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Project M 3.6 Online via Dolphin Netplay Setup + Optimization Guide

texh

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Does anyone know where you can get the generic Windows 7 gamepad driver?

I overwrote it with the mayflash driver but that one doesn't allow to calibrate the L/R button presses
 

Y-L

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Does anyone know where you can get the generic Windows 7 gamepad driver?

I overwrote it with the mayflash driver but that one doesn't allow to calibrate the L/R button presses
Uninstalling the Mayflash drivers and plugging in the controller will automatically install them. Refer to the FAQ and download my GCPad settings.
 

texh

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Uninstalling the Mayflash drivers and plugging in the controller will automatically install them. Refer to the FAQ and download my GCPad settings.
I did as you said and while it usually shows like 50% in the Dolphin settings for the L/R press it's still extremely sensible and I end up shielding most of the time. :(
 

Droß

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I did as you said and while it usually shows like 50% in the Dolphin settings for the L/R press it's still extremely sensible and I end up shielding most of the time. :(
Make sure your L and R button inputs are fully pressed down, and your L/R analogs are only to the point before it does the clicky thing. If you click, it's a full button press. I had issues with this too until I realized what I did wrong.
 
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texh

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Make sure your L and R button inputs are fully pressed down, and your L/R analogs are only to the point before it does the clicky thing. If you click, it's a full button press. I had issues with this too until I realized what I did wrong.
I'm pretty sure it's set-up correctly, L/R show as button 04, 05 and the presses as Xr and Yr axises. They still stay pressed all the time though.

Also here is link to reddit thread I made yesterday about it
http://www.reddit.com/r/SSBPM/comments/26vzsn/mayflash_adapter_lr_triggers_issue/
 

texh

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Manually redo xr and xy.
Do you mean right click and choose corresponding button? I have already tried all the Xr-/+/-+... options there are but still no help at all, although it would make the buttons constantly not completely pressed at least.
 

Y-L

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Do you mean right click and choose corresponding button? I have already tried all the Xr-/+/-+... options there are but still no help at all, although it would make the buttons constantly not completely pressed at least.
Do not right click, but left click on the L/R analog buttons and push the corresponding one in on the controller until right before it clicks.
 
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texh

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Do not right click, but left click on the L/R analog buttons and push the corresponding one in on the controller until right before it clicks.
If I do that, Dolphin recognizes it as completely pressed, 50% or nothing all the time, usually just fully pressed (without recognizing the L/R after click buttons).

It shows the same problem in USB Gamepad properties but no option to recalibrate the L/R analog presses and so I wanted to get the Windows driver which had the option iirc
 

Y-L

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If I do that, Dolphin recognizes it as completely pressed, 50% or nothing all the time, usually just fully pressed (without recognizing the L/R after click buttons).

It shows the same problem in USB Gamepad properties but no option to recalibrate the L/R analog presses and so I wanted to get the Windows driver which had the option iirc
If you uninstalled the mayflash drivers then unplugged your adapter and replugged it in it should be ok, just try to redo both L/R analog and L/R press.
 

texh

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If you uninstalled the mayflash drivers then unplugged your adapter and replugged it in it should be ok, just try to redo both L/R analog and L/R press.
Still no improvement, guess the main issue is with the driver itself. When I insert it after uninstalling, it launches the Windows Center or something to search for drivers but ends up installing the old mayflash one again.

This wasn't issue before uninstalling the WIndows drivers.
 
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Y-L

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Still no improvement, guess the main issue is with the driver itself. When I insert it after uninstalling, it launches the Windows Center or something to search for drivers but ends up installing the old mayflash one again.

This wasn't issue before uninstalling the WIndows drivers.
The issue is uninstalling mayflash and windows should auto install its own it can't install mayflash's drivers..
 

texh

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The issue is uninstalling mayflash and windows should auto install its own it can't install mayflash's drivers..
That's what i would think as well, but I guess they are in the adapter or something. It's Plug and Play after all.

