t like JP white though since it’s €90), if you have any controllers like that available. If you don't have any without snapback, do S2. I don’t mind too much about ledgedash.

    A3 (shielddrop notches both sides)

    B2bL40R40

    B3L

    B4LR

    B5L

    B6LR

    B7Y

    D1- if the mass of the c-stick knob causes snapback, please do S2 to it as well.

    D2a

    S2-both sticks if D1 causes c-stick to have snapback, otherwise just analog stick if it has snapback


    spark676@gmail.com or twitter.com/spark676 :)
     
  21. DuckPimp

    DuckPimp
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    EDIT- if you were planning to ever get to this order, dont worry about it

    lol
     
    #301 DuckPimp, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2017
  22. TrebaxTV

    TrebaxTV
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    Hi Kadano

    I havent used smashboards much as im a fairly new member and still getting the hang of it so didnt know how to PM.

    Im looking to be added to your list to have a modded controller, would love to own and use one!

    My email address is trebaxtv@gmail.com if you could contact me when can to discuss what i would like you to do :-)

    Many thanks
    Craig
     
  23. Omensha

    Omensha
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    Hi, wrote you a PM on smashboards.
     
  24. Comcom

    Comcom
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    Hi Kadano ,

    i would llike to order a smash black controller with the following mods:

    (A0,A3,B5XYABR,B6R70,B7XY, C=SB,E8, S2)

    E-Mail is laseryeti@gmail.com and im living in Germany , Rheinland Pfalz
     
    #304 Comcom, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  25. R2DLIU

    R2DLIU
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    Right behind you.
  26. Stijn

    Stijn
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    I wrote you a PM :)
     
  27. Foxy

    Foxy
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    Hello - I was considering the modifications and I have a question!

    For what reason do more people prefer the A3 over the A2 controller gate mod? Is it a matter of the price difference?

    I'd primarily like a controller gate mod that benefits shield dropping. Is A3 objectively better than A2 for that purpose? Is A2 also useful for shield drops? I would prefer to go with A2, but not if it's inferior for shield drops.
     
  28. Flippy Flippersen

    Flippy Flippersen
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    Can I order A0 A3 B4 C = JP white E8 again? I really like your controller
     
  29. Kadano

    Kadano
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    With the 20 incoming orders so far, the November 1 batch is full. I'll do my best to complete all of these controllers as soon as possible.

    For those who requested a high back dash rate, I will measure all the used controllers I have in stock to find out how many of them have the potentiometer glitch. Please understand that depending on how many I have with the properties, I might ask more for these controllers.
    Orders that insist on a high back dash rate that exceeds my supply will be removed, I'd rather not take an order at all than take it and deliver less than expected.

    Hey Foxy,
    The A2 notches are separate from A3. A3 gives shield drop notches, A2 gives hybrid gate notches that prevent hitting the cardinal dead zones by accident. The two mods are compatible with each other, so A2 does not impact shield drops, and yes, a complete A2 hybrid gate is more pricey due to its difficulty in doing just right and the necessary time to perfect all the notches.
     
  30. Foxy

    Foxy
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    Ah, then I'll have to consider A2 and A3 together. Thanks for the clarification Kadano.
     
    #310 Foxy, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  31. Reeve

    Reeve
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    Hey @Kadano , I would like to place an order with these specifications

    A3, B4L, B5L (70% of original click), B6L80, D2

    I would also prefer a controller that has good dash back if at all possible. You can contact me at a.reed99@hotmail.com , I'm much more active there than on smashboards.

    Thanks!
     
  32. Eric22

    Eric22
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    Hey Kadano, I would like to place an order of:
    A2
    A3
    B4R
    B5R
    c=smash white
    E2
    Good dash back would be preferable but not necessary, you can contact me at ecolom2@gmail.com
    thanks in advance!
     
  33. ColtFreeman

    ColtFreeman
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    @Kadano
    I would like to order a controller!
    All I would like to have done is sheild drop notches. I believe it's A3?
    I'm from United States, Alabama, Birmingham
    My E-mail is Kingslasma@gmail.com
    Kingslasma@gmail.com is also associated with my paypal.
    I've never used this website before, so sorry ahead of time if my message is missing information
    Please contact me in some way if you see this!
    Thanks
     
    #313 ColtFreeman, Nov 18, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2016
  34. Niels91

    Niels91
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    Hey Kadano, I did send you a pm with my order specifications.
     
  35. NFreak

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    [disregard this post, will hit you up later!]
     
