Technical knowledge compilation (Gamecubes, controllers, TVs, recording)

[Mechageo]

Answered my own question above. Decided to buy one of the newer Wii U Nunchuks to see if the joystick box had changed. Sadly, it's still the old type 2 design. Really too bad there is not a known vendor selling those type 3 joystick boxes. I wonder what stickboxes are being used for the new Hori Gamecube and PDP Gamecube controllers that are just now rolling out?

I got a PDP Wired Fight Pad. It has the same stickbox as the Hori one.

 

[SpiderMad]

My L trigger developed a problem after practicing for hours

After certain hard presses (1/30th of them) the analog slider seems to get stuck just before the non-activation even though the shoulder piece is fully uncompressed; and causes me to light shield afterword until I hard press it again to get it unstuck.

 

[Y-L]

Is it fine to use 3rd party power/composite cables for my gc? I lost my official ones and am in need of some new ones. I see this 12 dollar bundle for both on eBay, is there any reason I SHOULDNT get these third party ones?

 

[Mechageo]

Is it fine to use 3rd party power/composite cables for my gc? I lost my official ones and am in need of some new ones. I see this 12 dollar bundle for both on eBay, is there any reason I SHOULDNT get these third party ones?

As long as the voltage and amperage are the same as stock, you should be good to go.

 

[Vorde]

Is it fine to use 3rd party power/composite cables for my gc? I lost my official ones and am in need of some new ones. I see this 12 dollar bundle for both on eBay, is there any reason I SHOULDNT get these third party ones?

The video quality might look crappy? You said composite so the video quality won't be so great. I use a 3rd party adapter for my Wii and it works fine.

 

[Y-L]

The video quality might look crappy? You said composite so the video quality won't be so great. I use a 3rd party adapter for my Wii and it works fine.

Well what other options are there besides composite? idk if my crt even has s video and the component cable is ridiculously expensive because apparently nintendo uses a custom chip inside their cable and it cant be reproduced by third party.

 

[Kadano]

Well what other options are there besides composite? idk if my crt even has s video and the component cable is ridiculously expensive because apparently nintendo uses a custom chip inside their cable and it cant be reproduced by third party.

Gamecube digital cables are hard to come by for a decent price, but if you keep looking hard enough, it’s definitely possible. I got four of them for ~20€ each.

 

[Vorde]

Well what other options are there besides composite? idk if my crt even has s video and the component cable is ridiculously expensive because apparently nintendo uses a custom chip inside their cable and it cant be reproduced by third party.

Check to see if your CRT has s-video, it's quite a bit better than composite. Also if you have access to a Wii, get the component cables for it and run your game through that. Looks freaking amazing dude. Like... it's melee in HD lol

EDIT: Component cables through CRT look great. On an HDTV though with input lag and bad job at scaling, it's not worth it. Find a CRT with component or just use S-Video

 

[Sleepy Driz]

I just bought one of the new black controllers with the Smash logo on them. Which stick box design do they have?

 

[goobaje]

This is a great thread for newcommers and really anyone in general. Definitely saving it for future reference, especially since I'd like to stream my school wide tournaments

 

[Y-L]

So I wanted to use my gamecube again but I've found that the game often stops working in between menus or loading screens. (i.e. starting classic mode or loading a stage). It's definitely not the disc and I've tried cleaning the lens with a Q-tip.. I hear the disc stop spinning when going to a loading screen and then I get the disc cannot be read error but it works fine in between. Sometimes opening and closing the lid will get it to read again. Is there anything I can do besides buy a new cube lol

edit: i've seen something about changing the laser potentiometer should I try that?

 

[Kadano]

edit: i've seen something about changing the laser potentiometer should I try that?

Yes, decreasing the laser pot ohms should help. It’s advisable to use a multimeter for that, though, and opening the Gamecube screws is a bit tricky unless you have the gamebit screwdriver.

 

[Y-L]

Yes, decreasing the laser pot ohms should help. It’s advisable to use a multimeter for that, though, and opening the Gamecube screws is a bit tricky unless you have the gamebit screwdriver.

Do you know of any hacks for unscrewing the screws without the gamebit screwdriver?

