TeeDiddyDizzle
Smash Rookie
Ok thank youThat was on Wii. I use USB Loader GX and DIOS MIOS Lite.
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Ok thank youThat was on Wii. I use USB Loader GX and DIOS MIOS Lite.
Probably 20 ms or more.Could anyone make an estimate on how much my input lag this TV has?
LC-20E1U Sharp TV
Or if someone knows a way that isn't super complicated I could do.
Also is there a reliable yet cheap wii to CRT monitor cable out there?
As long as you use a 4-port GCC adapter with a new version of Dolphin, disable Windows Aero and vsync, enable exclusive fullscreen and have a fast gaming monitor (120 or 144 hz, preferably), you should be fine.Can the dolphin emulator have no lag?
Specs:
Geforce GTX 660
Core i5 4430
8 gigs of ram
1 tb hdd
I have dolphin with 20XX and a gamecube adapter. I was wondering if that would be a suitable replacement for a Wii since I don't have a computer with an SD card reader to put 20XX on there (I was lucky to get Project M from a friend )
The established way to do this for Smash is to use passive splitters. Depending on how much distance you need between TV and capture device, you can either go cheap with three 2-female-1-male (2F1M) RCA splitters (5$) and one triple 1M-1M RCA cable (3$) of the desired length or buy three 3F RCA splitters (3$) and two triple 1M-1M RCA cables (3$ each).I recently got a USB capture card (the ones that have ports for AV cables). To output to both my TV and the capture card I would need three splitter cables that can split the signal from my Wii into both of them, correct? And if so, where can I find them? (Sorry if I'm being dumb and this is obvious, I'm pretty new to this stuff)
The Nintendo Wii U one and the Mayflash 4 Port Wii U one are the best because they can utilize Dolphin's native support for 0 input lag.What is the best adapter for the 20XX emulator to have the least amount of input lag?
So to use the first set, the RCA cables from my Wii would go into the splitter, and the triple 1M-1M RCA cable would connect to the splitter and the TV, correct?The established way to do this for Smash is to use passive splitters. Depending on how much distance you need between TV and capture device, you can either go cheap with three 2-female-1-male (2F1M) RCA splitters (5$) and one triple 1M-1M RCA cable (3$) of the desired length or buy three 3F RCA splitters (3$) and two triple 1M-1M RCA cables (3$ each).
However, passive splitting always means double termination, which results in brightness loss and degradation of the video signal. Active splitting keeps all brightness the same, so you don’t need to increase the brightness levels on capture card and TV. Here’s the cheapest composite+audio distribution amplifier I found, 15$. You’d also need two triple 1M-1M RCA cables (3$ each) with that.
Total price for cable set 1 (max distance between TV and capture device: 170 cm, passive): 8$
Total price for cable set 2 (max distance between TV and capture device: 300 cm, passive): 9$
Total price for set 3 (max distance between TV and capture card: 300 cm, active): 21$
Objectively they should be the same.@ Y-L is the Nintendo Wii U adapter any better than the Mayflash Adapter? Because the Nintendo Wii U adapter costs much more...
No. The splitter would connect the Wii with the TV (or recording device), and the triple RCA cable will connect the splitter with recording device / TV (whichever is not connected yet).So to use the first set, the RCA cables from my Wii would go into the splitter, and the triple 1M-1M RCA cable would connect to the splitter and the TV, correct?
https://wiki.dolphin-emu.org/index....i_U_in_Dolphin#Driver_installation_with_ZadigI'm trying to set up melee for dolphin on my PC, and I've encountered a problem...
I have the KELUX gamecube controller adapter for the wii u, and it is my understanding that it should work for the PC as well. When I plug it into the USB ports in my computer, it tries to install the driver, but when I open dolphin it does not recognize a controller is plugged in. I read somewhere online that the Zadig program could help identify and install the driver, but I couldn't figure it out. Can anyone help me with this? Or link to me to a thread that has an answer? Much appreciated
Thanks homieNo. The splitter would connect the Wii with the TV (or recording device), and the triple RCA cable will connect the splitter with recording device / TV (whichever is not connected yet).
https://wiki.dolphin-emu.org/index....i_U_in_Dolphin#Driver_installation_with_Zadig
Where'd you get the number for that? I could be wrong but it just seems high. thanks.This amount should not be much higher than 55 ms, which is roughly the time the Gamecube takes to process the inputs into rendered frames.
http://smashboards.com/posts/19087659Where'd you get the number for that? I could be wrong but it just seems high. thanks.