    #315 NFreak, Nov 18, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2017
  36. Kadano

    Kadano
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    I noticed that I haven't really documented snapback, the physical specifics of the capacitor mod and the smash turn potentiometer oddity / glitch in an easy-to-understand format. This post will give a basic run-down of that, in a simple way that focuses on an in-game perspective, and afterwards I'll write a post that's more in-detail for those who are interested in the precise technical and electrical workings.

    This is the one reference post on my up-to-date stock in used controllers, see table at the bottom.


    1. Potentiometers (basic)
    Potentiometers are the black parts connected to the stickboxes that read the position of the control stick.
    [​IMG]
    The one below the stickbox reads horizontal movements while the one to the right side of the stickbox reads vertical movements.

    Twice per frame (every 8.3 ms), the control stick is polled by the console. Once per frame, the game uses the last poll to calculate the character inputs.

    2. Snapback (basic)
    The stickbox contains a spring that is responsible for returning the stick to the neutral position after every input.
    Because the pastic stick knob has a mass and thus inertia, during flick inputs (letting go of the stick from full or almost full extension) the stick knob will vibrate around the neutral position, similar to a pendulum.
    Here is a slowed down video that shows this:

    After about three cycles left and right, the stick comes to a rest. (With the gfycat controls at the bottom right of the video, you can adjust speed to see the vibration movements more clearly.)
    Since, during these vibrations, the stick knob overextends to the opposite direction, this input is also registered by the potentiometer.
    Here is a screenshot of voltage measurements taken with an oscilloscope:
    [​IMG]
    On controllers with technically properly functioning potentiometers, the electrical readings will follow the physical movements of the stick and over-extend beyond the dead zone (illustrated by the cyan and magenta lines), which causes directional inputs in-game. For example, if you want to do a neutral-B to the left and use flick inputs to do so as quickly as possible, with the controller measured here, about every third time, the neutral-B will go towards the right instead.
    Why every third time? To calculate the chances of the control stick being polled, you simply divide the range with a given property (5 ms here for snapback) by the length of a frame (16.67 ms). 5/16.67 equals 0.3, which is almost a third.

    It is possible to prevent the snapback problem by learning different thumb input methods, however all in all I don't think they are a good choice. If you still want to read on and try them yourself, please refer to the second more in-depth post (section 3).

    3. The tilt turn issue (basic)
    When you want to dash backwards from the standing animation (Wait), it takes about 5-8 ms to move through the tilt turn range with your thumb. If the control stick is being polled during this time, you get a tilt turn, which delays the start of your dash by 4-8 frames.
    The unwanted rate of tilt turns can be calculated by dividing the time spent in the tilt turn range (can only be measured with an oscilloscope) by 16.67. Here is a diagram that shows this:
    [​IMG]
    This time spent in tilt turn range is the rise / fall time (rise for inputs to the right, fall time for inputs to the left) and will from now on be referred to as RFT.
    The problem here is not located in the control stick or in your own input, as humans clearly can't be expected to move their thumbs at the speed of light (which is what would be necessary for 100% smash turn rate). At fault here is the programming of the turn animation. I've proposed adopting a code Magus420 wrote in all tournament setups to eliminate this problem, but until we get there (if ever), people rightfully want other ways to achieve RFTs shorter than shown above, which brings me to the next section:

    4. The potentiometer oddity (basic)
    With usage, some controllers undergo degradation within the potentiometer that introduces skipping in input levels. Sometimes, the degradation exists to a degree where the tilt turn rate is decreased drastically. It's referred to as "potentiometer oddity", "potentiometer phenomenon" or as "potentiometer glitch". I will use the abbreviation "PODE" from now on (Potentiometer Oddity Degradation Effect), and grade potentiometers by their PODE strength.

    4.1 RFT effect of the potentiometer oddity degradation effect
    Here is an example comparison of a controller without this oddity, one that does have it to a lesser degree and one with high degradation effect:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ↑If the skipping part (where the yellow signal line drops from neutral much slower than expected) had stayed a bit further up within the dead zone, the fall time would have been much better. In fact, on this controller the RFT is more often than not really good, this reading was just one of a few unlucky ones.

    [​IMG]
    ↑Here, the degradation effect is near-maximum. The skipping part stays completely within the dead zone, which is what we want.

    4.2 Snapback elimination caused by the PODE
    The skipping of the oddity also eliminates snapback sometimes. The degradation is, however, very volatile and can easily disappear or just not happen occasionally.

    Here is an input recording series where the PODE eliminates snapback every time:
    [​IMG]

    Just a few seconds later, on the very same controller, however, some of the inputs were not affected by the PODE sufficiently:
    [​IMG]

    About three minutes later, without touching the inner parts of the controller, I suddenly had snapback on all the input samples in one series:
    [​IMG]

    To sum this part up, snapback is often taken care of by the PODE, but not always consistently so.


