'A cask strength whisky has quietly been making a name for itself over the past few years and has now attracted quite a crowd of enthusiastic devotees who praise the big, rich flavours of this Speyside malt.
Arbelour distillery was established in 1879 and then remodelled by the leading distillery architect Charles Doig some 20 years later after a disastrous fire. It really came into its own after 1975 when it was acquired by the French group Pernod Ricard and became their lead single malt brand in the days before their purchase of the Seagram distilleries (The Glenlivet in particular). Today the distillery offers an excellent 'Arbelour Distillery Experience' tour which is well worth making the effort to take (booking is essential).
There are several easily accessible expressions, and the possibility of bottling your own direct from a single cask at the distillery, but the one to go for is the strangely named a'bunadh (it's pronounced a-boon-ah and means 'the origin' in Gaelic). It is non-chill filtered and at full-cask strength, the idea behind the product being to replicate a 19th-century-style whisky matured exclusively in Spanish oak oloroso sherry butts. So, if you like traditional Macalian or Glenfarclas, you're going to love this.
Note that this is released in batches, some of which have been criticised and tasting slightly sulphured (an effect of cask treatment), so if you find a batch you particularly like, it might be an idea to snap up several bottles before it runs out. Equally, it's fun to keep experimenting and, perhaps, taste one batch against another. And this shouldn't be too much of a problem, because, for whisky of this quality and strength (it's usually around the 60% abv mark), it's quite a bargain. Expect to pay about £35.
Colour: Rich and dark.
Nose: A marked sherry character, possibly of honey and dark fruits.
Taste: Can be drunk at full strength but develops with water. Big, mouth filling, Christmas cake, dried fruits, possibly with some citrus and chocolate notes.
Finish: Expect a drawn-out finish, perhaps with evolving spices, oak and some smoky notes.'