Technical knowledge compilation (Gamecubes, controllers, TVs, recording)

[Dwreck]

What's a good adapter I can use to play on my computer monitor with?

this is my monitor if it matters
http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VX2260WM-22-Inch-1080p-Monitor/dp/B001J2YYZ0

 

[6VI6]

2.3 How to take off and open your stick box
1. Take off the control stick / c-stick cap. Next, remove the large plastic rail on the back by gently pushing it downwards and pulling it out. It's hanging on wires so you won't be able to remove it completely without destroying the solder points, just let it hang down.
2. Depending on your stick box model (see section 2.5) you have to undo the two screws or desolder the four solder points. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can also carefully remove them with a gripper. Try to remove as much metal as possible. For this, I used this black gripper:

I'm wondering what you mean by the bolded phrase, especially since the image is down. I don't have much soldering experience but I'm familiar with removing solders without some sort of melting involved, and since I don't have access to any normal soldering tools right now this is very interesting to me.

 

[Kadano]

I'm wondering what you mean by the bolded phrase, especially since the image is down. I don't have much soldering experience but I'm familiar with removing solders without some sort of melting involved, and since I don't have access to any normal soldering tools right now this is very interesting to me.

Here is the image:

I grabbed the solder point from above (perpendicular to the mainboard) and as close to the mainboard as possible. Then, while pressing very tightly, I rotated the gripper to remove the metal.

 

[6VI6]

Awesome, thanks

Also this topic should be stickied.

 

[MeechMan3000]

I apologize of this is off topic and/or random but, I've opened several GCCs, and I noticed that after I open it once, after I put it back together, it can never shut fully like it like it was before I ever opened it. For example:



Notice how the D-pad part has a noticeably larger gap than the C-stick part. And no this is not because I'm using two different colored shells (I just did it so it was easier to see) it happens even when the front and back shell are from the same controller. Anyone else ever notice this? My OCD is not letting me leave this alone lol...

 

[Kadano]

I apologize of this is off topic and/or random

This is actually very on-topic. =)
Different color cases have exactly the same geometry. So the only possible cause is that a cable, a pcb or a rubber pad has slipped out of position. Open it up again and check for every movable piece whether it’s at the correct position. My guess is that your D-pad’s rubber pad isn’t properly attached to the housing’s nib that is supposed to hold in place.

 

[♡ⓛⓞⓥⓔ♡]

GOD SOMEBODY STICKY THIS THREAD I SPENT LIEK 30 MINUTES SEARCHING FOR THIS

unforgivable

(and why the HELL can't smashboards have "Videography" section anymore. And the whole video section is still a huge ****ing mess)

Gonna bookmark this ****

 

[thespymachine]

Great work!

Cheers!

 

[thespymachine]

Double-post, sorry. Didn't think I would be the only one to post in the past few days.

A few month ago I bought extra control and c-sticks, but when I replace the control sticks they sit too low and the rubber part rubs along the edge of the control stick opening.
It seems as if the stick from the stick-box is too short or the insertion on the replacement control-stick is too deep. And my stick-box is ver. 3.
Is there a way I can make this work? Did I get the wrong parts?

Edit: I just put a very tiny piece of paper in the insert on the replacement stick, and it's doing just fine. lol

 

[Kadano]

Great you fixed it on your own! Could you give me a link to the sticks you bought?

 

[thespymachine]

Ha ha. Yeah, it's doing well enough right now. It's a spare controller so it won't be used much anyways.

Link to the sticks I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H7P0B6/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mooki]

This may be a bit long-winded, but please try to bear with me if you could.

I just got a Pinnacle Video Transfer and I thinking about getting a Gamecube cable off eBay or somewhere that would allow both composite (plus audio) and s-video output like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-Ga...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c74669d31. My plan was to split the audio cables but have the video composite cable plug into a TV and the s-video cable plug into the Pinnacle. My reasoning is that this would prevent the image from darkening that occurs when you split a composite output with a splitter. After thinking about this idea a bit more I started to wonder if using both the composite and s-video output at the same time would darken the image defeating the whole purpose of using them. I have no clue how these dual composite/s-video cables work.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Kadano]

My plan was to split the audio cables but have the video composite cable plug into a TV and the s-video cable plug into the Pinnacle. My reasoning is that this would prevent the image from darkening that occurs when you split a composite output with a splitter. After thinking about this idea a bit more I started to wonder if using both the composite and s-video output at the same time would darken the image defeating the whole purpose of using them. I have no clue how these dual composite/s-video cables work.