    5. Capacitor mod for snapback removal (S2) (basic)
    While ideally we would want to fix the snapback problem by eliminating the physical over-extension and vibration of the stick knob after flick inputs, doing so with silicone grease has led to different problems in the past (the grease got pushed into the inside of the potentiometer and messed up inputs badly), so my current standard method to fix snapback is adding a capacitor that's just large enough to smoothen out the vibration.
    If you don't know what a capacitor is, to explain it very quickly it's a buffering device that's charged by the capacitor signal pin and takes a small bit of the voltage away from the signal path.

    Important: the one impracticality to the capacitor mod is that with it, you always need to reset the controller by holding X+Y+Start for three seconds after plugging it in. This only needs to be done once after plugging in, it's never necessary to do this a second time until you re-plug the controller.
    On Wii Nintendont setups where Native Control is not enabled, the X+Y+Start combination doesn't work properly. I recommend always pressing the following button combination when using a Wii that's not yours: R+Z+B+D-pad down. If the Wii does not have Native Control enabled, you will be taken back to the Homebrew Channel. In that case, open Nintendont (should be the default highlighted app), and after selecting SD/USB device, press B to enter the settings menu. Scroll down to "Native Control" and set it to "ON".

    Here are flick inputs on one controller, yellow is without a capacitor, green is with a 1000 nF (105 or 1 µF) capacitor:
    [​IMG]
    With the 1µF capacitor, there is never in-game snapback. RFT are also hardly affected, so there is no delay that could affect inputs on controllers without the PODE.
    On controllers with the PODE, however, RFT are impacted and can't go below roughly 2.6 ms, regardless of input method. To take care of that case, so that you are not limited by the capacitor by the time your controller develops the PODE (if ever), I do the capacitor mod in a way in which you can remove the capacitor yourself easily. No soldering tools are necessary, just a triwing screwdriver (if you don't have one, I can include one for +1$ starting in about 2016-12-18 or so when I receive a new batch of them).
    Here is a photo of how my capacitor mod looks like inside:
    [​IMG]
    The wires are female jumper wires, the capacitor's legs are just pushed in and provide mechanical electrical connection, without solder. The wires themselves are soldered to the potentiometer pins and secured against mechanical force with hot glue.
    Instructions on how to do this mod yourself are in the second in-detail post.

    5.1. When should you replace or remove the capacitor?
    5.1.1 It's possible that you do get in-game snapback after a while. This is because the grease inside the stickbox can be used up, making the stick vibrate and over-extend more. Because of this, I always include one ceramic 1µF capacitor if I installed a smaller capacitor in the female jumper wires. 1µF has always been enough to completely eliminate snapback on every controller I've measured so far.
    If you do get in-game snapback and want to install the 1µF capacitor ("105" label print), refer to section 5.2 on how to replace the capacitor.
    If you find that snapback has returned, but the installed capacitor is already a 1µF one, please contact me directly (with a reply in this thread, ideally, but private messages work too) and I can find a solution for you.

    5.1.2 It's also possible that after six months or so, your controller does develop the PODE (see section 4 above for details) and you can safely remove the capacitor and enjoy the increased smash turn rates, yet still have no snapback.
    It's not possible to detect this PODE in-game while the capacitor is installed. If you want to check for PODE, you'll have to open the controller, remove the capacitor, and then test in-game. If you find there to still be snapback without the capacitor, the PODE likely has not developed, or at least not in full strength yet and I recommend putting the capacitor again in that case. Read on for the details on how to do so.

    5.2. How to replace the capacitor
    To replace the capacitor, simple pull it out with one hand while holding both of the black female jumper wire headers with the other hand. Do not pull on the wire as you could damage the headers or the solder points on the controller board this way.

    For replacing the capacitor, please read the paragraph below carefully:
    Depending on my current stock, I either include electrolytical or ceramic capacitors. In the photo above, the large cylindrical capacitor is a an electrolytical one.
    Electrical capacitors do not function in a symmetrical way, so it's absolutely necessary that you insert it in the correct orientation. If you put them in with the wrong orientation, the capacitor will most probably die as soon as you plug the controller into a console.
    I always solder in two female jumper wires of different colors to make this easier for you. In the photo above, there is a yellow and a green wire. The wire that has a lighter color or closer to red will always be signal (+), while the wire with a darker color is always ground (−). In electrolytical capacitors, the − pin always has a shorter leg and a grey stripe print on its body shell. This − pin of the capacitor should also be inserted into the − jumper wire. So if you have a yellow and a green wire, the shorter leg (−) goes into the green wire, and the longer leg (+) goes into the yellow wire.
    Another way of telling is looking at which wire is soldered to the leftmost pin on the backside of the PCB. The left pin is signal (needs the longer capacitor leg), the right pin is ground (needs the shorter capacitor leg).

