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The NEW Guide To Spray Painting Your Gamecube Controller

Reckoner

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
9
Location
Southeast
Round 2 went much more smoothly than the first attempt. I used Fusion for Plastics to apply the blue coat, which required no sanding or primer. I used painters tape to do the red and black parts. I didnt paint any buttons this time. Its still drying. http://imgur.com/a/X8SpR
 

Bose

Den lengste kølla
Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Messages
37
Location
Norway
3DS FC
5086-2001-6359
Wow, it looks _way_ better now dude! It looks much more professional, and I have to admit actually being more positive to use the site and buy anything at all :p
Consider matching the color of the header text with the rest of the text. The main text color looks very good with the background.

How much would that be, you think? I live in Norway.
 

Reckoner

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
9
Location
Southeast
Finished product: http://imgur.com/a/vwzVd. My camera has serious problems with the color red so I tried 2 different white balance settings. Very happy with this one, with the next one I'm going to paint my school colors. I think I'm addicted
 

Reckoner

Smash Rookie
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
9
Location
Southeast
I also have a question about sanding. This is what my old controller looked like after I sanded and before I painted it http://imgur.com/thw30zi. The purple spots on the back were slightly visible through the paint, what can I do to improve my sanding job? I used 600
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
bro, you DONT need to sand it that much.

Here is what you need to do to make sure you promote good adhesion on a controller (note : the oil part is the MOST important)

1. Use 400-1000 grit to LIGHTLY sand the controller just to knock of the finish and smoothen the shell (takes 5 min at the most)
2. Wash the controller like a mofo (leave it to soak for a little bit too) with a dishwashing soap or dawn soap to get ALL of the grease off.
Note : Make sure your hands are VERY clean from this point forward, or wear gloves.
3. Lightly dab a LINT FREE cloth with Mineral Spirits, lacquer thinner, or rubbing alcohol, and rub the whole controller down lightly. It will discolor a little bit, that is ok.
4. Use an adhesion promoter in ALL cases when you do not use the krylon fusion paint or a plastic dye (duplicator's vinyl and plastic dye)
5. Now, you can paint (finally...) :glare:
 

Yeroc

Theory Coder
BRoomer
Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Messages
3,273
Location
In a world of my own devising
I used a 16K resistor as the current limiter on the +5V supply (the yellow wire). I used the resistor lead and another piece of a lead from another component as a bare bus end connections for the LED network, and inserted them directly into the header connector, so they were touching the pins that the wires are connected to (the other end goes to ground, which is the black wire). The resistor is in series with a parallel network of LEDs, which is 10 diodes in 5 dual-color packages.

Edit: Here's a crude circuit diagram:

.._____/\/\/\/\________________________
..|..........16K..............................|.....|.....|
(5V).........................................V....V....V ...
..|__________________________|___|___|
 

Smur

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
156
Location
Statesboro, GA
3DS FC
4141-3292-3562
So I just wanna make sure I have the right things:

Would this be the first layer or is this the wrong product? It says "FOR USE ON BARE METAL, PREVIOUSLY PAINTED OR SOUND RUSTED SURFACES"

Now the 2nd layer, a metallic color spray paint (or would this be the 2nd? Idk)

And then would that last layer be this?

EDIT: Ok, ya got me...I don't even know how to forum
 

Bubbleman_Nsider

Smash Ace
Joined
Jan 21, 2006
Messages
700
Location
Onett, Puerto Rico
NNID
Bubbleman
3DS FC
1075-0749-7452
Apparently, Rust-O-Leum is pretty bad for clear, or so I've read. However, that Krylon can should be perfect.

Got my controller ready, after 3 weeks of trial and error. I'm still unsure if I should get something for the center, I'm thiking of a Mega Man face decal. Anyways, here it is.

http://tidalnotes.tumblr.com/post/56834852471/my-gamecube-controller-mod-mega-man-themed

I have additional pics in my Facebook account, I'll leave a link or two here too.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1010399_10153060870575433_710085571_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972302_10153060872385433_1185452341_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1001676_10153060868410433_1921985098_n.jpg
 

Smur

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
156
Location
Statesboro, GA
3DS FC
4141-3292-3562
Apparently, Rust-O-Leum is pretty bad for clear, or so I've read. However, that Krylon can should be perfect.

I'm just interested in doing the buttons for my controller for now, but you're saying both cans on Rustoleum are a bad choice? Is the first can even the right thing?
 

Smur

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
156
Location
Statesboro, GA
3DS FC
4141-3292-3562
There has not been a way discovered that results in long lasting buttons. Don't paint them YET.

I feel bad for attempting to do this on my own because your work is amazing and I'd love to buy one, but I'm about to start college with no job and the struggle is real, lol. That, and I'm not completely sure on my controller of choice for SSB4 :]
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
Im working on figuring out this dilemma. Please stay patient. I will try using liquid dye in a pot.

Has any1 else tried use RIT dye before I experiment myself?
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
Paint is not resistant to friction. Krylon does not work. Rustoleum does not work. Duplicolor vinyl dye that "sinks into the plastic" does not work. Sanding is practically useless since the buttons move their sockets, if you notice, they will still rub against the sides and cause friction, therefore stripping paint. Also, whenever you use your nail to hit a button, you chip paint (start button). The paint will chip within a few days, weeks, or months, if you are very lucky.