I don’t have NTSC gamecubes, only PAL ones which have superior output connections where there is no need to split video or audio. Anyway, when I connect both my SCART output (whose pins replace those used for the NTSC S-Video) and my composite output, they don’t decrease in brightness, so you should be fine.

 

[-Philip Coast Philip-]

I just got a Pinnacle Video Transfer and I thinking about getting a Gamecube cable off eBay or somewhere that would allow both composite (plus audio) and s-video output like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-Ga...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c74669d31. My plan was to split the audio cables but have the video composite cable plug into a TV and the s-video cable plug into the Pinnacle. My reasoning is that this would prevent the image from darkening that occurs when you split a composite output with a splitter.

I'd say yes. I do it, and I've given others the same advice. I think I've done it with both the Wii and GC, but my reasoning has been that the console 'compensates' because it provides the power source for each signal, unlike splitting a signal of a single type.

Depending on how much you care about audio, you can either record mono, split the audio somehow.

I don’t have NTSC gamecubes, only PAL ones which have superior output connections where there is no need to split video or audio. Anyway, when I connect both my SCART output (whose pins replace those used for the NTSC S-Video) and my composite output, they don’t decrease in brightness, so you should be fine.

Hey, I would call that inferior for not allowing me to split it myself, ha. But the real reason PAL is superior is because of the color quality (so I've read).

 

[Kadano]

Updated the video capture device section.

 

[mooki]

That's to bad. I don't know if it's the cable or the Pinnacle Video Transfer but when I recorded with s-video (even when I tested it without plugging in the yellow rca cable) the video comes out significantly worse than rca. The worst part is that when recording from s-video, certain parts of the recording will skip kinda and the audio will end up very desynced. :/ Maybe I should try a different RCA+S-Video cable, but I already wasted 10 bucks on this one.

Edit: When I record from a TV with video out or use spitters I don't get any desync so I know it's not the pinnacle.

 

[EWC]

I have a controller whose z button often fails to register an input, even if you depress it enough to make it click. I suspect that it is a mechanical fault rather than an issue with circuitry, because pressing the button harder makes it work more reliably.

I have managed a temporary fix by putting a bit of folded paper in between the button and the sensor to decrease the amount of pressure required to make it register. I would prefer a more permanent solution.

Has anyone ever fixed this sort of problem before? I am thinking of taking apart the box that houses the z button and seeing if I can rebuild it after some mechanical adjustment. Is that easily doable?

 

[Kadano]

Has anyone ever fixed this sort of problem before? I am thinking of taking apart the box that houses the z button and seeing if I can rebuild it after some mechanical adjustment. Is that easily doable?

Sorry, I haven’t encountered this problem yet so I can’t offer any problem-solving knowledge.

On a different note, I’ve updated the video capture device section once again. And with my new Avermedia H727 PCIe capture card that supports 480p60 (great card btw, I can really recommend it to anybody who has a decent non-laptop PC and a budget of ~80$/70€), I can move closer to the perfect player setup. I will buy a CRT monitor with BNC component inputs soon, so we can play on a setup with progressive Gamecube video without any lag.
(Instead of a CRT monitor, I could also opt for an ASUS VG248QE, I know. But that would cost me 300€ plus a component → HDMI converter while a used Sony monitor with a resolution of ~2000×1500 only costs me 20€.)

 

[WHA?]

I apologize of this is off topic and/or random but, I've opened several GCCs, and I noticed that after I open it once, after I put it back together, it can never shut fully like it like it was before I ever opened it. For example:



Notice how the D-pad part has a noticeably larger gap than the C-stick part. And no this is not because I'm using two different colored shells (I just did it so it was easier to see) it happens even when the front and back shell are from the same controller. Anyone else ever notice this? My OCD is not letting me leave this alone lol...

Prolly a bit late, but another explanation is that the shoulder buttons have like a black casing covering them.
Because some controllers dont have the shoulder buttons covered (meaning you can take off the L/R without unscrewing the covers) the mother boards on those have the covers as part of the motherboards. SO, sometimes when you try to mix n match controllers that have those covers on the L/R and motherboards that have the built in covers, it just ends up being double covers and not closing.

Best solution is jusst taking of the covers on the L/R. IDK why they are there in the first place since taking themm off does not make it better or worse..... and the triggers stay in place even without them
these
http://i.imgur.com/8WrZmSr.jpg

 

[WHA?]

I have a controller whose z button often fails to register an input, even if you depress it enough to make it click. I suspect that it is a mechanical fault rather than an issue with circuitry, because pressing the button harder makes it work more reliably.

I have managed a temporary fix by putting a bit of folded paper in between the button and the sensor to decrease the amount of pressure required to make it register. I would prefer a more permanent solution.

Has anyone ever fixed this sort of problem before? I am thinking of taking apart the box that houses the z button and seeing if I can rebuild it after some mechanical adjustment. Is that easily doable?

Had some similar problems. Doing these 2 things seemed to help.

1. clean the z button as well as the parts of the controller that surround it.
2. the z-button has a little metal part sticking out of it. It acts as a spring so in your case, you can bend it as to close the spring so that when you press it, there is less resistance. You can use some pliers for this.

 

[1ampercent]

Still waiting for my distribution Amp, already bought two 5RCA cables (component), and an Avermedia H727.
Planning to play on my 23" LCD monitor with progressive scan using my Wii that has component cables. Hopefully it works out okay. I can't tell if there's any delay or not, but a CRT won't fit in my room so that's not an option for me unfortunately.

Will update once I finish the setup...

 

[Kadano]

What's the monitor's name? Maybe it's listed on prad.de or a similar website.
Also, you have an LCD monitor with component inputs? That's nice.

I recently got 3 digital Gamecube cables for only 60€, one of them is D-SUB modded so I can hook it up to my LCD monitor. There is a bit lag, but it's very close to being playable.

 

[1ampercent]

My monitor is a TV/PC monitor hybrid, got it a while ago for that sole reason, didn't know I was going to end up playing smash a lot or buying a capture card.
It's a LG M2380D

http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-M2380D-led-monitor

Since I am unable to test, or distinguish whether or not it has delay, I can't really recommend it.

 

[-Philip Coast Philip-]

That's to bad. I don't know if it's the cable or the Pinnacle Video Transfer but when I recorded with s-video (even when I tested it without plugging in the yellow rca cable) the video comes out significantly worse than rca. The worst part is that when recording from s-video, certain parts of the recording will skip kinda and the audio will end up very desynced. :/ Maybe I should try a different RCA+S-Video cable, but I already wasted 10 bucks on this one.

Edit: When I record from a TV with video out or use spitters I don't get any desync so I know it's not the pinnacle.

Hm. I know it's late to reply, but, for the record, I haven't heard of that problem, or if there's desynching then it's usually due to a slower computer.

But - sorry about this - I just realized you said Pinnacle Video Transfer, and while I'm not familiar with that device, that device looks like it... overall has poor picture quality, and possible problems with receiving interlaced video (which is what it seems it's set up for in the first place).

Instinct says not to trust the device on this one, since it will be receiving and encoding your files for you, and not just simply transferring them to the pc. However, even with this knowledge it's not like I could foresee any problems - I still would have given you the same device, but maybe with a disclaimer like "but I'm not sure how well your device will perform, let me know if you have trouble with it."

Anyway, figured I might as well say it..

 

[EWC]

Is it possible to fix a control stick that consistently drifts in one direction? What is the underlying mechanical failure that causes this?

 

[Massive]

The spring is usually bad in drift controllers. Either it is too tight in one direction forcing an input or, more likely, it is too loose and the weight of the stick causes it to drift in one direction.

While it is technically possible to replace the spring, it is easier/faster/better to replace the stick itself.

 

[EWC]

I am fairly attached to this control stick. I very used to the way it feels, and every other control stick I have tried is way to tight for my tastes. If it comes down to it I might just have to suck it up and get used to a new stick, but if it is at all possible I would like to try to salvage this one.

Actually it occurs to me that maybe I am asking the wrong question entirely. Is there any fast way of decreasing the stiffness of the white nintendo controllers? The OP talks about restoring stiffness on controllers that are heavily broken in, but can you easily go the other way? If so that might make a better long term solution for me, especially because of the improved modularity enjoyed by the white controller stick boxes.

 

[Kadano]

I don't agree on the spring being the problem. When I had drifting stickboxes, rotating the spring didn't affect the drift direction.

I rather suspect the cause to be uneven wear from friction on the plastic elements (D, E, F; C as well if type 3). Re-thickening them will increase tightness, but not stiffness, so this fix should work for you if you are willing to spend some time fine-tuning the parts.

Tightness = small loose zone (where you can move the stick but not the potentiometer)
Stiffness = amount of force necessary to move the stick a certain amount beyond the loose zone. Usually only depends on the spring, but if you add too much epoxy glue, there will be unwanted friction between the plastic parts that increases stiffness as well.

