felipe_9595
Smash Lord
So, you want to play with a keyboard in the N64 but you dont have 200 bucks to spent on the adaptor??? I have a 40 bucks solution for you.
Materials:
-Raphnet GC to N64 Adapter ($30)
- 10-14 Buttons (5$. Upgrade: Arcade Buttons)
- A GC Controller (We only need the board, so a cheap one will do it, $5)
- UTP Cable (2 meters should be enough)
- A Soldering Iron and minimal soldering skills
- A triwing Screwdriver
- A Shoe Box (Upgrade: Arcade Stick Case)
- Silicon bars or Liquid Silicon (To isolate the soldering and the buttons to the box)
Pros:
+-Incredible Cheap
-No Delay
Cons:
+- Incredible Cheap
- Build quality is poor (Without an Arcade Stick Case)
Lets get Started:
Take apart the Gamecube Controller using the triwing. We are going to focus on the board so we can throw away the case and the rest of the insides. Take the UTP cable and take it apart. You will see 8 trenzated coloured cables. This are the ones we will use for soldering (Cheaper that buying special cables, after all we only need the copper lol). Cut the cable into segments of your desired length and with a knife or your teeth peel away the plastic to reveal the copper. We are going to solder this cables to the board:
After soldering the cables to the board, we are going to solder those to our buttons. One of the cables is the signal and one is the ground, it doesnt matter were we solder those in our buttons as long as they dont touch each other. Put the controller board into the box and cut a hole to pass the cable. Put the buttons in your shoe box in the position you most like, and then secure them with the silicon. And that's it!! To configure the mappings, go to http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_to_n64/index_en.php#2 and map the buttons accordingly.
As a personal reccomendation, i soldered my movement buttons to Dpad Down, left, and Right and soldered my Up Button to the L trigger, because when you press left and right at the same time while holding up in a GC Dpad, the up input retriggers itselfs, resulting in failed pivots utilt, etc.
Results
(Really really ghetto looking, but it works perfectly):
If you have any questions, leave them below!!
Materials:
-Raphnet GC to N64 Adapter ($30)
- 10-14 Buttons (5$. Upgrade: Arcade Buttons)
- A GC Controller (We only need the board, so a cheap one will do it, $5)
- UTP Cable (2 meters should be enough)
- A Soldering Iron and minimal soldering skills
- A triwing Screwdriver
- A Shoe Box (Upgrade: Arcade Stick Case)
- Silicon bars or Liquid Silicon (To isolate the soldering and the buttons to the box)
Pros:
+-Incredible Cheap
-No Delay
Cons:
+- Incredible Cheap
- Build quality is poor (Without an Arcade Stick Case)
Lets get Started:
Take apart the Gamecube Controller using the triwing. We are going to focus on the board so we can throw away the case and the rest of the insides. Take the UTP cable and take it apart. You will see 8 trenzated coloured cables. This are the ones we will use for soldering (Cheaper that buying special cables, after all we only need the copper lol). Cut the cable into segments of your desired length and with a knife or your teeth peel away the plastic to reveal the copper. We are going to solder this cables to the board:
After soldering the cables to the board, we are going to solder those to our buttons. One of the cables is the signal and one is the ground, it doesnt matter were we solder those in our buttons as long as they dont touch each other. Put the controller board into the box and cut a hole to pass the cable. Put the buttons in your shoe box in the position you most like, and then secure them with the silicon. And that's it!! To configure the mappings, go to http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_to_n64/index_en.php#2 and map the buttons accordingly.
As a personal reccomendation, i soldered my movement buttons to Dpad Down, left, and Right and soldered my Up Button to the L trigger, because when you press left and right at the same time while holding up in a GC Dpad, the up input retriggers itselfs, resulting in failed pivots utilt, etc.
Results
(Really really ghetto looking, but it works perfectly):
If you have any questions, leave them below!!
Last edited: