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Q&A The Official Technical Issues Q&A thread (TV's, Controllers, gamecubes, etc)

Kazeshin

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Messages
11
Location
Netplay
I've been thinking about making my own custom controller to skip the waiting time for the smashbox and maybe add some customization for myself.
Which exact conditions do I have to meet for it to be considered legal?
Sorry if this is offtopic, but i couldn't find a more fitting topic to ask this in.

Edit: one specific thing I had in mind was to make a 5th C button that also interrupts the control stick input so that I can nair while moving more optimally
 
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SpeedyJ

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
269
Location
Auckland, NZ
I have a theory that shield dropping works differently depending on the TV/monitor and was hoping people could share their thoughts.

I play on a monitor at home and the controller I use shield drops (Axe method) perfectly fine on both sides. I then went to a tournament today and could do it on one of the CRTs but not the other three... It wasn't even a matter of in-game pressure as I attempted this during hand warmers.

Does anyone know what could cause this discrepancy or at least experienced this before?
 

Dolla Pills

Smash Ace
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
894
Location
Connecticut
I have a theory that shield dropping works differently depending on the TV/monitor and was hoping people could share their thoughts.

I play on a monitor at home and the controller I use shield drops (Axe method) perfectly fine on both sides. I then went to a tournament today and could do it on one of the CRTs but not the other three... It wasn't even a matter of in-game pressure as I attempted this during hand warmers.

Does anyone know what could cause this discrepancy or at least experienced this before?
I'm not aware of difference in TV's affecting shield drops, and in my experience this is not the case.

There can be some differences between setups however. If the setup is running Nintendont on a Wii there is a setting for "Native Control" which is disabled by default, but it should be enabled to allow accurate controller inputs. I believe having it disabled makes it much harder to shield drop. Also, I wouldn't be too surprised if there was a difference between Dolphin/ netplay and console when it comes to shield dropping. Finally, there's a chance your controller just didn't plug in well, so try resetting it if you find you can't shield drop on a setup
 

SpeedyJ

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
269
Location
Auckland, NZ
What is the cause for controllers to lose functionality in the triggers?

I found an old controller which works fine except the L button can't be hard pressed so wavedashing is literally impossible. Is it best the controller just be used for parts since it looks like you can't really remove the mechanism?

Thanks

upload_2017-4-23_16-9-38.png
 

Dolla Pills

Smash Ace
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
894
Location
Connecticut
What is the cause for controllers to lose functionality in the triggers?

I found an old controller which works fine except the L button can't be hard pressed so wavedashing is literally impossible. Is it best the controller just be used for parts since it looks like you can't really remove the mechanism?

Thanks

View attachment 128310
The hard press part is actually the pad sticking out to the right of where you circled, and I believe there's some conductive material on the underside of the trigger as well that you should be able to see being pushed when you push down on the trigger. I'd look there to see if there's anything abnormal
 

DankBison

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
1
I have a gamestop branded gamecube controller and nintendont is not recognizing it. Any ideas? im on wii btw
 

TheRealAstro

Smash Rookie
Joined
Apr 21, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Illinois
I have a gamestop branded gamecube controller and nintendont is not recognizing it. Any ideas? im on wii btw
I used to use a gamestop branded gamecube controller as well. Thats an interesting problem. When you say not recognizing it do you mean when you start up the game the controller isnt working?
 

Emrys

Smash Rookie
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Germany
I removed the spring from my right shoulder trigger.
The timing for wavedashes and powershields feels better now,
but the force of pressing the digital input is enough to make the shoulder trigger jump up higher than i would like.

What can I do so that the trigger does not jump higher than it really needs to?
I guess I could perforate the rubber to reduce the force, but that would change how it feels. Are there any other solutions?
 

CursedKaiju

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
103
so whenever i download an iso it turns into a dif, can i play with others over netplay or no?
 

Qwerty2084

Smash Cadet
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Messages
48
Slippi.gg
QTY#396
So my Black GameCube controller’s R button is messed up, in Melee/PM, Light shield doesn’t work, and it randomly holds a Light shield until I reset the controller. In Sm4sh however, shield doesn’t even work. I replaced the white rubber plate on the button (this thing->https://goo.gl/images/Fx7bjD), but it i didn’t fix anything, so I just switched the bottom shell with another controller and now the R button won’t work! Can someone please help me?

EDIT: The problem seems to happen less now, but I also figured out that pressing R with the controller straight up can fix the problem.
 
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Qwerty2084

Smash Cadet
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Messages
48
Slippi.gg
QTY#396
EDIT 2: I think it’s a problem with the motherboard, the slider thing doesn’t stay still. Can anyone help me?
 

ande

Smash Cadet
Joined
Apr 28, 2016
Messages
35
Hey guys, got a problem.

Today i started my gamecube and it strangely went immidiatly to this menu where you can look at your memory cards and stuff, you know what i mean ^^

It doesnt even go like step by step completing the logo and then to the menu, it just goes right to the menu. Not like if it wasnt reading the disc.

So in the menu i can see that the game is read by the gamecube but i cant confirm by pressing a to start niether can i press a to go in my memory card or other setting, my b butten otherwise works just fine.

I'm sure it isnt the controller or my game and probably not the lense because it reads all my games.

My gamecube is also quit old, about 2005 and the closing mechanism is broken which means i had to tape it shut and/or put an objekt on top.

I would really appreciate any help cause i would love to keep my old gamecube.

TL;DR: Gamecube isnt working, reads disc but always boots to consolmenu
 
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DRGN

Technowizard
Moderator
Premium
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
2,175
Location
Sacramento, CA
Hey guys, got a problem.

Today i started my gamecube and it strangely went immidiatly to this menu where you can look at your memory cards and stuff, you know what i mean ^^

It doesnt even go like step by step completing the logo and then to the menu, it just goes right to the menu. Not like if it wasnt reading the disc.

So in the menu i can see that the game is read by the gamecube but i cant confirm by pressing a to start niether can i press a to go in my memory card or other setting, my b butten otherwise works just fine.

I'm sure it isnt the controller or my game and probably not the lense because it reads all my games.

My gamecube is also quit old, about 2005 and the closing mechanism is broken which means i had to tape it shut and/or put an objekt on top.

I would really appreciate any help cause i would love to keep my old gamecube.

TL;DR: Gamecube isnt working, reads disc but always boots to consolmenu
No GC boot-up animation? That's pretty weird. I could be wrong, but that plus A/Start not working makes my only guess to be that the BIOS (IPL) is corrupted. You would either have to learn how to flash that, or get a new GC (or at least a new GC motherboard). The only thing I can think of trying before that is maybe reset the BIOS settings, in case there is something completely off with them, possibly causing weird behavior. To do that, you'd have to take the GC apart, and disconnect the daughterboard that has the controller ports and button cell battery (which keeps the system clock and probably some system settings saved when the system doesn't have external power). Leave it disconnected for at least half a minute or so, then put it back together and try booting up a game.

Hello friends, I left my controller in a box while moving some things, and the plug got crushed! Is there anything I can do it fix it, or is it just dead? https://imgur.com/VpK5oVk
That's fixable, but you'll still probably need to buy a few things.

First, you'll need to buy a tri-wing screwdriver, which are cheap; just a couple bucks (and you'll probably get more use out of this later if you plan to keep playing GameCube games). Open the controller and you'll see that GameCube wire you're holding in the picture connected to a circuit board. If all you want to save is the case of the controller, then just swap out all of the electronics and the wire with another controller's electronics. This is the easiest solution, assuming you have a good/new set of joysticks/electronics. However, since those are harder to come by, that's probably what you're more interested in saving. To do that, you'll need to learn how to solder; desolder the original GameCube wire from the circuit board, and solder on a new one. And by new one, I mean pretty much any, as that's not a part that easily goes bad or changes with time; so you could simply buy an old broken controller from ebay or something for a few bucks. The wire doesn't vary at all across different types of GC controller, besides color, so any will do. You could try looking for a few videos on YouTube to learn how to solder. If they don't explain what to do with flux, keep looking, it's not a good video.
 

ande

Smash Cadet
Joined
Apr 28, 2016
Messages
35
Thanks for the answer!

I don't really have the technical knowlegde to understand what you meant exactly but i will look into it.

I tried to start my GC many times since this happend and sometimes it starts just fine, but most of the time it does this wierd thing but after i restarted it about 10x either it doesnt work and i give up for now or it strangly starts for no particular reason.

I tried to unplug my third Party Controller time befor i got to work and it started perfect, but this of course could be just coincidence.

I could post a Video if anyone is intressted.
 
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Qwerty2084

Smash Cadet
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Messages
48
Slippi.gg
QTY#396
Yea I’d like to see a video on that, because that sounds weird and I’ve never heard something as weird as that.
 