 

[Stride]

I have a problem trying to remove the spring from my controller's shoulder button; one of the screws on the black box which covers the button appears to be stuck (specifically the left screw on the right button, coincidentally the one I want to remove the spring from). The other 3 screws come out fine, but using the same screwdriver on this one does nothing.

I would assume it was just the one controller, but I tried it with 2 and they both had the same problem on the same screw (this was with a purple and a black controller, I could try my other purple if necessary).

Has anyone encountered or heard of this problem?

 

[Kadano]

I have a problem trying to remove the spring from my controller's shoulder button; one of the screws on the black box which covers the button appears to be stuck (specifically the left screw on the right button, coincidentally the one I want to remove the spring from). The other 3 screws come out fine, but using the same screwdriver on this one does nothing.

I would assume it was just the one controller, but I tried it with 2 and they both had the same problem on the same screw (this was with a purple and a black controller, I could try my other purple if necessary).

Has anyone encountered or heard of this problem?

I also had this problem when I only had a bad screwdriver. With the one I’m using right now, I’ve been able to remove every screw I’ve encountered so far.

 

[SpiderMad]

How do you make the clickers/hard press on shoulder buttons require less force, as in making them buttery like certain controllers (where you go past it and set off an air dodge without barely feeling it). I have one that has a hard press I dislike and wears out your finger and want to modify it, I have a tri-wing.

 

[Kadano]

How do you make the clickers/hard press on shoulder buttons require less force, as in making them buttery like certain controllers (where you go past it and set off an air dodge without barely feeling it). I have one that has a hard press I dislike and wears out your finger and want to modify it, I have a tri-wing.

Take the shoulder triggers apart and use something sharp (knife, scissor, screwdriver) to pierce the soft rubber plate between the slider and the trigger contact plates several times.

 

[SpiderMad]

Take the shoulder triggers apart and use something sharp (knife, scissor, screwdriver) to pierce the soft rubber plate between the slider and the trigger contact plates several times.

Thanks! Have you tried this method before or know someone that did? The holes make the rubber less strong so it requires less force? Should I try to make the holes as small as possible? Does constantly using the hard press wear down the rubber naturally?

 

[Kadano]

Thanks! Have you tried this method before or know someone that did? The holes make the rubber less strong so it requires less force? Should I try to make the holes as small as possible? Does constantly using the hard press wear down the rubber naturally?

I've done this a few times. First, I made them very small to be on the safe side, but the effect was minimal. Then, I used a screwdriver to enlarge the two holes in the middle depletion ring to approximately 45 degrees each (so that half of the entire ring was pierced). This made them click just as easily as the weakest triggers I've encountered "naturally" so far.

 

[SpiderMad]

I've done this a few times. First, I made them very small to be on the safe side, but the effect was minimal. Then, I used a screwdriver to enlarge the two holes in the middle depletion ring to approximately 45 degrees each (so that half of the entire ring was pierced). This made them click just as easily as the weakest triggers I've encountered "naturally" so far.

So like this? http://i.minus.com/jd4GbVZKpW2mQ.png
Did you also modify the springs at all to your liking?

What do you think about the idea of putting a transistor on the analog connected to the hard press digital input, making light press trigger hard press, allowing you to air dodge with a light press (with the detriment of not being able to light shield with that trigger)?

 

[Kadano]

So like this? http://i.minus.com/jd4GbVZKpW2mQ.png
Did you also modify the springs at all to your liking?

What do you think about the idea of putting a transistor on the analog connected to the hard press digital input, making light press trigger hard press, allowing you to air dodge with a light press (with the detriment of not being able to light shield with that trigger)?

Link doesn't work for me.

I removed the spring once to disable light shield, but I didn't like it. I'd recommend you to try this first before you carry out your idea; it should have the same effect but it's less work and more easily reversible.

 

[SpiderMad]

reversible as in replacing it with another controller's rubber or using some type of material to plug the holes?

 

[Kadano]

As in re-inserting the spring if you want the analog back.

But yeah, if you damaged the rubber plate a bit too much (hardly possible imho), you can simply exchange it.

 

[SpiderMad]

Oh, why did you not enjoy it? If I combine the spring removal along with the puncturing the rubber part: could that turn out to be a bad combination? Here's what I'm imaging your hole looks like in this apparent rubber piece I tried imgur this time though I'm not sure why minus.com doesn't work for you http://i.imgur.com/qYrpKec.png

 

[Kadano]

Oh wow, I mistook your drawing for one of those "picture not found" images, lol.
Yeah, like that pretty much.

I just didn't like the feeling of instant digital. It worked reliably, though.