 

[Kadano]

Do you know of any hacks for unscrewing the screws without the gamebit screwdriver?

I did it by setting the bottom of a hard plastic pen on fire, pushing it against the screws and waiting for it to cool. It worked pretty well, but I went through 10 pens or something until one did the job for all the screws.

 

[Xyzz]

I did it by setting the bottom of a hard plastic pen on fire, pushing it against the screws and waiting for it to cool. It worked pretty well, but I went through 10 pens or something until one did the job for all the screws.

I just got up, but I can't imagine this day bringing anything better than that story <3 :D

 

[AirFair]

Thanks Kadano for making this awesome thread. This will really help me maintain my controllers and Tv. You rock.

 

[-Philip Coast Philip-]

Do you know of any hacks for unscrewing the screws without the gamebit screwdriver?

I did it by setting the bottom of a hard plastic pen on fire, pushing it against the screws and waiting for it to cool. It worked pretty well, but I went through 10 pens or something until one did the job for all the screws.

yeah I've done this myself as well. it only took me two pens though: the trick is to really cool off the bottom of the pen (cold water) when you're done so it really solidifies, and if you're using a BIC pen then take the end cap off.

of course i'd probably ditch that strategy now as a small, thinner flathead should work just as well if you get it in the corners of the triangle.

the laser potentiometer change as worked for me on a few different GCs - you can use a multimeter like some suggest, but i just turned mine like an 1/8th of a turn to the left and i had success for each console.

 

[OninO]

Anyone know anything about decent stick cap replacements? I.e. 1:1 matches with the original? The ones I see on ebay are reputed to be shorter, and consequently not contact the gate correctly.

Alternatively, does anyone have any materials suggestions for crafting a new rubber thumb piece for a stick.

Also thanks Kadano!

 

[sihalanick]

I bought a second hand purple/clear controller for cheap at the flea market today, the only problem is that the control stick is loose, and I'm assuming it's because of the stickbox having a lot of play... Reading through the content, it's my understanding that the Wii nunchuck uses the same stickbox as "design 2", and as design 2 and design 1 stick boxes are compatible, am I right in saying I should be okay with replacing my loose stickbox (design 1 stickbox) with the stickbox housed in the Wii nunchuck (design 2 stickbox)?

Sorry for the long winded question, I'd just like to get some comfirmation before I do anything.

 

[Kadano]

I bought a second hand purple/clear controller for cheap at the flea market today, the only problem is that the control stick is loose, and I'm assuming it's because of the stickbox having a lot of play... Reading through the content, it's my understanding that the Wii nunchuck uses the same stickbox as "design 2", and as design 2 and design 1 stick boxes are compatible, am I right in saying I should be okay with replacing my loose stickbox (design 1 stickbox) with the stickbox housed in the Wii nunchuck (design 2 stickbox)?

Sorry for the long winded question, I'd just like to get some comfirmation before I do anything.

Yes, this will work fine.

 

[sihalanick]

Just wanted to write an update to my last post. I was able to open my [black] Wii nunchuck, remove its stickbox, and put it in place of the loose stickbox on my second hand controller successfully. I was really sceptical at first, but it was super easy...

 

[SpiderMad]

https://youtu.be/tL3zzBMGPaY?t=193
So I did the perforating on a White Controller, as well as replace the control stick with a Nunchuk one

I don't like the Nunchuk stick for the sake of it being too deteriorating on my thumb for things like constant Isai dropped lasers. Aside from that it's fine. I prefer a control stick with the ridge circles worn off for the least thumb pain.

The perforations I did were small holes with a screw driver, 4 on each side. I'm either gonna increase the holes to be 8 or widen them: since I like having almost no resistance at all (while hopefully preserving the slightest bit of tangibility of the hard press resistance to where you can still feel something). I'm not sure which would be safer.

I also want to have a spacer inserted (to lessen the distance needed for it to reach the hard press). But I'm in cluelessness of what I can use to attach to the plastic rod

And holy hell I'm bad at getting the Z button placed just right to feel normal when you put it back together. I've also been horrible at getting the two plastic plates of the controller to be together well, I always get a noticeable gap to where I can tell I've opened it.

