The new bonus episode of the Smash Brothers Documentary Metagame, Godslayer, is now available on Vimeo
Welcome to Smashboards, the world's largest Super Smash Brothers community! Over 250,000 Smash Bros. fans from around the world have come to discuss these great games in over 19 million posts!
You are currently viewing our boards as a visitor. Click here to sign up right now and start on your path in the Smash community!
How many holes and where do you recommend (perform for your requests) for A/B/X/Y?I had announced to only write new tutorials for when my website is online, but it seems this will still take some time, so here’s something new that many have been requesting. (I had documented this in a video tutorial more than a year ago, but admittedly that video isn’t reallly good.)
Decreasing controller button click resistance by perforating the rubber plates (decreases finger strain during clicking) [mod B5 in my modded controller shop]
This modification can be done for all digital buttons except Z. (The Z button uses a different switch type that can’t be easily altered / replaced.)
I recommend the VG248QE for Dolphin setups or Wii → HDMI converter cables. For VGA from console, I’d say either a CRT monitor or the AOC G2460FQ (which also has very low lag with about 4 ms and all four standard inputs – VGA, DVI, HDMI, DP).Kadano , I remember you recommended the Asus VG248QE to me due to its great response time for playing melee on an LCD. I went ahead and ordered it since I needed a new PC monitor anyways, my question now is what would you say is the best way to play on it? If I remember correctly, you play on your CRT Monitors by using a component -> vga converter, right? Back when we talked about it a while ago you said I should just get a VGA cable for the wii from ebay or so. Also, the monitor doesn't have a VGA slot but a DVI one, but I don't think there's a problem using a converter from VGA -> DVI, right?
You can get the same device from AliExpress for much less: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5RCA...-Audio-Converter-YPbPr-RGB-R/32236376607.htmlI see the problem here is that I can't find any of the wii -> hdmi converters fizzy mentions in his article.
both sold out
the sewell one is available on amazon but doesnt ship to Austria.
I think I'll have to go with the
C&E Component RGB YPbPr to HDMI converter
In the comments of fizzy's article someone says blackouts can occur but depend on the energy socket it's plugged into. Additionally, it's rather expensive. Any other suggestions?
I searched for ages for caps in the past. Try these. I'm not quite sure, but they might wear a little faster than usual. But they feel good, and work. I might be wrong about the wear, because I'm judging by the wear on someone else's controller that I put one of these in, and they might just wear theirs faster than I do.Concerning replacement stick caps: I have recently ordered every distinct type of stick cap I could find on DealExtreme and attempted to fit them all onto a controller. Unfortunately, none of them seem to work (for various reasons).
These fit onto the stickbox, but sit considerably higher than the GameCube stick cap; this means the bottom part of them comes into contact with the shell in some positions and creates too much friction (sometimes to the extent of getting stuck). If the stick gate were to be expanded to accommodate the raised position then these ones could work.
Xbox 360 type
I couldn't get these to fit onto the stickbox at all.
Wii Nunchuck type
These fit onto the stickbox but sit too low, which causes them to come into contact with the potentiometers when moved downwards or to the right.
Kadano , have I done something wrong, or did you only test whether the caps could be fitted and not whether they left the stick fully functional when you tried them yourself?
Yeah, that'd work just fine. 26$ for the cable that looks like it's not genuine Mayflash is a bit more than usual though. It does ship from USA, so delivery will be faster, but if you want to save a bit by ordering from China: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/AV-H...intendo-Wii-Sony-PS3-Console/32355370301.htmlAny recommendations for a converter to connect my Wii to my CRT monitor (one VGA input port)?
Actually I was mistaken and that's not hard to find. What I don't know how to do is to how to get audio out of my Wii in this case.
Is there something I can connect the audio cables to that would give me the audio (preferably not desynced from the video going to my monitor)?
So what I'm thinking is I'll use these cords to get VGA output from my Wii and then I'll use this adapter to connect the audio to some cheap USB speaker that I'll buy. It's slightly pricey but I can definitely afford it, but does this make sense?
So I managed to get everything working on Monday (I ended up having to blindly navigate my Wii to change the display setting to 480p) and I have to say it's one of the best set ups I've ever played on. However, it takes several minutes for the image to stabilize as it tends to black out at first. Have you experienced anything like this and if so is there anything I can do about it?Yeah, that'd work just fine. 26$ for the cable that looks like it's not genuine Mayflash is a bit more than usual though. It does ship from USA, so delivery will be faster, but if you want to save a bit by ordering from China: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/AV-H...intendo-Wii-Sony-PS3-Console/32355370301.html
I've ordered the same from there and it works fine.
I haven't had that problem at all, so I don't know how to solve it. Buying an Extron RGB interface (164xi, for example – about 30$) and running the VGA cable through it before connecting it to the CRT monitor might fix it though.So I managed to get everything working on Monday (I ended up having to blindly navigate my Wii to change the display setting to 480p) and I have to say it's one of the best set ups I've ever played on. However, it takes several minutes for the image to stabilize as it tends to black out at first. Have you experienced anything like this and if so is there anything I can do about it?
500$ is a hard number, but "reliably" is not.sick
i'll donate $500 if you can find a way to reliably make controllers smash turn without adding electrical components :D
I recorded one now, I had to wait for the sun to rise again (50 Hz flickering in electrical lighting (yes, even LED lightbulbs) makes high-speed video unwatchable). It's also embedded in the main post now.can you make another GIF showing the results after applying the silicone?
what would you estimate the normal ms range is for controllers that do not have the phenomenon?500$ is a hard number, but "reliably" is not.
We'd need to define it in how many milliseconds are allowed for the control stick to be moved from the dead zone to the gate's rim to qualify as a proper input, and in how many consecutive smash turns must be achieved in order to be called reliable.
From my experience, I'd say 6 ms and 40 consecutive inputs are realistic (and currently probably only met by the few controllers that have a strongly pronounced potentiometer phenomenon).
Wow, that is a immense difference. I may have to look into doing this so I stop getting turn around lasers.I recorded one now, I had to wait for the sun to rise again (50 Hz flickering in electrical lighting (yes, even LED lightbulbs) makes high-speed video unwatchable). It's also embedded in the main post now.