Ulevo
Smash Master
...hence why I am swapping to the Pro Controller.Z is a timid press similar to the X & Y button while L & R are not, but alright mayn.
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...hence why I am swapping to the Pro Controller.Z is a timid press similar to the X & Y button while L & R are not, but alright mayn.
Not sure if it'll help, but there's this thread:...hence why I am swapping to the Pro Controller.
The reason for this is so old, but it might as well be said. Grab is and , so you might attack when you can't do both at the same time.My set up is mostly default except for the X button which is Grab.
Does anyone know a work around so that my character doesn't use an attack when using Grab? I can't wrap my head around as to why when I try to pivot grab an f-tilt would come out.
The Grab and C-stick for aerials in this game are booty.. And it sucks considering that was what I did best.
Well I think I'm able to answer this since I played the Wii U gamepad, Wii U Pro controller, and GCC all competitively.When I stopped playing smash, I started playing xbox, and am quite comfortable with the xbox controller, but I also was used to the GCC when I played melee. So, should I go the wii u pro, classic, or GCC? I understand everyone uses a GCC because everyone got used to it in melee, and then used it again in brawl, so it's only natural to use it in smash 4. However, I haven't played since melee, so I'd be rusty with any controller. In addition, there is also the struggle of finding a gamecube adapter for the wii u, which could be annoying.
Thank you.
I don't mind the marks, I'm not looking at my controller when I play, and can simply wipe them off when I'm not playing. As for inputting commands, is it really that much harder?Well I think I'm able to answer this since I played the Wii U gamepad, Wii U Pro controller, and GCC all competitively.
The Pro controller is good. It feels nice, it feels like how it SHOULD feel and I love it for that the buttons and right-stick are switched. (It's so nice to have.) You'll have the problem with the top of the controller because it's slick and you'll be able to see marks from where your hands were. You also don't have the privledge of rivets in the joystick, so inputting commands is harder as you have to hope you get it right, rather than relying on the rivets to tell you.
Gamepad is viable but it's just a huge version of the Pro controller. It's not bad but it's just less clunky.
As for the GCC, it's the natural Smash controller because of Melee and IMO, the rivets in the joystick area. If the Pro controller had it, I would never use a GCC. I use the GCC and Pro controller off-and-on but the main one now is the GCC just because of getting used to it in Melee/Project M.
Inputting controls? No, but the GCC has an advantage. A good example is when doing a Uair while moving in the forward direction. With the GCC, you can easily set this in the top two rivets between UP and Left/Right. It makes it easy and simple. You'll always get it right.I don't mind the marks, I'm not looking at my controller when I play, and can simply wipe them off when I'm not playing. As for inputting commands, is it really that much harder?
So I should get the GCC and adapter set up because of the rivets? I'm not used to the controller like you're, so do they make that big of a difference?
I would recommend, since you're not already used to any one controller, starting with the Pro. Yes, the lack of octagonal gates is a bit annoying, but it's really not nearly as bad as I thought it would be - I misinput very rarely, and I've actually found it makes it easier to control recoveries with granularly adjustable angles, like Falco's or Pikachu's. Any inconvenience from the lack of stick gates is totally outweighed by the fact that you effectively get three more usable shoulder buttons relative to the GCC. Plus, as mentioned in my above post, there are ways one could mod the faceplate of a Pro controller to have octagonal gates - I've actually laddered quite a few times with a guy who did.I don't mind the marks, I'm not looking at my controller when I play, and can simply wipe them off when I'm not playing. As for inputting commands, is it really that much harder?
So I should get the GCC and adapter set up because of the rivets? I'm not used to the controller like you're, so do they make that big of a difference?
You can click "edit" in the bottom left of your post to fix it!I made a dumb statement that doesn't make sense and do not know how to remove posts so... I'm sorry
But there's no way to just remove a post? From what I can see I would guess not but... That seams like such a basic thing to have in a forum :/You can click "edit" in the bottom left of your post to fix it!