 

[Kadano]

I also want to have a spacer inserted (to lessen the distance needed for it to reach the hard press). But I'm in cluelessness of what I can use to attach to the plastic rod

I do this by inserting a small piece of plastic (3*8 mm or something like that) into the sliding potentiometers on the backside of the controller PCB. I cut them out of plastic soft drink bottles usually. I’ve done this for 5 people so far and it worked well for all of them.

 

[SpiderMad]

I do this by inserting a small piece of plastic (3*8 mm or something like that) into the sliding potentiometers on the backside of the controller PCB. I cut them out of plastic soft drink bottles usually. I’ve done this for 5 people so far and it worked well for all of them.

Do you think you could do a video sometime? I can't tell you how valuable controller mod videos are, especially with the awareness on Ergonomics people are starting to see.
http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/36nbwb/im_doing_an_analysis_on_handarm_related_injuries/

Also have those 5 people requested any other changes to their controller? Like for all 5 did you also do perforation, lubing, etc.?

Just wanted to write an update to my last post. I was able to open my [black] Wii nunchuck, remove its stickbox, and put it in place of the loose stickbox on my second hand controller successfully. I was really sceptical at first, but it was super easy...

Not sure if it's gonna ping you since this is edited in but: don't you have to do a bunch of soldering (I don't own one either =/)? How can that be easy? Did you do it like this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6S5LmxGyVUA

 

[Kadano]

Do you think you could do a video sometime? I can't tell you how valuable controller mod videos are, especially with the awareness on Ergonomics people are starting to see.

I might do eventually, but honestly it’s a really simple process. You cut out the piece of plastic and put it in, then put together the controller.

Also have those 5 people requested any other changes to their controller? Like for all 5 did you also do perforation, lubing, etc.?

Yeah. The things I’m usually requested to do are:
1. Rubber-plate perforation for both L and R to decrease click resistance
2. Spring weakening of either L or R (I do this by cutting away roughly a third of the spring length)
3. For new Smash controllers, I usually decrease the L and R triggers’ inner pipes with sanding paper and then lube them with silicon oil
4. Plastic insertion into the sliding pots to decrease the light shield distance you need to push them through until you get to digital press

Not sure if it's gonna ping you since this is edited in but: don't you have to do a bunch of soldering (I don't own one either =/)? How can that be easy? Did you do it like this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6S5LmxGyVUA

You can exchange type 1 and 2 stickboxes even without a soldering iron. See post #1, section 2.3. Having a soldering iron set makes this much more comfortable and it’s only 15$ or something.

 

[SpiderMad]

I might do eventually, but honestly it’s a really simple process. You cut out the piece of plastic and put it in, then put together the controller.


Yeah. The things I’m usually requested to do are:
1. Rubber-plate perforation for both L and R to decrease click resistance
2. Spring weakening of either L or R (I do this by cutting away roughly a third of the spring length)
3. For new Smash controllers, I usually decrease the L and R triggers’ inner pipes with sanding paper and then lube them with silicon oil
4. Plastic insertion into the sliding pots to decrease the light shield distance you need to push them through until you get to digital press


You can exchange type 1 and 2 stickboxes even without a soldering iron. See post #1, section 2.3. Having a soldering iron set makes this much more comfortable and it’s only 15$ or something.

I can't make out what I'm suppose to do without video/pictures, like what piece of a bottle/best way to cut it and what shape/size (I need visual) and inserting placement.

Wait. "3.": You sand the inner pipes? What are those? For what purpose and why for only the new controllers? Did you do this in your previous video(s)? I remember you doing Silicon grease but not any sanding.

Have people always liked your modifications, or which ones have people complained they didn't like? Like 5/5 liked the perforation but some didn't like their spring decreased?

