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MK Custom Control Setups

Do you use default or custom controls?


  • Total voters
    10

9bit

BRoomer
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There are a lot of crazy things that can be done in PM with various button combinations, some of which become much easier with custom controls.

I mentioned recently that I switched the entire D-pad to Special to get the best height out of Tornado. Last night I was toying with the idea of setting Z to Footstool since I didn't have a button for it, and using X for DACUS utilizing some sorta weird hand movement.

After recently reading the thread C-Stick Movement and Crouch Dashing I re-evaluated my control scheme once again. I'm not a fan of clawing, also I am bad at it. So I thought, if I set Z to attack I can use it to DACUS and do all those cool movement tricks while leaving my hand in a comfortable position.

Unfortunately this still leaves me without a Footstool button. I could set either up or down on the D-pad to a taunt, but that's like a bad place for Footstool anyway.

My setup:



"What's up with the 'membranes?'" you might be asking. Well, as most of you know, if you hard-press a shoulder button to L-cancel, it messes with your tech window. So if you get hit out of an attempted L-cancelled aerial, you can't tech the ground (or a wall) for a while after that. But if you light press the L-cancel, you're good to go. I only ever used L for L-cancelling (and sometimes shielding), so I realized I could remove its ability to hard press entirely. It no longer "clicks", it just slides up and down: it's 100% analog, like an XBOX controller trigger.

In contrast, my R button is 100% digital. I removed its ability to slide and it only clicks. This makes wavedashing and things like needle cancelling much easier and more precise, for me at least.

Using the d-pad set to special I'm now getting 95%+ maximum Tornado height (I'm basing this on the maximum height I could get in Debug Mode, hitting B every other frame). Using just B, I was only getting maybe 70% max height on a really great mash (more frequently it was closer to 60%), and to do that I had to use a lot more effort, so much so that I would hurt my shoulder. Now, I find it really easy to get that 95%+ height and can do it consistently.

Since Z is not set to grab, I use up on the control stick to JC grab (tap jump, basically). I know it's probably not ideal, but it works for me. Even immediately out of a dash... I just slam the control stick to the side, then up, then hit X.

- - -

I've asked about other peoples' custom controls in other, more general areas of SmashBoards, but I wanna know what other Meta Knight players specifically are doing. And I'm friggin' obsessed with custom controls apparently. I simply cant' shut up about it.

What do you guys use? And why do you think your setup is advantageous over default and over mine, possibly?
 
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Lawn Chair

Smash Journeyman
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Mar 14, 2013
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321
I make L a taunt so I can footstool people out of their shield. But since they got rid of it, it's only usefully for gimping ****ty recoveries.
 

SpiderMad

Smash Master
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May 6, 2012
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You should go over why you removed your membrane for your L button and stuff again.

And how good is D-pad set to Special for his Tornado? You should do some data testing on how it compares to your BEST B button results or something.

And what's your method for JC grabbing with your scheme? Do you not opt to JC grab with MK?
 
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Lawn Chair

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
321
You should go over why you removed your membrane for your L button and stuff again.

And how good is D-pad set to Special for his Tornado? You should do some data testing on how it compares to your BEST B button results or something.

And what's your method for JC grabbing with your scheme? Do you not opt to JC grab with MK?
I don't shield or wavedash with L so it essentially and useless button for me.

I would guess B.

X and Z JC grabbing is 99% of the time the best option.
 
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9bit

BRoomer
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You should go over why you removed your membrane for your L button and stuff again.

And how good is D-pad set to Special for his Tornado? You should do some data testing on how it compares to your BEST B button results or something.

And what's your method for JC grabbing with your scheme? Do you not opt to JC grab with MK?
Totes! I'll put some of this in the OP, too.

On membranes: As most of you know, if you hard-press a shoulder button to L-cancel, it messes with your tech window. So if you get hit out of an attempted L-cancelled aerial, you can't tech the ground (or a wall) for a while after that. But if you light press the L-cancel, you're good to go. I only ever used L for L-cancelling (and sometimes shielding), so I realized I could remove its ability to hard press entirely. It no longer "clicks", it just slides up and down: it's 100% analog, like an XBOX controller trigger.

In contrast, my R button is 100% digital. I removed its ability to slide and it only clicks. This makes wavedashing and things like needle cancelling much easier and more precise, for me at least.

On D-pad: Using the d-pad set to special I'm getting 95%+ maximum Tornado height (I'm basing this on the maximum height I could get in Debug Mode, hitting B every other frame). Using just B, I was only getting maybe 70% max height on a really great mash, and to do that I had to use a lot more effort, so much so that I would hurt my shoulder. Now, I find it really easy to get that 95%+ height and can do it consistently.

On JC grabbing: I use up on the control stick (tap jump, basically). I know it's probably not ideal, but it works for me. Even immediately out of a dash... I just slam the control stick to the side, then up, then hit X.
 

SpiderMad

Smash Master
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May 6, 2012
Messages
4,968
Totes! I'll put some of this in the OP, too.

On membranes: As most of you know, if you hard-press a shoulder button to L-cancel, it messes with your tech window. So if you get hit out of an attempted L-cancelled aerial, you can't tech the ground (or a wall) for a while after that. But if you light press the L-cancel, you're good to go. I only ever used L for L-cancelling (and sometimes shielding), so I realized I could remove its ability to hard press entirely. It no longer "clicks", it just slides up and down: it's 100% analog, like an XBOX controller trigger.

In contrast, my R button is 100% digital. I removed its ability to slide and it only clicks. This makes wavedashing and things like needle cancelling much easier and more precise, for me at least.

On D-pad: Using the d-pad set to special I'm getting 95%+ maximum Tornado height (I'm basing this on the maximum height I could get in Debug Mode, hitting B every other frame). Using just B, I was only getting maybe 70% max height on a really great mash, and to do that I had to use a lot more effort, so much so that I would hurt my shoulder. Now, I find it really easy to get that 95%+ height and can do it consistently.

On JC grabbing: I use up on the control stick (tap jump, basically). I know it's probably not ideal, but it works for me. Even immediately out of a dash... I just slam the control stick to the side, then up, then hit X.
I found out what I was guessing that the Wifi set doesn't have the Button diferentiation code added (because it desyncs replays/wifi @standardtoaster ?) which was making it not do much and switched the codeset. D-pad special is super good.
The method I'm guessing you use as do I would be, left thumb clockwise circular D-pad motion, right thumb moves across and controls control stick.

Also weird how the Button differentation code being in doesn't kill C-dashing/C-moonwalking.

Does anybody know of a cheap PSI/force gauge or something to be used to measure the resistance to push down the spring, as well as press in the hard click?
 
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9bit

BRoomer
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I found out what I was guessing that the Wifi set doesn't have the Button diferentiation code added (because it desyncs replays/wifi @standardtoaster ?) which was making it not do much and switched the codeset. D-pad special is super good.
The method I'm guessing you use as do I would be, left thumb clockwise circular D-pad motion, right thumb moves across and controls control stick.
I actually use my right thumb for the d-pad and keep my left on the stick. I rock the d-pad from down/left to up/right repeatedly.

Might be because I'm bad but that's the way I've been getting the most height out of it.
 

SpiderMad

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I actually use my right thumb for the d-pad and keep my left on the stick. I rock the d-pad from down/left to up/right repeatedly.

Might be because I'm bad but that's the way I've been getting the most height out of it.
How shall we compare our heights in a trial of 3 in a row or something?
 
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9bit

BRoomer
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How shall we compare our heights in a trial of 3 in a row or something?
If I do it well, I can get the top of MK's head a little bit above the top of the horizontal white line of boxes on the back wall in training mode, give or take.

MK standing directly in the center of the double purple blocks on the floor, in Training Mode with the Sandbag hit away and the 2nd character having not moved (for camera consistency).

I'm uploading a video right now. Taking forever to process.

Edit


lol I wanted to taunt at the end but then I remembered I got nothin' set to taunt!
 
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Chesstiger2612

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@ 9bit 9bit
Your tornado is definitely higher than mine, I should consider D-pad as special.
I also have R mapped to attack and I claw with the right hand, so using the right thumb in the case of a tornado recovery could work as I don't need the C-stick there.
Also, I TASed it and your 3rd tornado from the video reached >95% of the maximum height possible with perfect input. Good job.
 
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Chesstiger2612

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You shouldn't "consider" it, anyone not doing it for MK/Mario/Luigi is asanine
You are right, but I play random character pretty often and for some characters I might need taunt. But I use X for footstool and set side taunt/footstool to X, then I can cover the Samus case. Are there any other cases where taunts are really useful?
 

SpiderMad

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You are right, but I play random character pretty often and for some characters I might need taunt. But I use X for footstool and set side taunt/footstool to X, then I can cover the Samus case. Are there any other cases where taunts are really useful?
If you're gonna play MK/Mario/Luigi; you go to the custom control screen and set it so you can get your 30%+ more than average humanly possible height. If you're gonna be switching characters you can just take the tag off (or make a 2nd one with some whatever extra symbol or variation). Samus should be the only one, and you already got X for it.