Kadano

Magical Express
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
2,160
Location
Vienna, Austria
I have a question about this component to VGA converter. Has anyone used it before because I am trying to get my Wii hooked up to my CRT monitor. Does it generate any lag? I am trying to play this in 480p through VGA.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEW-Arca...ideo-Converter-Board-HD9800-GBS8200/556136578
I don't know any longer where I had found it, but I read a report by someone that those devices have lag, in the order of 8-25 ms. So better forget about it.
 

smashmaster2002

Smash Rookie
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Messages
2
Are there any VGA devices for the Wii that have less lag? I heard that the mayflash cable has glitches and I want to find something else.
 

reverie2

Smash Apprentice
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
158
I'm using a new controller and when I'm inputting jump with Y (fullhop) into c stick up, the upair input isn't registering frequently, and I get a raw fullhop. I have 20xx open, and the controller inputs display, and everything looks as expected. I'm making sure to input the c stick directly upwards. Anyone know a fix, or know what's going on? The c stick up input failed about 1 in 4 times. When I input c stick, I make sure I tap it and hold it all the way. I never experienced this with my previous controller so Im pretty sure I"m inputting the exact same way I normally do

If I just try and stand on the ground and do up on c stick for raw upsmash, they seem to all go through though.
 

BXBX

Smash Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2018
Messages
56
I just discovered that holding L or R while plugging in the controller disables light shielding and makes wavedashing so much easier for me. Is this something that others use or does it have more disadvantages than advantages?
 

Treatz

Smash Rookie
Joined
Sep 12, 2017
Messages
8
Location
OW HIGH OW
Sup. Picked up a free CRT today don't think it was left outside however when I plug my wii in and use it the display of what the console is drawing is really really funky. My PS2 works perfectly fine with the CRT and as a first time owner of a CRT I have no clue what to do to fix this issue.

If need be I can upload a video of the PS2 doing PS2 things as I will upload a video of what I am talking about with my wii.
The Wii + crt being funky. In those odd diagonal thingies it is showing copies of the homescreen if that's not clear, it took me a bit to recognize this.

Thanks for any help in advance, sorry for being a noob.

Edit: fixed, sorry for wasting space in this thread.
 
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Lauzonga

Smash Rookie
Joined
Aug 5, 2020
Messages
2
I messed up

Hi. I messed up. I recently finished downloading Nintendont to use to play 20XX (SSBM). After doing so I proceeded to install Priiloader as I was borrowing a Wii Remote and wouldn't have access to one after I finished borrowing it.

My problem is:

I installed the wrong file into Priiloader, now evertime I have Priiloader autoboot to the installed file, it boots to this wrong file and says "Exception (DSI) Occurred!" with a lot of random text and then proceeds to attempt a reload only to never do so.

The file I installed to Priiloader was Nintendont, but that was wrong as I was supposed to install Nintendont Forwarder.

Now whenever I turn the Wii on it autoboots to Nintendont but then immediately goes to the "Exception (DSI) Occurred!" problem again and again.

My question:

Is there any way to uninstall Nintendont as the installed file in Priiloader?

Do I have to find a Nintendont Forwarder and install that one over the old one?

Any help would be much appreciated. I am now extremely frustrated as it appears as though I broke this Wii and I just bought it recently :(
 

DRGN

Technowizard
Moderator
Premium
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
2,175
Location
Sacramento, CA
You should be able to access Priiloader by holding the Wii's reset button while powering it on. From there you can change the installed file and other options. You can find out what the other options do by reading here.
 

Official Mingo

Smash Rookie
Joined
Sep 27, 2020
Messages
1
Hey guys, I hope this is the right place for this question.

So when I try to play on FoD it looks like this...

the framerate will drop down to like 5 and the giant purple square in the middle of the screen won't go away.

Everything else in the game works fine, just FoD that has the problem. I have tried multiple different isos including a PAL version and it still had the same problem. I even tried reinstalling Dolphin 5.0 (stable version) the issue still persisted.

What can I do!?!

Thanks!
 

cyanate

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 4, 2021
Messages
1

Would this monitor work well with a Wii (using a HDMI adapter) for offline play? I have a CRT TV but it cuts off the top and bottom of the screen, and it's difficult to find one where I live.
 

Yashichi

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Nov 19, 2013
Messages
441
Hey guys, I hope this is the right place for this question.

So when I try to play on FoD it looks like this...

the framerate will drop down to like 5 and the giant purple square in the middle of the screen won't go away.

Everything else in the game works fine, just FoD that has the problem. I have tried multiple different isos including a PAL version and it still had the same problem. I even tried reinstalling Dolphin 5.0 (stable version) the issue still persisted.

What can I do!?!

Thanks!
Dolphin 5.0 is very, very old (like over 4 years old). you should get one of the beta versions that most likely have this fixed, or you can just use Slippi Dolphin and your issue is likely to disappear too

Would this monitor work well with a Wii (using a HDMI adapter) for offline play? I have a CRT TV but it cuts off the top and bottom of the screen, and it's difficult to find one where I live.
yeah that should work just fine. you should see if changing your Wii's aspect ratio from the system settings can fix your problem first though
 

Pr1nceOfNoOne

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
2
I bought a set of the Shadeaux custom stickboxes on Etsy (https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShadeauxCustoms) which have tons of reviews saying they are oem and good quality. I swapped it out for my oem stickbox - “type 1” according to the stickies Q&A, but it seems when I did the soldering I shorted something out because the controller only registered movements left and right initially, barely any vertical detection. I tried removing some of the solder and it changed to only register stick presses to the top right. I checked the connections with a multimeter and they are reading out the same as on my working c stick, so im unsure where the short is. Are there any schematics online detailing the board inputs? What are be the connections I could have shorted? Finally, should I replace my original stick box to check if the part is defective?
 

DRGN

Technowizard
Moderator
Premium
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
2,175
Location
Sacramento, CA
The two electical sensors on the sides of the stickbox are called potentiometers (or "pots" for short). If you don't see solder actually connecting between the pins, then it might be possible that you applied heat for too long and overheated one of the them, which would be permanent damage. If you feel like you need to hold the iron on the connection for a long time before it melts (which is also giving the heat more time to permeate the part), then the iron tip might neet to be cleaned or replaced. However, you should be able to just remove one of the pots from your old stickbox and use it with your new one. (The wear that makes it feel old comes from the mechanical portion of the stickbox, not the pots.) You might not even need to completely remove the whole stickbox soldered to the board, and just unsolder the 3 pins from the bad pot and swap it.

I don't think these will help in your particular case, but since you asked (and because they may be useful to others), here are sanded images of the PCB to show the circuit traces:

Top:
controller traces - top_cr.jpg


Bottom:
controller traces - bottom_cr.jpg
 
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DRGN

Technowizard
Moderator
Premium
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
2,175
Location
Sacramento, CA
Thanks for the info. If the pots have been overheated would that affect the readout on the mulitimeter? Is there any way to check them to find out if they actually overheated before swapping them out as you suggest? Link to image of soldered connects
Sorry for the late reply.

It's hard to tell from the image, but the center pin for the pot on the vertical axis looks like it might not be making much contact to the solder surrounding it; I see a spot of darkness around the pin, and I can't tell if it's a pit around the pin, or if it's just oxidized material left over from soldering. If it's the former, that could explain why you couldn't get much input from up/down movement. You could try removing the solder on that pin, adding new flux (and make sure the tip of the iron is clean), and trying that one again.

You might try some measurements with your multimeter. If you measure the outermost pins on both pots, you should see a resistance of ~4.5 KΩ. If you measure from the center pin to either outer pin, you should see ~8-10 KΩ. The exact values aren't that important, as they'll vary (they may vary even more if you remove the pot from the controller, which is normal, since you're then removing other parts of the circuit from the equation). The most important thing though is that the resistance isn't like an order of magnatude larger or smaller, and isn't an open (not connected) connection. And also that for any pot, the value you get between the center pin and one of the outside pins is about the same as the value between the center pin and the other outside pin.
 

BIG D Was Taken

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
97
Slippi.gg
BIGD#791
I've been thinking about making my own custom controller to skip the waiting time for the smashbox and maybe add some customization for myself.
Which exact conditions do I have to meet for it to be considered legal?
Sorry if this is offtopic, but i couldn't find a more fitting topic to ask this in.

Edit: one specific thing I had in mind was to make a 5th C button that also interrupts the control stick input so that I can nair while moving more optimally
just keep in mind that you shouldn't make it go further than a normal gamecube controller, don't go past what's possible in melee.
 

Cynd3r_x

Smash Rookie
Joined
May 8, 2022
Messages
3
hey so i cant connect my gc adapter to my pc
i wanted to try out slippi after getting a gc adapter for my pc, but nothing is working. ive looked at a ton of guides, and nothing seems to work
if anyone has any advice, heres what im working with and what i've tried

I'm using a mayflash controller adapter (i have tried both the pc and console switch on the physical device)
I've tried using zadig, the main issue i have there is that A. the device isnt recognized as what ive seen it supposed to be recognized as, it's just "Myflash Controller Adapter" and B. the USB ID isnt changing to 057E 0337, its instead 0079 1843 (i have tried moving the USB port around has not changed anything)

If there are any other details needed for someone to help out im happy to provide, cause i really wanna get into melee. Things just arent working out too well :/
 
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