@ sihalanick did you use a soldering iron?
I do need to buy a soldering iron eventually given they indeed seem to be cheap

 

[The_Most_Effectual]

I recently got a new old controller because I felt like a noob with my Smash 4 one, and I love it with the exception of the analog stick, which has somehow managed to sink down, and slightly to the right, into the stick box. I had gotten sort of used to it until I played on another controller and realized how crisply the analog stick moved around compared to my own. When pushing the right, I don't get the trademark "click" noise, instead the rubber of the cap actually makes contact with the rim first, and it feels gruesome. I really hope this is a problem with the stick itself, as opposed to the stick box, because I tend to stress myself out about everything pertaining to the technical requirements of Melee, and figuring out how to get the stick box off and back on is not a very appealing idea to me. But, I am willing to do what it takes.

 

[Kadano]

I can't make out what I'm suppose to do without video/pictures, like what piece of a bottle/best way to cut it and what shape/size (I need visual) and inserting placement.

Wait. "3.": You sand the inner pipes? What are those? For what purpose and why for only the new controllers? Did you do this in your previous video(s)? I remember you doing Silicon grease but not any sanding.

Have people always liked your modifications, or which ones have people complained they didn't like? Like 5/5 liked the perforation but some didn't like their spring decreased?

I will create a video guide eventually, but I don’t have the time right now and I’d kinda need a camera stand to do one properly.

Sometimes, they get stuck because the diameters are too close to each other. Decreasing the inner pipe‘s outer diameter obviously helps reduce that problem. No, I haven’t showed this in videos yet.

So far, everyone was happy. I should add that I don’t always do all of these four things, I ask people which of these they want (usually 1 and 4) and do those.

 

[The_Most_Effectual]

Thank Nayru, it ended up being the stick with the problem and not the box. A tiny piece of the plastic had chipped right next to where the stick attaches to the box. It's crazy to think such a tiny difference can totally change how the controller plays. So, now that I know what the problem is, what is the general consensus on the best replacement sticks? I had already planned to buy some to replace the stick in the controller that came with my GC, which had clearly been chewed by a dog, but now I need two replacements, with the dog-chewed stick currently in my main controller...
EDIT: I also discovered that the Z button in the other controller had chipped to the point that it'll no longer work, are there any decent replacements for buttons, or is that something I would have to scavenge for? Same goes for the screws in the GCC, which are rusty and are quickly stripping. Any hope for replacements?

 

[just6822]

Were there any tests done on all the current adapters for input lag? I'm looking to play melee and PM on PC and there are at least 5 choices, I'm lookin' for the option with the smallest amount of delay.

(hopefully this is the right section)

 

[Kadano]

Were there any tests done on all the current adapters for input lag? I'm looking to play melee and PM on PC and there are at least 5 choices, I'm lookin' for the option with the smallest amount of delay.

(hopefully this is the right section)

Not that I’m aware of, however the Nintendo 4GCC adapter is known to support very low polling rates, which are expected to correlate with minimal delay. I used it within my signal chain when testing Dolphin’s total lag (on a CRT) and my end result values were not significantly higher than the ones from Gamecube. (Assuming Windows Aero was turned off, fullscreen used and vsync off. I haven’t done tests for each of these settings isolated, but all of them can be expected to add a half to two frames of lag.)

 

[Sleepy Driz]

Kadano, I'm looking to acquire a new controller for competitive play. Straight up, which edition/color do you recomend as the most viable controller for Melee?

 

[Kadano]

Kadano, I'm looking to acquire a new controller for competitive play. Straight up, which edition/color do you recomend as the most viable controller for Melee?

JP white, I’d say. Always type 3 stickboxes and seemingly better production quality than the new Smash logo controllers.

 

[Kadano]

Anyone know anything about decent stick cap replacements? I.e. 1:1 matches with the original? The ones I see on ebay are reputed to be shorter, and consequently not contact the gate correctly.

Alternatively, does anyone have any materials suggestions for crafting a new rubber thumb piece for a stick.

Also thanks Kadano!

Hey, did you end up finding any? I ordered a few from DHGate, but they don’t seem like perfect copies. I’ll review them when I receive them. I bought these: http://www.dhgate.com/product/10-se...k/239054598.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null

 

[OninO]

Hey, did you end up finding any? I ordered a few from DHGate, but they don’t seem like perfect copies. I’ll review them when I receive them. I bought these: http://www.dhgate.com/product/10-se...k/239054598.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null

Hey, no sorry, I gave up and ended up super gluing the rubber cap back onto the top of the plastic stick. Feels weird but I'm used to it now.

