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Are you happy with your experience? Are they all basically the same brand or is there one in particular you recommend?I use a PS3/Wii cable for vga
It does sound like your Gamecube VGA cable has not been soldered all that well. I'd advise opening the large console-side connector, making good photos of the soldering and posting them here. Soldering on the chip connectors should only be done with a high-quality soldering iron, I learned this the hard way. (My first, really crappy soldering station didn't work well and caused a pin to break off, I had to melt away part of the chip's plastic housing to get access to the remaining pin inside. The soldering to it is still really finicky, so I handle that cable extremely carefully in order to not break it.)Hello everyone, this will be a long post. For a summary, go to the bottom. I recently received a modded Gamecube VGA cable (RGBHV), and it is having unusual problems. Its end is male D-SUB 15, but my VGA CRT (from 1993 by TTX, never seen specs for it) has a built-in male cable, so I'm playing through a dist amp (Kramer VP400). I've used gamecube and original Xbox YPbPr outputs converted to VGA with no problems (either through a startech CPNT2VGAA or the HDMI pass-through of a Razer Ripsaw capture card>HDMI-to-VGA passive adapter), but I get a very narrow widescreen image which scrolls very rapidly, similar to when you try to play PAL games in 50Hz mode on a TV that can't take that. This persists when I enable progressive mode. The output from the cable looks perfectly fine on a consumer LCD I tested (run through my Kramer dist amp) and on 1ms gaming LCDs (something by Asus). It isn't working well with my Startech USB3HDCAP (which I've tested to take gamecube and Xbox capture through the conversions mentioned above); it rarely gets detected and when it does it's as "640x2P 120.00Hz", though despite that, choosing the resolution as 720x480 or so does work on rare occasion, with a flickering green bar to the right of the gameplay.
With all that said, I wonder if, aside from having someone redo what must have been a shoddy mod, getting an extron rgb 164xi would solve this problem. I read through this whole thread and I didn't see a test for latency on the 164xi; does it have the Kadano seal of approval?
tl;dr vga cable gives rapidly scrolling, narrow image on CRT, doesn't work well with capture card. Is it a sync problem that can be solved by buying an extron rgb 164xi? Will it be lagless?
The StarTech documentation only mentions the CPNT2VGAA to be capable of '1080p', not '1080p60'. So chances are it only supports 1080p30 and 1080i60, but not 1080p60.Another newbie here, I'm looking for a component to VGA converter that will let me play Wii U in 1080p on a CRT monitor. I've tried the Startech CPNT2VGAA with no success - the result was a noticeably dim image with gray horizontal lines spaced evenly all up and down the screen, while 1080i and lower resolutions were fine. I'm hoping the Extron CVC 200 or 300 are capable of converting 1080p input to 1080p output. I would appreciate if anyone could actually confirm if this is the case.
Can you post a photo of the TV, especially of its back-side input panel? I'd like to say that the VGA RGBHV input, being in the native signal format CRTs use, will be processed directly, but with the late-era 'fancy' TVs, you never know which kind of annoying laggy post-processing they might have added. The design of the TV might be a somewhat decent indicator of that.Anyone have any info on the VGA input that some of the 480p trinitron TVs have? I want to use one (until i get a monitor) for my netplay set up and i have a trinitron with a vga input. Just curious if anyones tested or would know off hand how the lag is through the vga.
It does sound like your Gamecube VGA cable has not been soldered all that well. I'd advise opening the large console-side connector, making good photos of the soldering and posting them here. Soldering on the chip connectors should only be done with a high-quality soldering iron, I learned this the hard way. (My first, really crappy soldering station didn't work well and caused a pin to break off, I had to melt away part of the chip's plastic housing to get access to the remaining pin inside. The soldering to it is still really finicky, so I handle that cable extremely carefully in order to not break it.)
If you have a multimeter, you can check whether the grounds and shieldings are common (they should be). But taking the pictures is a good first step.
It seems I never posted my measurements of the Extron 164xi and its 'input lag'. I fortunately had a text document on my PC still that labeled what I measured in all the archive measurements I have, and the Extron 164xi is among them. As the screenshots below show, if there is any input lag, it is far below 0.1 µs. Even 0.1 µs are already short enough that the speed of light becomes relevant – you'd have the same amount of delay if you went 30 m away from the CRT. Of course it's an entirely negligible amount and the 164xi can be considered 'lagless' even by the very highest standards.