There must be a way to physically stain the plastic material. The fact that I have about 6 sets of buttons laying around all chipped up makes me want to throw s***, especially when I have a bad day. You have to strip the paint and repaint only to receive the same inevitable effect.

As you may tell, I have not had the best of days, but I hope you guys can save yourselves some frustration and NEVER PAINT YOUR BUTTONS. Until myself or someone else figures this bs out.
 

MASTER_VOID

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Messages
281
Location
Houston, Tx
I used a 16K resistor as the current limiter on the +5V supply (the yellow wire). I used the resistor lead and another piece of a lead from another component as a bare bus end connections for the LED network, and inserted them directly into the header connector, so they were touching the pins that the wires are connected to (the other end goes to ground, which is the black wire). The resistor is in series with a parallel network of LEDs, which is 10 diodes in 5 dual-color packages.

Edit: Here's a crude circuit diagram:

.._____/\/\/\/\________________________
..|..........16K..............................|.....|.....|
(5V).........................................V....V....V ...
..|__________________________|___|___|
Thanks for the help Yeroc! Could you point me to where you buy your Led's from?
Cannot wait to try this myself :)
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
Yo, sorta random post, but if anyone is interested in seeing all of the color variations of GameCube Controllers, go here : http://s9.zetaboards.com/Nintendo_64_Forever/topic/7197954/1/

Also, there is NO way to paint your buttons that will LAST unless you have a gun or brush and mix high quality hardeners and clear to spray. Trust me, I have practically set myself on fire in effort to make these things a dif color, its simply impossible without a gun/brush
 

Rusty Shacklefurd

Smash Lord
Joined
Mar 23, 2006
Messages
1,563
Location
South-east of New Zealand, and no, you'll never fi
I used a 16K resistor as the current limiter on the +5V supply (the yellow wire). I used the resistor lead and another piece of a lead from another component as a bare bus end connections for the LED network, and inserted them directly into the header connector, so they were touching the pins that the wires are connected to (the other end goes to ground, which is the black wire). The resistor is in series with a parallel network of LEDs, which is 10 diodes in 5 dual-color packages.

Edit: Here's a crude circuit diagram:

.._____/\/\/\/\________________________
..|..........16K..............................|.....|.....|
(5V).........................................V....V....V ...
..|__________________________|___|___|
I just have to be a d*** and point out that parrelleling diodes without providing individual current limiters is not particularly good practice as there can be balancing issues and if any single diode fails, the rest may be over loaded. In this particular instance, it's probably mostly fine, but gosh darn does it ever irk me to see it done that way. IN SUMMARY: Either each diode should have its own resistor in series to regulate the current OR some diodes could be placed in series with each other, but then you have to worry about adding up all the diode voltage drops and you're only working with a 5 volt supply and OH DEAR GOD I'M RAMBLING ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND SHOULD STOP NOW!
 

Yeroc

Theory Coder
BRoomer
Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Messages
3,273
Location
In a world of my own devising
I just have to be a d*** and point out that parrelleling diodes without providing individual current limiters is not particularly good practice as there can be balancing issues and if any single diode fails, the rest may be over loaded. In this particular instance, it's probably mostly fine, but gosh darn does it ever irk me to see it done that way. IN SUMMARY: Either each diode should have its own resistor in series to regulate the current OR some diodes could be placed in series with each other, but then you have to worry about adding up all the diode voltage drops and you're only working with a 5 volt supply and OH DEAR GOD I'M RAMBLING ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND SHOULD STOP NOW!
According to the spec sheets, the current draw on the whole branch is something like .09mA, which gets distributed 10 ways by the time it reaches the diodes. Plus trying to cram 10 1k resistors in the controller is an exercise I would prefer to avoid. Poor practice in theory, probably, but even if a few diodes were to fail, the current isn't likely to get high enough to overload the rest of the circuit.

Besides, I'm an engineer. If it works, it works. And if it doesn't work but it doesn't cost anyone time, money, or worse, then it doesn't matter. :)
 

Sarah D.

Smash Rookie
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1
Hi guys! I'm not a Brawl fan but I recently discover this thread while trying to find a guide about NGC controller painting. Thanks a lot for this it really helped me!

My first home-made painted controller is currently drying but here are some shots (sorry for the bad quality I took them with Instagram)


I'm doing a green and yellow Zelda themed controller (green for overall body and yellow for Triforce symbol). I actually applied a first layer of yellow paint on the area above the start button, then let it dry for some hours and put a Triforce-shaped piece of tape to protect it, so I could apply the layer of green paint.

Next is clear-coat, then it'll be settled. Can't wait to see how it looks!

One more time, thanks a lot :)
 

Bobwithlobsters

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
421
Location
Oakdale MN
Just a warning to fellow painters, be careful with textured paint. I used some pink textured spay paint that had a sort of cement texture and it resulted in some sticky buttons. Make sure to clean the button spots if using this type of paint.
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
Any sort of glitter/textured paint should be used sparingly to avoid getting to much of it in the button holes, and having ^ happen..

Also, it may be a good idea to refer to the can for the proper sealant, as speciality paints tend to require some sort of sealant if you want it to last.
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
It doesn't adhere to the plastic buttons, even with acetone.

I didn't try it on controllers. I guess it works on xbox controllers, but those shells are much more porous.
 

GCS Gaming Customs

https://gcsgamingcustoms.storenvy.com
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
718
Location
Mooresville, NC
I was speaking generally for anyone viewing who might needa buy some parts for their controller to put in after they paint it. Like a new stick ^
 
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