Also that's why I originally posted here
Does anyone know where you can get the generic Windows 7 gamepad driver?

I overwrote it with the mayflash driver but that one doesn't allow to calibrate the L/R button presses
 

Y-L

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That's what i would think as well, but I guess they are in the adapter or something. It's Plug and Play after all.

Also that's why I originally posted here
Yes, it's plug and play because Windows automatically installs drivers as soon as you plug it in. Mayflash's drivers will not get permanently put on the device after they are uninstalled. You can check if you have the Mayflash or Windows driver by going to control panel->hardware/sound->devices and printers->right click usb gamepad->hardware->properties->driver->driver details. If it says Mayflash, then you didn't uninstall it. If it says Microsoft, you are running Windows drivers.
 

texh

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Yes, it's plug and play because Windows automatically installs drivers as soon as you plug it in. Mayflash's drivers will not get permanently put on the device after they are uninstalled. You can check if you have the Mayflash or Windows driver by going to control panel->hardware/sound->devices and printers->right click usb gamepad->hardware->properties->driver->driver details. If it says Mayflash, then you didn't uninstall it. If it says Microsoft, you are running Windows drivers.
So weirdly enough it IS Windows driver but before I uninstalled it for the first time, there was some upgraded version which allowed to me to calibrate the L/R presses.

Original one I had


Current one


And I have no clue where to get the original one again.
Also these are not how exactly they look for me but it should give you the idea, the bottom one has Rx, Ry next to the left and right joystick which is for the L/R analog presses but unlike the main stick and c-stick it can't be calibrated in the Calibration tab.
 
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victinivcreate1

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Unsure if this is the right place to ask this question, but here I go

I plan on buying an Alienware m17 R5 pretty soon. Would one of these things with these specs be good for running Project M Netplay?

-4th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-4710MQ Processor
-Windows 7 Operating System
-17.3" WLED FHD (1920 x 1080) Anti-Glare Display
-NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 860M graphics with 2GB total GDDR5
-8GB DDR3L at 1600MHz (2 x 4G) Memory
 

Y-L

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Unsure if this is the right place to ask this question, but here I go

I plan on buying an Alienware m17 R5 pretty soon. Would one of these things with these specs be good for running Project M Netplay?

-4th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-4710MQ Processor
-Windows 7 Operating System
-17.3" WLED FHD (1920 x 1080) Anti-Glare Display
-NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 860M graphics with 2GB total GDDR5
-8GB DDR3L at 1600MHz (2 x 4G) Memory
Some things to consider:
  • Alienware is overpriced s***
  • A desktop will have much better price/performance than any laptop
  • A laptop with a dedicated graphics card shares the heatsink with the CPU which will cause it to overheat faster, unless you are playing other pc games with high GPU requirements, dedicated card is waste of money and the integrated graphics of that card will run 2-3x IR on PM. You can disable using the dedicated card in Dolphin, but still a waste of money.

That cpu is one of the best laptop cpu's for Dolphin so yes that laptop would for sure run PM no problem. Here is a link to the laptop I own and is probably much cheaper than that one but will perform about the same as that one. It has (essentially) the same CPU as the one you showed me. You can customize it for a 1080p display/backlit keyboard or whatever, but it is a 15.6 inch screen instead of 17.3. Keep in mind though a desktop will always perform better than a laptop and will cost much less, but if you are set on a laptop, shoot for an i7 4700MQ or better (better isn't necessary, especially for PM; it is a very low-resource game Dolphin wise).
 
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Y-L

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So weirdly enough it IS Windows driver but before I uninstalled it for the first time, there was some upgraded version which allowed to me to calibrate the L/R presses.