View attachment 135383 View attachment 135384 View attachment 135385
I do think that there's a good chance for the 164xi to clean up the sync signals properly so that your CRT monitor recognizes the levels properly. However, I'd only buy one after having opened the cable and got some diagnose on the soldering to the chip.
The StarTech documentation only mentions the CPNT2VGAA to be capable of '1080p', not '1080p60'. So chances are it only supports 1080p30 and 1080i60, but not 1080p60.
Extron documentation, on the other hand, explicitly lists both the CVC 200 and CVC 300 as being capable of 1080p60: https://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=cvc200
I do agree with A alasdaircampbell that opting for direct HDMI to VGA might be the better choice. HDMI to VGA converters are only 4€ and all seem to have 165 MHz chips, which should run 1080p60 (~125 MHz) just fine. I'll be buying this one here and test its lag: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ven...er-3-5mm-audio-interface-for/32502163410.html
Because of my oscilloscope not being sufficient for triggering off digital video signals, I'll only do measurements for Melee emulation, maybe with cloned outputs on native VGA and HDMI→VGA. So I won't be able to measure its lag nearly as accurately as with analog→analog devices, but it should still give significance for whether the input lag is below 4 ms or not.
Can you post a photo of the TV, especially of its back-side input panel? I'd like to say that the VGA RGBHV input, being in the native signal format CRTs use, will be processed directly, but with the late-era 'fancy' TVs, you never know which kind of annoying laggy post-processing they might have added. The design of the TV might be a somewhat decent indicator of that.
If the TV also has digital inputs, by instinct I'd say that it probably has lag on all the inputs. But CRT TVs that take anything above 480i60 are non-existent in Europe, so I'll probably never have the chance to test one to make sure.
I understand. The Ripsaw does look useful as an ad hoc component to HDMI converter with your attestation that it is virtually lagless.R renegadecrabman just to avoid any confusion, buying a Razer Ripsaw (a device that captures gameplay for streaming and recording through a computer running OBS) is not my recommendation. You could just use the HDMI output of the Wii U and connect the male HDMI end of an adapter (like Kadano linked to, HDMI male-VGA female) and a VGA cable to your CRT (gender may vary).
thanks for the info! hopefully itll hold me over until i get a monitor. Lookin at the AOC g2770pqu 144hz model. Should be able to get money for it sooner than later.Like I wrote before, since the TV has a digital input, it will probably have input lag. The input lag can be substantial, 24 ms and more, and since I avoid CRTs like that like the plague and they are barely available here in Europe anyway, I don't have much data on their variation in terms of input lag.
If you play on it and it feels less laggy than your LCD TV ("LED" TV is a marketing misnomer that only refers to the backlight of the TV that has nothing to do with the monitor's speed), it's a better choice than the latter, but unless you use an oscilloscope to measure its lag, you can't be sure that it's as lagless as a proper CRT.
Did you get the most recent updated one? I have the older one that fries your gamecube if you look at it the wrong way lol.I'm just gonna chime in here.
I recently bought ZeldaXPro's Gamecube HDMI adapter for the Gamecubes that have Digital out. I am currently playing on a LED PC monitor and I have to say it looks great! definitely a great thing to have, and is far cheaper than buying a PVM and the Gamecube Component cables. Thing is though, the larger the screen, the more stretched out your image will be, so it will obviously be better to find the smallest HD monitor you can that has HDMI inputs. Still, it's the best option since it makes connecting to the capture card incredibly easy.
You should be able to find that info in the service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/946967/Sony-Trinitron-Pvm-14l5.htmlSecondly, I came across a Sony PVM. it's the Sony PVM14L5. Thing is, when I got it, there were no screws on the housing. Anyone know what screws I need to close this bad boy up? I know it works, i tested it out with Melee and it's godlike, but I definitely need to be able to securely close it back up. Also, I'd like to know where I can get those metal plates that close up the expansion on the back.
Yeah, I got the most recent, smallest one. Works like a charm, and I'm wondering why there isn't a bigger movement to push these forward for tournaments. Melee tournaments will look so nice on modern monitors. But I do have to say, older CRTs, in all of their different shapes, sizes, and colors, will have their own charm that I wish won't ever completely go away.Did you get the most recent updated one? I have the older one that fries your gamecube if you look at it the wrong way lol.