    If you are not sure you understand this part properly and want to replace your capacitor, please ask me beforehand on how you think it's correct to do it, telling me which color wires you have in the controller, so I can give you a clear answer on the correct orientation.

    With ceramic capacitors, which have a smaller body (see photo below) and legs of equal length, orientation does not matter at all and you can insert them either way.

    If you want to replace your smaller installed capacitor for the larger included 1µF one, you can find that capacitor within the back shell of the controller, where I clip it around the + element of the shell:
    [​IMG]

    Note: On controllers that need a 1µF capacitor from the start, I'll still include 1-2 spare 1µF capacitors so that you have replacements in case your initial one stops working. Ceramic capacitors are very durable and should last decades usually, however their capacity can drop after about a year slightly. If that happens, try replacing it with one of the spare 1µF capacitors first, please.


    6. Current used controllers stock, including stick properties
    I measure all my used controllers for PODE (refer to section 4 if this term confuses you), by carving off a bit of the black trigger holder to make space for the female jumper wires, soldering said wires to the potentiometer pin, securing with hot glue and then taking measurements and saving them with my oscilloscope.

    This is a lot of work, but necessary to do to grade controllers for PODE reliably. To be able to afford it, I will ask +10€ in addition to the other mod prices you go for when you choose a controller of this list. However, since the wires are already present, this also means that I include the capacitor mod S2 for free, unless you tell me specifically that you don't want it because you don't care about snapback.

    Because used controllers vary so much in quality and I need a way to let people choose how much a given controller is worth to them, there is bidding for individual ones. You can simply bid +0€ to "claim" a controller and will get it if nobody else bids higher within 2-7 days.
    Bids run for one week at most (starting with day of first bid), I can accept the currently highest bid two days after the first bid though. They can be sent through replies here or private messages / tweets or direct messages at me.

    To make this clear: The bid prices are in addition to the other prices. So, for example, if you bid 20€ for the JPU8 controller, and also want to have shield drops (A3 mod, see list in this thread's first post), the total cost will be:
    40€ for the controller itself
    20€ service fee
    20€ for the shield drop mod
    10€ for the grading (only applies to controllers in the list below, not new Smash White or Smash Black controllers)
    20€ bid to claim the controller against others
    16€ shipping
    For a total of 126€.

    Graded controllers, all prepared for measuring and snapback elimination (female jumper wires soldered to pins 2 and 3 of the horizontal control stick potentiometer):
    # Controller name code Stickbox type PODE degree RFT from thumb-rest RFT (PATI) Pictures Snapback present? Current max bid by:
    1 1 OBUh6 3 ~75% 2.6ms [84% ST] 1.0ms [94%] Google Drive folder (37) Yes, rarely 1. leffen 80€, started 2016-11-19
    2 2 JPU4 3 ~45% 6.8ms [59% ST] 0.8ms [95%] Google Drive folder (5) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
    3 3 JPU5 3 ~30% 6.4ms [62% ST] 2.2ms [87%] Google Drive folder (5) Yes, low-mid Sold to Kaoak
    4 4 JPU6 3 ~10% 6.4ms [62% ST] 3.4ms [80%] Google Drive folder (4) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
    5 5 JPU8 3 ~80% 2.4ms [86% ST] 1.4ms [92%] Google Drive folder (15) No, never Anonymous-1 70€ 2016-11-19, bid accepted 2016-11-22
    6 6 JPU10 3 ~40% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.0ms [88%] Google Drive folder (15) Yes, not always, low No bids yet
    7 7 JPU11 3 ~30% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.4ms [86%] Google Drive folder (11) Yes, low No bids yet
    8 8 JPU12 3 ~25% 6.5ms [61% ST] 2.8ms [83%] Google Drive folder (9) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
    9 9 JPU13 3 ~50% 8.0ms [52% ST] 2.8ms [83%] Google Drive folder (5) No, never @Niels91 10€, started 2016-11-20
    10 10 JPU14 3 ~15% 7.6ms [54% ST] 3.6ms [78%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
    11 11 JPU15 3 ~0% 6.2ms [63% ST] 3.2ms [81%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes No bids yet
    12 12 JPU16 3 ~55% 6.6ms [60% ST] 1.4ms [92%] Google Drive folder (4) No, never 1. wAwA 50€, 2. @Vestboy_Myst 40€, started 2016-11-19
    13 13 JPU17 3 ~20% 8.2ms [51% ST] 3.8ms [76%] Google Drive folder (4) Yes, low-mid No bids yet
    14 14 JPM18 3 ~5% 6.4ms [62% ST] 3.6ms [78%] Google Drive folder (6) Yes No bids yet
    15 15 EMU4 2 ~0% 7.4ms [55% ST] 3.4ms [80%] Google Drive folder (9) Yes No bids yet