 

[SpiderMad]

I will create a video guide eventually, but I don’t have the time right now and I’d kinda need a camera stand to do one properly.

Any luck?

 

[Kadano]

Any luck?

I guess you don’t follow me on Twitch, as I did that just a week ago. I’ve cut the relevant part into this highlight just now: http://www.twitch.tv/kadano92/c/7020974

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-ocRhWobAc

My livestream camera unfortunately isn’t very sharp at macro range. I won’t upgrade though, I’ve put too much money into Melee-specific hardware already, sorry.

 

[SpiderMad]

I guess you don’t follow me on Twitch, as I did that just a week ago. I’ve cut the relevant part into this highlight just now: http://www.twitch.tv/kadano92/c/7020974

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-ocRhWobAc

My livestream camera unfortunately isn’t very sharp at macro range. I won’t upgrade though, I’ve put too much money into Melee-specific hardware already, sorry.

Woah wait, your plastic insertion isn't what I was thinking at all. I'm not even sure of what it accomplishes.

I thought you had something that made the Hard press moved farther up and faster to trigger like this http://smashboards.com/threads/any-...ler-modifications.335701/page-2#post-16168790 (and the reason I wanted to know of an easy object to use that would suit the same goal for everyone without having to find a 3rd party controller to cut apart like he did) or does what you did accomplish that and I'm not imagining the mechanics right?

Or am I not even imagining what his accomplishes right?

 

[Kadano]

Woah wait, your plastic insertion isn't what I was thinking at all. I'm not even sure of what it accomplishes.

I thought you had something that made the Hard press moved farther up and faster to trigger like this http://smashboards.com/threads/any-...ler-modifications.335701/page-2#post-16168790 (and the reason I wanted to know of an easy object to use that would suit the same goal for everyone without having to find a 3rd party controller to cut apart like he did) or does what you did accomplish that and I'm not imagining the mechanics right?

Yeah well you can’t expect me to make videos of a mod that other people invented that I never heard about and that nobody ever mentioned to me, lol.

Both his and my mod accomplish something similar: less amount of movement from neutral trigger position to digital press. Mine does this by having the trigger at a lower default position, his does this by having the activation point higher upwards. I think which is better comes down to finger length and grip preference.

Edit: From 9bit’s text, it seems that with his mod, it’s no longer safe to press as strongly as you want to, since the rubber plate will be the only part providing resistance against your grey trigger piece. So, unless I’m misunderstanding, pressing strongly might make your rubber plate fall out, so you can’t hard press any more (until you open the controller and put it back in). This does not happen with my mod (but again, maybe it isn’t with his either, not sure).

 

[SpiderMad]

Yeah well you can’t expect me to make videos of a mod that other people invented that I never heard about and that nobody ever mentioned to me, lol.

Both his and my mod accomplish something similar: less amount of movement from neutral trigger position to digital press. Mine does this by having the trigger at a lower default position, his does this by having the activation point higher upwards. I think which is better comes down to finger length and grip preference.

Edit: From 9bit’s text, it seems that with his mod, it’s no longer safe to press as strongly as you want to, since the rubber plate will be the only part providing resistance against your grey trigger piece. So, unless I’m misunderstanding, pressing strongly might make your rubber plate fall out, so you can’t hard press any more (until you open the controller and put it back in). This does not happen with my mod (but again, maybe it isn’t with his either, not sure).

@9bit 's method sounds better in theory, but I'd like to test yours sometime although it was hard to determine what you did. I totally believe controller modification (especially hard press weakening) can be a lot more popular than it is with the right videos.

Also BOTH my extension cables stopped working somehow, I'm gonna have to buy new ones but I have no clue how they could have randomly stopped working entirely (with any Wii/Cube and controller I test) and at the same time apparently.

I can get one to very temporarily work while I manipulate (crunch/hold) part of the cord (wire) near the plug in port (but not moving the port at all), that's so weird. Guess the wiring gives out somehow after about two years. I think I bought these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0A0GAJ00TME82F18CBBZ