You should be able to find that info in the service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/946967/Sony-Trinitron-Pvm-14l5.html
LCDs have at least 5-6 ms of total display lag over CRT at 60 Hz. From my understanding, it's expected that the Gamecube HDMI output doesn't save nearly as much over analog output / Wii2HDMI, so GC + HDMI + LCD will not be truly "lagless".Yeah, I got the most recent, smallest one. Works like a charm, and I'm wondering why there isn't a bigger movement to push these forward for tournaments. Melee tournaments will look so nice on modern monitors. But I do have to say, older CRTs, in all of their different shapes, sizes, and colors, will have their own charm that I wish won't ever completely go away.
If the screws are the same ones as on my Sony PVM-20M7MDE, they have an outer thread diameter of 3.85 mm, a thread length of 7.00 mm and a total length of 10.32 mm. Outer head diameter 9.7 mm.Thanks for the link! I tried looking for a while and I actually couldn't find anything. So I'm reading the manual, and according to what I'm seeing, there is a "claw case screw (OS))" which I need 6 of to put the case back onto the PVM. I did a quick google search, and I came across this
https://encompass.com/item/3724813/Sony/4-063-969-01/Screw_(Os),_Case,_Claw
Each screw is $3 each. While I'm a little bummed that i'll have to pay $20 for screws, I also want that piece of mind that this is secured. So, I ask, do you think this is the right one to buy?
This is true. While the lag is damn near non-existent in my experience, it still is there, and it still is something that is noticeable, but I must say, it is a very good option. I honestly have come across some CRT tvs that gave more lag than this GCHDMI+LED combo does. Not every Monitor is the same though, but I still would say that the pros in this case outweigh the cons. You'll get a better image clarity and color than nearly all CRTs can provide outside of the obvious PVM/BVMs, modern monitors are way easier to transport, and setting up capture cards is incredibly easier now thanks to it using HDMI. I'd really have to say that overall, I'd be fine with playing with this and not ever looking back at old CRTs. Now that I finally have a PVM, there's no way I can go back to traditional CRTs. I keep my PVM as my personal gaming system at home, and then I use my GCHDMI when I travel and want to bring Melee with me.LCDs have at least 5-6 ms of total display lag over CRT at 60 Hz. From my understanding, it's expected that the Gamecube HDMI output doesn't save nearly as much over analog output / Wii2HDMI, so GC + HDMI + LCD will not be truly "lagless".
Honestly, I don't know if the screws are the same, but I'm hoping they are and I have reason to believe they may be for the sake of simplicity. And these screws you're recommending to me now, is that all that's needed to hold the case together? Or do you believe that more is necessary? My PVM originally had these black studs in the back which kept the backing together with the shell, but all but one are now missing, so I don't even know what I'd replace those with.If the screws are the same ones as on my Sony PVM-20M7MDE, they have an outer thread diameter of 3.85 mm, a thread length of 7.00 mm and a total length of 10.32 mm. Outer head diameter 9.7 mm.
You can convert these units to medieval units (inches) by dividing by 2.54.
The appropriate US standard size seems to be #7, but for some reason that size is mostly unavailable in the correct type. The M4 (metric size 4) bolts I have around all fit just right, so I'd just order M4 screws from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...4-5-6-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-60/32703915664.html
I'd go with M4 x 6.0 mm, the original 7.0 mm thread length is a bit longer than necessary anyway. 6 USD or so with shipping for 100 pieces is a pretty good deal compared to the original ones, I'd say.
wait, what?From my understanding, it's expected that the Gamecube HDMI output doesn't save nearly as much over analog output / Wii2HDMI
5-6 ms certainly isn't a lot and doesn't make a noticeable difference in most situations / for most people.This is true. While the lag is damn near non-existent in my experience, it still is there, and it still is something that is noticeable, but I must say, it is a very good option. I honestly have come across some CRT tvs that gave more lag than this GCHDMI+LED combo does. Not every Monitor is the same though, but I still would say that the pros in this case outweigh the cons. You'll get a better image clarity and color than nearly all CRTs can provide outside of the obvious PVM/BVMs, modern monitors are way easier to transport, and setting up capture cards is incredibly easier now thanks to it using HDMI. I'd really have to say that overall, I'd be fine with playing with this and not ever looking back at old CRTs. Now that I finally have a PVM, there's no way I can go back to traditional CRTs. I keep my PVM as my personal gaming system at home, and then I use my GCHDMI when I travel and want to bring Melee with me.