You could always just edit it to [deleted] ¯\_(ツ)_/¯But there's no way to just remove a post? From what I can see I would guess not but... That seams like such a basic thing to have in a forum :/
Sadly enough there aren't to many options... Even if you were to get a hold of a new stick there is the problem that you have to know which "Generation" your GC controller is. There are 3 and 4 pigged sticks that to replace you would have to solder them of the cartage and replace them with the new once which if you accidentally got one that don't fit... it would all have been for non .Hope this is the right place for this.
With one gamecube controller having a thumbstick that makes dashing to the right iffy at best... and another with a non funtional C stick what cheap options do I have?
I have had nothing but terrible luck with 3rd party controllers... and Smash is pretty hard on these.
It seems there are a billion people selling n64 thumbsticks, but many less selling gamecube ones... i see a lot of caps for sale but not the mechanisim. The replacement process looks difficult..
The smash controller is expensive...
Thoughts on what would be the best for smashing long term?
The Smash controller seems to be the only new 1st part (ish?) one available. There are used originals out there but I am hesitant to buy something like this without testing it... as it may have the same problem. The new originals are sold as collectors items to display ($100+), while I want a toy to beat the heck out of via smash.Sadly enough there aren't to many options... Even if you were to get a hold of a new stick there is the problem that you have to know which "Generation" your GC controller is. There are 3 and 4 pigged sticks that to replace you would have to solder them of the cartage and replace them with the new once which if you accidentally got one that don't fit... it would all have been for non .
So the best option is to buy a new GC controller. but you don't have to get a smash-controller. there are other options but if you want a new one you better be ready to give up a minimum of $50 + shipping. you could also try and order one from Japan and get the whit one which may end up being cheaper if you live close enough for the shipping price to stay low.
There also exists a options with the GC esk controller that you plug into the Wiimote but I could not tell you whether it's good or not.
Anyways, I wish you the best of luck and all.
Because that would actually take effort T__TThe Smash controller seems to be the only new 1st part (ish?) one available. There are used originals out there but I am hesitant to buy something like this without testing it... as it may have the same problem. The new originals are sold as collectors items to display ($100+), while I want a toy to beat the heck out of via smash.
Why oh why can't some 3rd party make quality stuff?
What do you mean by having 3 more usable shoulder buttons? You have one additional shoulder button to map a control to. That's it. Whether the octagonal gates matter for you is personal preference, but for characters that require precise directional inputs, having the octagonal gates is invaluable. This is especially a big deal if you want to play Ryu and if you want to do C Stick neutral airs. I'm pretty sure that most players aren't about to cut apart their Pro controller, although if you are, more power to you.I would recommend, since you're not already used to any one controller, starting with the Pro. Yes, the lack of octagonal gates is a bit annoying, but it's really not nearly as bad as I thought it would be - I misinput very rarely, and I've actually found it makes it easier to control recoveries with granularly adjustable angles, like Falco's or Pikachu's. Any inconvenience from the lack of stick gates is totally outweighed by the fact that you effectively get three more usable shoulder buttons relative to the GCC. Plus, as mentioned in my above post, there are ways one could mod the faceplate of a Pro controller to have octagonal gates - I've actually laddered quite a few times with a guy who did.
Ultimately, it comes down to this: with the GCC, you really only have one option for a digital (as in on-off, non-pressure sensitive) button that you can use while C-sticking, and that's Z. Want to keep all your OOS options in addition to C-sticking shorthop aerials? You gotta either use tap jump (it blows my mind that anybody can avoid accidental jumps 24/7, but more power to ya), learn claw grip, or use a Pro controller. Yeah, you lose the nice gates, but are they really worth either restricting your in-game options, dealing with the half-tilted stick precision tap jump demands, or effectively destroying all existing muscle memory by switching to an esoteric and (for most players) uncomfortable grip? I don't think so.