An unused trigger set to Special also seems to be decent aid for someone who didn't want to do the taunt method. I've also read of D-pad(s) set to Special for easier powershields (For the Fullset..because hard press sucks. Wifi set light press everything all the way
:GCLT:
:GCRT: ) http://www.reddit.com/r/SSBPM/comments/2d73h0/just_powershield_it_an_easier_way/cjmy971


@ 9bit 9bit you should take video of your hands
 
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9bit

BRoomer
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An unused trigger set to Special also seems to be decent aid for someone who didn't want to do the taunt method. I've also read of D-pad(s) set to Special for easier powershields (For the Fullset..because hard press sucks. Wifi set light press everything all the way
:GCLT:
:GCRT: ) http://www.reddit.com/r/SSBPM/comments/2d73h0/just_powershield_it_an_easier_way/cjmy971


@ 9bit 9bit you should take video of your hands
One of the reasons I love springless R trigger to much; instantly increased my power shielding %. Now if only they'd implement light press air-dodge I'd be able to wavedash OOS using either shoulder button.

I'll try and get some footage of my hand. Might not look great. I'll have to use my webcam.
 

SSB|Sylar

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How exactly did you change your shoulder buttons to analog and digital? I've poked around for a tutorial but haven't been able to find any :(
 

9bit

BRoomer
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How exactly did you change your shoulder buttons to analog and digital? I've poked around for a tutorial but haven't been able to find any :(
You'll need a small tri-wing screwdriver to be able to open the controller up, then a small phillips head screwdriver once you're inside, to remove the plastic coverings that help keep the shoulder buttons in place.

The method I used was: remove both shoulder buttons completely from the controller. For one of them, remove the little rubber pad (this will make that shoulder button completely analog). For the other, remove the spring (this will make the shoulder button completely digital [if you stop here, this shoulder button will be lower than the other and you'll have to make sure you line up the little hole on the shoulder button with the slider on the back of the controller's motherboard]).

One additional thing I did was add some plastic to the inside of my R button's bigger cylinder so it would be at the same height as the L button when at rest. To do this I took a shoulder button from a 3rd party controller that I wasn't using and cut off a chunk of its smaller cylinder and put it inside my good R button's larger cylinder, between the actual R trigger and the rubber pad.

Not sure if any of that makes any sense without pictures if you haven't taken apart a Gamecube controller before...
 

SSB|Sylar

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I've taken apart a controller before, but I've never removed the shoulder buttons. In any case, what did you use to cut off part of the smaller cylinder?
 

9bit

BRoomer
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I've taken apart a controller before, but I've never removed the shoulder buttons. In any case, what did you use to cut off part of the smaller cylinder?
I heated up an X-Acto knife with a lighter for about 20 - 30 seconds and it sliced through like butter. You want the length to be about 0.5 cm. File off any rough bits to smooth it out.
 

SpiderMad

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I heated up an X-Acto knife with a lighter for about 20 - 30 seconds and it sliced through like butter. You want the length to be about 0.5 cm. File off any rough bits to smooth it out.
Have you theorized adequate alternative spacers that wouldn't require acquiring a controller?
 
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9bit

BRoomer
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Have you theorized adequate alternative spacers that wouldn't require acquiring a controller?
I tried a few different things but none of them have had the same satisfying "click" that you get from the real deal.

A ball bearing of the right size might work, but I haven't been able to test it.
 

SpiderMad

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I'm not sure what kind of results you got with the alternatives then if they worked but didn't give you the same feel. The click not only may feel good but if they also made it wonky that'd be less accurate to use. On the other hand though I like the click weak to the point where you almost don't feel it at all: but the bad thing is then I think it only has a matter of time until it becomes completely intangible.

Mine (my hard press one) right now lost its tangible hard press a long time ago, all through no modification but being a controller used since release day or something. I just wish it had a super small spacer to push the hard press a tiny bit upward, and a small remnant of a click left.

And it once in a while has a problem with not releasing the lightest of analog, causing me to light shied permanently in Melee till I full press it to get it to release. It's also super sensitive on analog more than the other shoulder, the littlest of pressure can trigger light shield sooner than the other. Not sure why either of these things are the way they are, and if they're related (they most likely are).

And if you haven't seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__pq58gnJbM
 
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