Well yeah, when I disassembled my PVM, it was only the screws that held it together IIRC. There might have been additional parts that added to it, but since I don't remember them, I'm confident that the screws alone will be sufficient.Honestly, I don't know if the screws are the same, but I'm hoping they are and I have reason to believe they may be for the sake of simplicity. And these screws you're recommending to me now, is that all that's needed to hold the case together? Or do you believe that more is necessary? My PVM originally had these black studs in the back which kept the backing together with the shell, but all but one are now missing, so I don't even know what I'd replace those with.
Analog to digital converters (as well as digital to analog converters) can, to my understanding, be assumed to convert from one format to the other within 0.1 ms or less, except if they do advanced stuff like deinterlacing, motion interpolation, overlays or frame rate conversion.wait, what?
Oh wait, let me clarify. Are you saying that effective latency Wii2HDMI == GCVideo (various digital out -> HDMI projects) == 0?Analog to digital converters (as well as digital to analog converters) can, to my understanding, be assumed to convert from one for...
Yeah. By "doesn't save nearly as much over Wii2HDMI" I meant that the lag introduced by the LCD (over CRT) is (most probably) much much higher than the reduction in 'output lag' on GCVideo compared to Wii2HDMI.Oh wait, let me clarify. Are you saying that effective latency Wii2HDMI == GCVideo (various digital out -> HDMI projects) == 0?
On my first read I thought you were saying effective latency Wii2HDMI < GCVideo which didn't make sense to me
It is definitely wrong to say that LCD/LED setups are lagless. They may have minimal lag, but to outright say they are lagless is deceiving.5-6 ms certainly isn't a lot and doesn't make a noticeable difference in most situations / for most people.
I agree that the pros might outweigh the cons, I just think it's deceiving and wrong to call these LCD setups 'lagless'.
Concerning image clarity and color, many VGA CRTs are still better than LCDs, I would say, especially in terms of contrast and peak brightness. (In recent measurements I did, my old Sony GDM-F520 reference VGA CRT monitor had about 3x the peak brightness than the BenQ RL2455HM set to 100 brightness, measured with two equally set photodiodes at the same time).
It's only the 480i CRT TVs that are clearly worse than 480p LCDs. As soon as you switch to 480p CRTs, it's hard to find any advantage of LCDs, except for weight and portability, of course.
Well yeah, when I disassembled my PVM, it was only the screws that held it together IIRC. There might have been additional parts that added to it, but since I don't remember them, I'm confident that the screws alone will be sufficient.
Any M4 size screws that look like the ones I linked should work. Local stores that sell screws / bolts should have them.
You are missing component video (YPbPr) output for 480i. You have it listed for 480p, but not 480i. Also, not all TVs in Europe support RGB SCART. Some didn't have SCART at all. Some only did composite over SCART. Etc.480i
1. RF (legacy signal for ancient TVs, hopefully nobody still uses this nowadays)
2. CVBS / “Composite” (legacy signal for simple TVs, most common standard)
3. S-Video (best signal most(?) TVs in America accept)
4. RGB-SCART (best signal all TVs in Europe accept; also the native signal used by CRTs)
Neither of those Sony TVs you have listed are 480p. They are both 480i FD Trinitrons.. CRT EDTVs (average cost: 30-70$)
These have component inputs and support 480p. However, only some of them are confirmed to not have any lag, among them the Sony KV-20FS120 and the Sony KV-24FS100. Untested EDTVs should be avoided or at least play-tested at the seller's place before buying. Many of the EDTV CRTs lag 8-30 ms, which is borderline to completely unplayable.
Thank you, I have corrected the two sections.You have some missing and incorrect info on here.
You are missing component video (YPbPr) output for 480i. You have it listed for 480p, but not 480i. Also, not all TVs in Europe support RGB SCART. Some didn't have SCART at all. Some only did composite over SCART. Etc.
Neither of those Sony TVs you have listed are 480p. They are both 480i FD Trinitrons.
I was checking to see if you lag tested any HD CRTs against CRT monitors and noticed these issues, so figured I'd contribute.
I'm not 100% on how my 30XS955 handles 480p -- scale it to 1080i or 720p or just display it as is. When I ran the manual lag test at 480p, I was getting 0.6 frames, which is likely my lag. I just need to get ahold of a good CRT monitor so I can test them with the mirror timer test.Thank you, I have corrected the two sections.
I'd love to lag test HD CRTs against CRT monitors, however outside of the Sony PVM-20M7MDE which I own and have measured already, I'm not aware of any 480p-capable CRT TVs (and even the PVM is not really a TV) to exist in Europe, sadly.