Original one I had


Current one


And I have no clue where to get the original one again.
Also these are not how exactly they look for me but it should give you the idea, the bottom one has Rx, Ry next to the left and right joystick which is for the L/R analog presses but unlike the main stick and c-stick it can't be calibrated in the Calibration tab.
Looks like, at least in that first picture, you are using a ps3 driver.
Can you post a screenshot of your Dolphin GCPad settings without you touching your controller?
 

victinivcreate1

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Some things to consider:
  • Alienware is overpriced s***
  • A desktop will have much better price/performance than any laptop
  • A laptop with a dedicated graphics card shares the heatsink with the CPU which will cause it to overheat faster, unless you are playing other pc games with high GPU requirements, dedicated card is waste of money and the integrated graphics of that card will run 2-3x IR on PM. You can disable using the dedicated card in Dolphin, but still a waste of money.

That cpu is one of the best laptop cpu's for Dolphin so yes that laptop would for sure run PM no problem. Here is a link to the laptop I own and is probably much cheaper than that one but will perform about the same as that one. It has (essentially) the same CPU as the one you showed me. You can customize it for a 1080p display/backlit keyboard or whatever, but it is a 15.6 inch screen instead of 17.3. Keep in mind though a desktop will always perform better than a laptop and will cost much less, but if you are set on a laptop, shoot for an i7 4700MQ or better (better isn't necessary, especially for PM; it is a very low-resource game Dolphin wise).
Thanks. Also have you actually owned an Alienware before? They're actually good computers. Dell's customer service us bad, but their warranty is actually the only warranty that is legitimate.
 

Y-L

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Thanks. Also have you actually owned an Alienware before? They're actually good computers. Dell's customer service us bad, but their warranty is actually the only warranty that is legitimate.
No I have not. I'm sure they are very good computers, they look great and perform great as well. However for the hardware you get, they charge you about 25% more than it's really worth just for the brand alienware.
 

victinivcreate1

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No I have not. I'm sure they are very good computers, they look great and perform great as well. However for the hardware you get, they charge you about 25% more than it's really worth just for the brand alienware.
Can't argue with that. They are namebrand and they charge more than they should. But at least I know that what I'm getting is something that looks pretty and is powerful as well. But your HP looks interesting.
 

Y-L

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Can't argue with that. They are namebrand and they charge more than they should. But at least I know that what I'm getting is something that looks pretty and is powerful as well. But your HP looks interesting.
Well assuming it doesn't bother you to have a smaller screen and to not have the aesthetic leds that Alienwares are known to have, both will perform the same in Dolphin and the only hardware difference is the dedicated card (the HP has the option to opt for a dedicated card but it won't be on the same level as the Alienware, although it wouldn't matter for PM and both could run most high end games). To me, the little bonuses the Alienware has isn't worth the (I'm guessing) $300 price difference.
 

Y-L

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That Alien light show. The deciding factor between getting the HP and the Alienware :troll:
Oh I derped, the one I selected for you is actually a 17.3 inch. I have the 15.6 inch though. For $10 you can upgrade the CPU to the one the alienware has (not worth it) and there's more upgrade options for the CPU all the way up to i7 4900MQ (still not worth i7 4700mq is plenty powerful).
$100 upgrades the resolution to 1080p, $85 upgrades to a gt 740m dedicated card (you don't need if only using Dolphin). Also $30 upgrades to backlit keyboard.

Personally I think the HP is much better to suit your needs, but again the decision is yours.
 

victinivcreate1

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Considering I plan on using a computer for PM Netplay, high end gaming, multi tasking, tons of video editing and a mini disco ball XD, I think I'll go with the Ware. Plus I literally can get it in two weeks. I can wait.
 

Y-L

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Considering I plan on using a computer for PM Netplay, high end gaming, multi tasking, tons of video editing and a mini disco ball XD, I think I'll go with the Ware. Plus I literally can get it in two weeks. I can wait.
Just checked the price, JEEZ that's expensive. Anyways, the good thing about alienwares is that they are gaming laptops, not high end multimedia, which means they usually have excellent cooling. Just make sure you go in Dolphin and go to options->graphics settings->graphics adapter->switch to intel integrated graphics.
However with better cooling on alienware laptop you may not need to do this. Just keep it in the back of your mind.
 

texh

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Looks like, at least in that first picture, you are using a ps3 driver.
Can you post a screenshot of your Dolphin GCPad settings without you touching your controller?
That was some random pic from net but interface looked same.

