Modification revival
Since I'm seeing more and more questions about how to powershield/wavedash, I decided to bring this diamond back up from the heap. Remember, modification of one of the GCN's trigger (usually R, but L might suit a handfull of people) removes all resistance from a trigger to the point where only the digital button remains. Letting the trigger fall to the point before the "click" sets this position as neutral (at start-up) so that you won't be light sheilding when you don't want to, and pulling it out to its normal position has no effect at all. If you're lazy with the in-game calibration method, simply unplugging your controller, setting every to neutral as you like it, and replugging it in also works.
At any rate, this button offers an instant full shield just by clicking it, resulting in quicker and improved wavedash, powershield, and teching rates. Check the beginning of the thread for superpichu's detailed instructions as to how to do this modification process. Just another note: Attempting to modify a trigger on a Wavebird controller is not advised. You endanger the wiring inside by doing this, as it is different from the standard controllers'.
Also, I've played around with this myself a ton of times, so take it from me: You're not going to break anything unless you're inhumanly bad with your mechanical skills. It's all unscrewing, accessing the spring, and replacing everything as you found it. The big challenge is the initial unscrewing. For unscrewing the 3-prong screwdrivers, use a 5/64 inch flatheaded jeweler's screwdriver, since you most likely don't have a 3-prong screwdriver. Only one screw on the controller is a standard Phillips' head (4-prong), and the rest are 3. The screws blocking the trigger are all tiny phillips head screws, as well. I encourage playing around with this for at least one controller. Keep in mind that you may need both functional triggers for some games, such as Phantasy Star Online. Have fun, guys.
Since I'm seeing more and more questions about how to powershield/wavedash, I decided to bring this diamond back up from the heap. Remember, modification of one of the GCN's trigger (usually R, but L might suit a handfull of people) removes all resistance from a trigger to the point where only the digital button remains. Letting the trigger fall to the point before the "click" sets this position as neutral (at start-up) so that you won't be light sheilding when you don't want to, and pulling it out to its normal position has no effect at all. If you're lazy with the in-game calibration method, simply unplugging your controller, setting every to neutral as you like it, and replugging it in also works.
At any rate, this button offers an instant full shield just by clicking it, resulting in quicker and improved wavedash, powershield, and teching rates. Check the beginning of the thread for superpichu's detailed instructions as to how to do this modification process. Just another note: Attempting to modify a trigger on a Wavebird controller is not advised. You endanger the wiring inside by doing this, as it is different from the standard controllers'.
Also, I've played around with this myself a ton of times, so take it from me: You're not going to break anything unless you're inhumanly bad with your mechanical skills. It's all unscrewing, accessing the spring, and replacing everything as you found it. The big challenge is the initial unscrewing. For unscrewing the 3-prong screwdrivers, use a 5/64 inch flatheaded jeweler's screwdriver, since you most likely don't have a 3-prong screwdriver. Only one screw on the controller is a standard Phillips' head (4-prong), and the rest are 3. The screws blocking the trigger are all tiny phillips head screws, as well. I encourage playing around with this for at least one controller. Keep in mind that you may need both functional triggers for some games, such as Phantasy Star Online. Have fun, guys.