    PODE degree: Rough estimation of how strong the Potentiometer Oddity Degradation Effect is compared to the theoretical maximum. 30% PODE is the threshold from which on there are increases in smash turn rate with pre-accelerated thumb inputs. 60% PODE is the threshold from which on there are increases in smash turn rate with thumb-rest inputs.
    I expect controllers with 10-50% PODE to have a high chance to develop 60% PODE or more within a few weeks or months of usage, but I can't guarantee this, since I haven't done extensive tests on this yet, which would also be difficult for me to do because I don't have the time to play in a dozen of controllers at once.
    For controllers with <30% PODE, I estimate the PODE percentage by the irregularities within the signal line.
    The PODE is not entirely linear / one-dimensional. It's possible for a controller with 50% PODE to have no snapback (JPU13), but for a controller with 75% PODE to still have snapback occasionally. The PODE percentages here refer to the effect on smash turn rates.

    RFT from thumb-rest: Average rise and fall times when doing thumb-rest inputs (starting the dash back input motion with the thumb resting on top of the stick). Average on controllers with 0% PODE is about 7 ms [58%]. In brackets: smash turn success rate (calculated by RFT/16.67).

    RFT (PATI)
    : Average rise and fall times when doing pre-accelerated thumb inputs (starting the dash back input motion with the thumb accelerating in the air towards the stick.) Average on controllers with 0% PODE is about 3.4 ms [80%].

    The pictures include at least 2 oscilloscope screenshots and usually a photo of the controller to show condition. Sometimes, I took the photo while the controller was connected to the oscilloscope, so the back shell will then not be visible on the photo. I don't think this matters because the optical condition of stick and front plate is much more important. Dirty controllers are cleaned at the beginning of the modding process. It might be useful to show photos from before the cleaning since they are indicative of usage.

    Snapback present: "rarely" here means that at least some inputs don't vibrate into the opposite direction (regardless of console polling luck). "low-mid" means that the amplitude of the vibration is low, which might indicate that it's in the process of decreasing.


    Ungraded used controllers
    These have not been modified for grading and snapback removal. I did quickly test most of them for high smash turn rates, and they are not present in any here to a noteworthy degree. Additional used controllers that turn out to have good smash turn rates will be properly graded and added to the table above.
    For the ones below, the 10€ grading fee and bidding system does not apply. You just tell me which one you want and that's what you get.

    # Controller name code Stickbox type Condition Pictures Price


    Controller name code explanations and base prices (without the +10€ for grading / preparing or bids):
    Code Controller color and condition Possible stickbox types Base price
    1 JPU JP 2008 white, lightly used 3 40€
    2 JPM JP 2008 white, MINT (unused, but pre-owned) 3 60€
    3 EMU Emerald Blue, lightly used 2,3 40€
    4 ORU Orange Spice, lightly used 1,2,3 35€
    5 OBUh Old black, moderately-heavily used 1,2,3 20€
    6 OBU Old black, lightly used 1,2,3 30€
    7 OBM Old black, MINT (unused, but pre-owned) 1,2,3 50€
    8 PLU Platinum, lightly used 2,3 30€
    9 PWU Pearl White, lightly used 3 45€
    10 HRU Hori Red transparent 3 45€


    Controller numbers are per controller type, not per condition. For example, I have JPU17, JPM18 and JPU19, but no JPU18 (although in my own files I sometimes refer to the JPM18 controller as such).
     
    #316 Kadano, Nov 18, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2016
    Azure-, CAUP, tauKhan and 2 others like this.
  37. Pauer

    Pauer
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    The Pauerful

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    I bid 20€ for the OBUh6 controller.
     
  38. Vestboy_Myst

    Vestboy_Myst
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    NJ TO & Peach knitwit

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    Bid 25€ on JPU8 and JPU16
     
    #318 Vestboy_Myst, Nov 18, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2016
  39. Niels91

    Niels91
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    Nov 17, 2016
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    JPU16, 30€ and JPU13, 10€
     
  40. darcel

    darcel
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    178. @darcel (hockeysean3@outlook.com) - A3, C=Smash Black, E2)
     

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