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Gamecube Contoller Shield Mechanics

Hulez

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Hulezzz
So I've recently gotten into the competitive aspect of Smash4 (and Smash in general) and I know shield comes out with the actual click of the shoulder triggers of the Gamecube controller, which is why a digital button is better.

My question is, how beneficial is removing the trigger's springs for competitive play? Is it legal in tournaments? I've searched extensively and I could not find any thread discussing this as of the new Smash game. I've tried using Hori battle pad, and I love it, but I just couldn't get over the idea of input lag and the sensitive control stick. If you have experience with this, I'd like to read your insight but, any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

2busywinning

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You can't alter your controller in any legitimate tournament. In previous smash games, when you lightly pressed the shield button, it would light shield but I don't think you can light shield anymore which I don't care for but oh well.
 

Hulez

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You can't alter your controller in any legitimate tournament. In previous smash games, when you lightly pressed the shield button, it would light shield but I don't think you can light shield anymore which I don't care for but oh well.
Well, I know for Brawl shield was digital too, so there wasn't a light shield. But there was for melee I believe.
 

Thinkaman

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You are allowed to modify your controller.

But removing the springs won't help, and will make the controller unusable for Smash 4. Smash 4 shoulders register any analog movement as an input.
 

Jaxas

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Spring removal was definitely standard for Brawl...

And as Thinkaman said, it doesn't work (much to my displeasure...)
What seems to happen is that when you click the L/R button, it will send a "press" signal, but it won't let you send another "press" signal until it has sent a "fully reset" (lifted) signal first.

By the way, anyone have ways around this? I tried putting things like Qtip sticks in the triggers and it worked fairly well, but it didn't 'click' well enough for my liking (felt mushy). Anyone had any success?
 

Cronoc

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I've had these problems as well, and decided I couldn't deal with the inaccuracy of the analog triggers. I went with the Hori Battle Pad instead. Its buttons aren't quite up to Nintendo's quality but it doesn't matter - it's the gamecube mold with proper digital triggers.
 

Hulez

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I've had these problems as well, and decided I couldn't deal with the inaccuracy of the analog triggers. I went with the Hori Battle Pad instead. Its buttons aren't quite up to Nintendo's quality but it doesn't matter - it's the gamecube mold with proper digital triggers.
I just compared the GC controller and hori side by side and it doesn't seem to have any input lag that's noticeable to the human eye.

Although the Control stick of the GC is way more accurate and not as sensitive, I really do enjoy the digital buttons up top that the Hori battle pad has.

Advantages:
  • GC (new black Smash model): More accurate control stick, feels better made, wired connectivity
  • Hori: Digital shoulder buttons

Disadvantages:
  • GC: R/L are analog causing shields to take longer to come out, Z button still hard to press
  • Hori: Wireless connectivity causing some sort (if any) input lag, Control stick is too sensitive to be as accurate as GC controller
I guess it just really comes down to which one I choose to get used to.... sigh. I usually use L as a jump button and it's tough on the GC, but I spent so much time tryina get an adapter lol. If only they had a GC controller with digital buttons....
 
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T0MMY

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I found that if I do a button reset on the controller by pressing & holding X/Y/Start for a few seconds while keeping the L/R buttons halfway pressed it'll reset with less analog. I did it one more time with them penultimately pressed (right before the click) and upon reset it worked like a springless controller.
However, it still had its springs in it. So at that point I could remove the springs and it'd work just fine.
But I'd have to do this every time I unplug my controller, which is even less feasible then the trick to get it to work to begin with, haha. I just use the springs, I prefer a good stick to Hori controller sans springs.
 

cot(θ)

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Not really contributing, but I'd like to mention that this is a point in favor of the pro controller.
 

smasher1001

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Someone posted awhile back about physically modding the wiring inside the gcube controller to consider the full down press a soft press on the controller so that it functions like a springless one in brawl did. I sent him a few of my controllers and got em back and they work like a dream for smash 4. Thanks to this, I have click shoulder buttons(no springs) that function just like removing the springs in brawl did.

Edit: Basically I've got digital shoulder buttons like the hori except on an actual gcube controller and it feels fantastic.
 
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Hulez

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Hulezzz
Someone posted awhile back about physically modding the wiring inside the gcube controller to consider the full down press a soft press on the controller so that it functions like a springless one in brawl did. I sent him a few of my controllers and got em back and they work like a dream for smash 4. Thanks to this, I have click shoulder buttons(no springs) that function just like removing the springs in brawl did.

Edit: Basically I've got digital shoulder buttons like the hori except on an actual gcube controller and it feels fantastic.
Ahhh man, how did he do that?! Possibly message me the info?

Not really contributing, but I'd like to mention that this is a point in favor of the pro controller.
Haha, I'd have to agree.
 

Hulez

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I mailed .dissent a few of my controllers to mod and got em back, though he also has a youtube guide if you're used to soddering yourself(im not lol, hence me paying to mail mine and back and throwing em a tip for doing me a favor ^.^)
Thank you very much!
 
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