Yeah I figured it out a moment afterward, ha.
Yup, resoldering 6 pins is everything you need to do.Im thinking of "restomodding" an emerald controller by swapping the board with a brand new one to get the newer stickbox. I am not a fan of the 10 foot cord as I usually play within 5 feet of the console and I want to keep the controller looking the same. Has anybody ever successfully swapped cords on a board? Is it a simple desolder and resolder job or is there more to it to be aware of?
That is a bit of an overstatement. My method is not very accurate and obsolete, but I have neither the money nor the knowledge to work with state-of-the-art equipment.@ Kadano I've got a few technical questions I'd like to ask you if you could please?
I've seen that you have tools for measuring latency with a good degree of precision.
One of the Dolphin test series was with 1xIR and no AA / lowest AF, another one was with 3xIR and maximum AA and AF. Both had vsync off and Aero off. There was no significant difference between them, in fact the 3xIR one ended up with 1 ms less average delay, but that’s well within my method’s error range. So it’s somewhat safe to say that IR and AA do not increase lag at all. (Except if you drive your GPU to its limits probably, but as long as you use a discreet GPU (or possibly Broadwell / Skylake iGPU?) that shouldn’t happen.)Could you possibly test on Dolphin:
1) The difference in latency with internal resolution/AF/AA (or maybe just IR) versus no graphical enhancements? I've been wondering how much lag enhancements could cause.
Exclusive fullscreen escapes Windows desktop composition which I’ve read is another frame of lag (regardless of Aero and vsync). If I’m not mistaken, vsync should only add half a frame of lag on average, and something similar should happen within the Gamecube as well. I recommend keeping vsync on. I haven’t done test series with only vsync turned on / off yet, I might do this in the future to find out how much delay it adds roughly.2) The difference in latency with Dolphin's vsync on vs vsync off? I have to use vsync or else I get horrible screen tearing. Also I know that Exlusive Fullscreen on Dolphin disables Windows Aero's vsync but is there any difference beside that from your knowledge? I wouldn't think so but I don't know. Basically, is there any point in having Fullscreen on and Aero off or is just having fullscreen on enough since it bypasses Aero's vsync?
I don’t care about cosmetic hardware mods at all so I have no knowledge about LED mods. I do know that @ Sham Rock has done this quite a few times, I think he’s quite the authority on this subject.On an unrelated question, I've been considering putting LED mods on my controller. Would you happen to know anything about that? I've seen the guide here on smashboards on the custom controller thread that requires you to cut your wires but i've also seen this guide which does not require that. I asked the guy who wrote that post about it and he said sometimes 2 of his 4 LED's flash. Do you know if one method is superior to the other and would not having your LED's flash without removing the rumble pak?
Thanks for your help, you've been a blessing to the smash community.
Well, I'm very interested in adding LED mods to my controller, and I've found two different ways of doing it.@ Y-L I'm unable to fathom what exactly your question is, would you please try to formulate it in a different way?
I think I will just go with 3 then. One on each controller handle, and one in the center. I suppose I will go with method 2 then. A video would help a ton. I'm not planning on doing this until after Evo, so that works out perfectly. Thanks!Method 1 just involves cutting a wire because OP chose to do so, you can do it without. Adding 3 to 4 LED´s in permanent on mode won´t be a problem for consoles, they provide far enough power for that. Although 4 already is overkill, 5mm clear LED´s shine bright af. I´m gonna start working on modifying some gamecubes mid July and while I´m at it i might as well try to utter out my random incoherent thoughts in front of a camera to help some inexperienced people out.
If you have the wii u adapter you should be using native support. Sounds like you're using vjoy/pc mode.Alright, so I've started playing melee on dolphin, and it is running very well. I'm only having problems with my controller. I'm using the WiiU gamecube controller adapter, and whenever i try to side-smash to the left with the c-stick, nothing happens. The c-stick is working in the air just fine, and every other smash attack works, and no matter how many times I try to calibrate it, it doesn't seem to change. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm having a hard time finding a guide on setting up native.If you have the wii u adapter you should be using native support. Sounds like you're using vjoy/pc mode.
— Johnny Sjögren (@XX911wascoolXX) July 3, 2015