Here's the screenshot
The L/R Analog buttons get fully red after slightest press, sometimes half-way through as well.
Game is still playable with L/R buttons only so I may just go with that.
 

Bungle

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Where you mentioned getting an error about cygwin.dll, I'm getting one about cygidn-11.dll being missing from my computer, (not sure if that's the same thing). The process ends pretty much immediately after the message and the Project M iso hasn't been built. I'll keep trying and see if I can get it to work somehow, but help!
 

Y-L

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Where you mentioned getting an error about cygwin.dll, I'm getting one about cygidn-11.dll being missing from my computer, (not sure if that's the same thing). The process ends pretty much immediately after the message and the Project M iso hasn't been built. I'll keep trying and see if I can get it to work somehow, but help!
Yes that is the correct error. Try running as administrator and make sure you have enough hard drive space. If that doesn't work post a picture of the builder when it's done.
 

Bungle

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Yes that is the correct error. Try running as administrator and make sure you have enough hard drive space. If that doesn't work post a picture of the builder when it's done.
When I don't run as administrator what it does is more in line with what you're saying should happen, but I notice a lot of 'can't find' stuff flashing by and it takes like 10 seconds rather than 10-45 mins and the project m iso is nowhere to be seen at the end. When I do run it as administrator it simple says it can't find projectm/pf, even though the project m folder containing 'pf' is in the same folder as the builder! I really appreciate the help, and if you can get this to work I will love you <3
(I have 134GB free so I doubt that's the issue)

This is what it looks like when I DON'T run it as administrator:
making project m iso.png
 

Y-L

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When I don't run as administrator what it does is more in line with what you're saying should happen, but I notice a lot of 'can't find' stuff flashing by and it takes like 10 seconds rather than 10-45 mins and the project m iso is nowhere to be seen at the end. When I do run it as administrator it simple says it can't find projectm/pf, even though the project m folder containing 'pf' is in the same folder as the builder! I really appreciate the help, and if you can get this to work I will love you <3
(I have 134GB free so I doubt that's the issue)

This is what it looks like when I DON'T run it as administrator:
View attachment 15286
What happens if you do run as administrator? Also is your iso NTSC? Where are your files located?
 

Y-L

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That was some random pic from net but interface looked same.

Here's the screenshot
The L/R Analog buttons get fully red after slightest press, sometimes half-way through as well.
Game is still playable with L/R buttons only so I may just go with that.
I'm going to go ahead and send you here as they can probably give you a much better answer than I. Sorry I can't help you further.
 

Bungle

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What happens if you do run as administrator? Also is your iso NTSC? Where are your files located?
When I run it as admin this happens:
ran as admin.png


I'm pretty sure it is NTSC, I use it to play project M on my wii with no issues so that should probably confirm that.

As for where my files are located I'll upload another image in a second. I could write it out but I feel like an image would make it more obvious if I'm doing something wrong.

Again, thanks for your help. I really want to get this working!
 

Bungle

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This is the folder I've got everything in, the 'projectm' folder contains 'full', 'launcher', 'pf' and 'wifi' as folders, and 'info' as an XML document
my files.png
 

Bungle

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I just had a thought, I know people who already have netplay set up. What if they were to send me the already constructed project m iso via google drive or something? Is there any reason why that wouldn't work? :o
 

Y-L

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I just had a thought, I know people who already have netplay set up. What if they were to send me the already constructed project m iso via google drive or something? Is there any reason why that wouldn't work? :o
You are missing rsbe01.gct from the codes folder..
I cannot advocate anything to do with isos because officially that is illegal.
It is nice to learn how to build it as well in case PM has an update or you want the community build we are making.
 

Droß

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I'm getting some terrible stuttering on 10 down 8 up Fios internet playing against people from the east coast. I've been double and triple checking the settings, have all the desync problems ironed out, but the game is unbearably laggy. Is there anything I can do to improve performance?
 
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