Of course, this is all assuming you only use your Wii U for Sm4sh. Pro controllers work with almost every other Wii U title, while GCC works only with one. I was pretty annoyed when I got Mario Kart 8 and then remembered that only one of my five controllers could even be used with the game.
From what I can tell the difference in L and Z shielding is so small that it really does not matter, and also from what I've discovered from early wind waker speed running is that the Z button may be slower then A B X and Y for what ever the reason.Current GC Controller set up:
L: Shield
R: Jump
Z: assigned but rarely used
Y: grab
x: jump... rarely used until recently see below.
A: attack
B: Special
Cstick: Smash Attacks
So... after discovering how much easier it is to low jump with X than R I have been trying to get myself to use that for low jumps, and R for normal jumps... I just can't seem to get the hang of R low jumping.
I am having trouble jumping than getting my desired air off....
I have been thinking maybe using z as a 2nd attack button might help? Different finger for jump and attack for the key arieal game?
On the flip side... considering how many times I feel that my shield has failed me when it shouldn't have... I am wondering if that micro second faster pressing of Z than L would makes difference shielding? That whole half way down before it responds thing is a frustrating mechanic.
Thoughts?
I like the way you think. I'd like to give my Pro Controller another shot and I think the gates are one of the only things holding me back from trying it. I considered just carving them in or something and there isn't really a tutorial or many mentions of other people doing this with the Pro Controller. From what I saw on a single post on Reddit, carving may not even be effective.Plus, as mentioned in my above post, there are ways one could mod the faceplate of a Pro controller to have octagonal gates - I've actually laddered quite a few times with a guy who did.
TILthe gate is actually internal.
TIL? Yes, but I don't want to start on the front if I have to change something internally that won't match the faceplate afterward. I wish he knew who the Ladder guy was or of anyone else that has done it before and their methods. I'm not very crafty, but I'm going to try something.TIL
I think modifying a pro controller externally would be the best place to start, so I'd be very interested in hearing about the method used and how it turned out.
His name on Anther's is TRIANGLEYE . You can try him, but he's been incommunicado with me for a few weeks now, despite being online regularly, no idea why.TIL? Yes, but I don't want to start on the front if I have to change something internally that won't match the faceplate afterward. I wish he knew who the Ladder guy was or of anyone else that has done it before and their methods. I'm not very crafty, but I'm going to try something.
I mean that the analog triggers on the GCN introduce so much physical input lag via the distance they need to be depressed as to be unacceptable, for me. Coming in and out of shield with even a slight delay makes it very difficult to buffer attacks during the shield drop animation, and shielding at the absolute first frame possible is very important in many situations. Approaching with dash into perfect shield into buffered tilt, for example, requires literally one frame of the shield button being depressed before inputting tilt, and ensuring you release the shield button quickly enough is all but impossible with an analog trigger. Jumping with a trigger makes it very difficult to shorthop consistently. Grab is the only control I would consider putting on an analog trigger, and even then I would find it annoying.What do you mean by having 3 more usable shoulder buttons? You have one additional shoulder button to map a control to. That's it. ... Also you can just set a trigger to jump if you want to keep your USmash and Up B OOS. You can still do everything OOS that you need to.
Probably not. The grooves on the GC controller make the inputs easier for sure.Im having a very hard time doing Ryu's SF inputs with a Gamecube controller. Would a Pro controller make things any easier on me?
I can do them consistently on my GC controlller. Looks like the best remedy is just practicing more.Im having a very hard time doing Ryu's SF inputs with a Gamecube controller. Would a Pro controller make things any easier on me?
I switched to A-stick a few days ago. It's been hard, because I keep thinking I've got smashes on the right thumb when I don't. It'll take some time before I'm totally used to it.Has anyone messed with A+B Smash attacks? I'm tempted to use that to smash, and switch the C-sticks to tilts for faster pivots and faster access to up-tilt...
Also thinking about how to use my Y button, as it's never used in my control scheme at all. Only really ever turn off tap jump...