blanketninja
Smash Rookie
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2018
- Messages
- 2
Disclaimer: I don't really know jack **** about controllers and if this will work for everyone, or if everything I'm saying about how Ultimate works with GC triggers is true. I'm just a guy that hates the analog triggers and wants to make them as close to digital as possible.
If there is a better solution that involves actually despringing the controller (like you can in Melee) that doesn't involve soldering or sending it in to someone else please let me know.
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[VIDEO VERSION OF THIS POST]
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Why would you want the Gamecube triggers to be like a Pro Controller?
The biggest reason is that it affects your ability to be precise with the triggers.
To my understanding, Ultimate only reads the "analog" (half-press) input of the Gamecube controller, and the "full" press does absolutely nothing in this game. This means that if you depress the trigger about halfway, the shield (or jump, for those that use triggers for it) will activate. Pressing down on the trigger any more still registers as the same press and most importantly, if you fully depress the trigger, it has to go at least half-way up again before the game starts releasing your shield (or short hop).
I have examples of this in the video posted.
This means that if you're trying to parry or short hop with the triggers, it makes the timing harder since you have to compensate for a little variability in how far you're pushing the triggers (and god forbid you push the trigger entirely in). Even releasing your shield you may be a couple of frames late if you've pushed them in too far. I'm bad at the game and I don't care about being good enough to "finesse" my triggers just ever so softly so they only just actuate, and I just want them to be on or off like the Pro Controller. I used to play with no springs in Melee and it made stuff like wavedashing and powershield much easier, as well as just being easier on my fingers in the long term.
I did a lot of research about this and I couldn't seem to find anything in terms of a solution, just more frustrated people like me. I did find a guide on how to solder the board and people that I could pay to send my controller into to have them modify the board, but I couldn't be bothered to go that route.
Pro Controllers are also ****ing expensive and I just didn't want to try my luck with any of the third party GC controllers that have digital triggers since I've heard about issues with all of them.
-----
So how did I make my controller triggers "digital" like a Pro Controller?
The short of it is that I opened the controller and played around with it to see how the triggers activated in game. There's a little trigger slider that will activate when it's about halfway down. Upon learning this, I then stuffed some paper into the trigger slot so it would stop right when the trigger would register as a press in the game. This greatly reduced the travel time and made the triggers immediately feel better to me.
It's a workaround that is two things: easy to do yourself, and completely reversible so there's honestly little you can do to mess it up.
Steps
1: Open the controller. Nintendo uses these stupid screws that you'll need either a tri-wing screwdriver for, or a flathead and a lot of patience. **** these screws.
2: Locate the "white nubs" on the slider, these activate the triggers when depressed.
3: Plug your controller in, go into training mode, and gently slide one until your shield activates.
4: Cut a strip of paper to stuff in the rest of the slider after the point where it activate. Mine was about 0.6cm tall and 2.7cm long. This does not need to be exact, you're just stuffing paper into the slider so just cut it until it works.
5: Wad it up. Maybe more accurately, I just rolled it up.
6: Stuff it in.
7: Put your shell back on (don't put on the screws yet), and see if the triggers work.
8: bootleg digital triggers master race
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Misc Comments
I tested this for literally two online matches and that's it. I don't know anything about the longevity of this mod or if it will even work for different controllers. I can imagine that the only thing that will go wrong is that if you slam your triggers like a gorilla, the white nubs might break over time since they're taking more weight than usual when you're stopping the trigger early in this mod.
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cool that's it. let me know if it helps or if there's something I could improve in this or a better way to make "digital" triggers in Ultimate.
-----
EDIT: A Better Alternative Method
After some good feedback I decided to retest just putting plugs in the triggers themselves to decrease the travel length and it seems to work perfect as long as it's the right length. It takes a little bit more effort than the method I posted above, but the benefits include very minimal chance to damage anything on your controller (vs maybe doing damage and breaking the white nubs), and having a more solid feel to the "stop". I felt by stuffing the slider it still has a little give when bottoming, while plugging the triggers gives you a more solid stop.
Steps
Locate the triggers and take them out
https://i.imgur.com/6xc2KDT.jpg
Cut a strip of paper 7.6cm~ by 2.5cm~ and roll it up
https://i.imgur.com/bAN5zE3.jpg
"Plug" the trigger with it
https://i.imgur.com/tBS6RDq.jpg
Optional: I don't like the squishy feeling this thing gives when you bottom it out so I took it out
https://i.imgur.com/IdxCkHN.jpg
If there is a better solution that involves actually despringing the controller (like you can in Melee) that doesn't involve soldering or sending it in to someone else please let me know.
-----
[VIDEO VERSION OF THIS POST]
-----
Why would you want the Gamecube triggers to be like a Pro Controller?
The biggest reason is that it affects your ability to be precise with the triggers.
To my understanding, Ultimate only reads the "analog" (half-press) input of the Gamecube controller, and the "full" press does absolutely nothing in this game. This means that if you depress the trigger about halfway, the shield (or jump, for those that use triggers for it) will activate. Pressing down on the trigger any more still registers as the same press and most importantly, if you fully depress the trigger, it has to go at least half-way up again before the game starts releasing your shield (or short hop).
I have examples of this in the video posted.
This means that if you're trying to parry or short hop with the triggers, it makes the timing harder since you have to compensate for a little variability in how far you're pushing the triggers (and god forbid you push the trigger entirely in). Even releasing your shield you may be a couple of frames late if you've pushed them in too far. I'm bad at the game and I don't care about being good enough to "finesse" my triggers just ever so softly so they only just actuate, and I just want them to be on or off like the Pro Controller. I used to play with no springs in Melee and it made stuff like wavedashing and powershield much easier, as well as just being easier on my fingers in the long term.
I did a lot of research about this and I couldn't seem to find anything in terms of a solution, just more frustrated people like me. I did find a guide on how to solder the board and people that I could pay to send my controller into to have them modify the board, but I couldn't be bothered to go that route.
Pro Controllers are also ****ing expensive and I just didn't want to try my luck with any of the third party GC controllers that have digital triggers since I've heard about issues with all of them.
-----
So how did I make my controller triggers "digital" like a Pro Controller?
The short of it is that I opened the controller and played around with it to see how the triggers activated in game. There's a little trigger slider that will activate when it's about halfway down. Upon learning this, I then stuffed some paper into the trigger slot so it would stop right when the trigger would register as a press in the game. This greatly reduced the travel time and made the triggers immediately feel better to me.
It's a workaround that is two things: easy to do yourself, and completely reversible so there's honestly little you can do to mess it up.
Steps
1: Open the controller. Nintendo uses these stupid screws that you'll need either a tri-wing screwdriver for, or a flathead and a lot of patience. **** these screws.
2: Locate the "white nubs" on the slider, these activate the triggers when depressed.
3: Plug your controller in, go into training mode, and gently slide one until your shield activates.
4: Cut a strip of paper to stuff in the rest of the slider after the point where it activate. Mine was about 0.6cm tall and 2.7cm long. This does not need to be exact, you're just stuffing paper into the slider so just cut it until it works.
5: Wad it up. Maybe more accurately, I just rolled it up.
6: Stuff it in.
7: Put your shell back on (don't put on the screws yet), and see if the triggers work.
8: bootleg digital triggers master race
-----
Misc Comments
I tested this for literally two online matches and that's it. I don't know anything about the longevity of this mod or if it will even work for different controllers. I can imagine that the only thing that will go wrong is that if you slam your triggers like a gorilla, the white nubs might break over time since they're taking more weight than usual when you're stopping the trigger early in this mod.
-----
cool that's it. let me know if it helps or if there's something I could improve in this or a better way to make "digital" triggers in Ultimate.
-----
EDIT: A Better Alternative Method
After some good feedback I decided to retest just putting plugs in the triggers themselves to decrease the travel length and it seems to work perfect as long as it's the right length. It takes a little bit more effort than the method I posted above, but the benefits include very minimal chance to damage anything on your controller (vs maybe doing damage and breaking the white nubs), and having a more solid feel to the "stop". I felt by stuffing the slider it still has a little give when bottoming, while plugging the triggers gives you a more solid stop.
Steps
Locate the triggers and take them out
https://i.imgur.com/6xc2KDT.jpg
Cut a strip of paper 7.6cm~ by 2.5cm~ and roll it up
https://i.imgur.com/bAN5zE3.jpg
"Plug" the trigger with it
https://i.imgur.com/tBS6RDq.jpg
Optional: I don't like the squishy feeling this thing gives when you bottom it out so I took it out
https://i.imgur.com/IdxCkHN.jpg
Last edited:
