“UP/DOWN ZONING” YOUR LOOSE ZONE FOR SIMPLER SHIELD DROPPING

[Z_A_X_O]

((HAS HAD LIMITED TESTING, PLEASE HELP ME TEST THIS BY TELLING ME YOUR RESULTS))

Here’s the setup:

~Go to any game mode that allows you to access the pause screen

~Unplug your controller

Note: you don’t have to use the pause screen, but it helps visually confirm the setup

For the shield angling method:

~While plugging the controller back in, push/hold the stick in the highest middle position of the loose zone of your controller (varies per controller)

~It will need some adjusting until the satisfied effect (since every controller is unique)

~Keep adjusting until the camera moves downward by ever so slightly pressing the joystick down (or until the joystick in the bottom left of the pause screen only moves 1 pixel downward until the camera responds)

For the Axe method:

~While plugging the controller back in, push/hold the stick in the lowest middle position of the loose zone of your controller (varies per controller)

~Keep adjusting until the camera moves upward by ever so slightly pressing the joystick up (or until the joystick in the bottom left of the pause screen only moves 1 pixel upward until the camera responds)

Values required for shield drop through Axe’s method:

-0.6625, -0.6750, and -0.6875

~You can check these values in 20XX 4.05 by going to EXTRAS and then LIVE ANALOG CONTROLLER INPUTS

Why I believe this is works:

~It moves the loose zone higher/lower, making the default position of the stick much closer to the shield drop angles, meaning more consistent or even faster shield dropping

Why call it “UP/DOWN ZONING”?

~You are moving the default position of the “loose zone” either upwards or downwards (and because it sounded kool and technical)

Have any questions/theories/opinions? I'd love to hear them.

 

[Kadano]

Nice that you bring this up. There has not been much talk about loose zone preset calibration and hold-preset calibration since Magus first mentioned them here a year ago.

I strongly disagree with using the term "dead zone" to what Magus described as "wiggle room". "Dead zone" is already used for the in-game software threshold for directions (|x|/|y| < 0.2875), so using the same term for these different things only leads to confusion.
I introduced the term "loose zone" for the wiggle room here, and I'd be glad if we could agree on this term, since it is descriptive and precisely defined.

Loose zone preset calibration (pushing the stick in one direction, slowly releasing it and then plugging it in, while the thumb is not touching the stick knob) can help as long as there is a loose zone position that will calibrate both SE and SW to y = [-0.6625 ; 0.6875]. That is not always the case, though – most new controllers have at least one side at -0.7 or lower even with the lowest loose zone position, and their loose zone is often only one or two values.

The hold-preset calibration you describe has the drawback that it is difficult to always press with exactly the same strength while plugging in. So the process of calibration will take much longer than on a controller with notches that can be loose-zone-calibrated to shield drop on both sides. For long-term use, I'd recommend to adjust the physical notches so that LZ preset calibration is sufficient, but for short-term situations, I think hold-preset can be helpful if you rely on shield dropping a lot.

On a controller for which hold-preset calibration is necessary, you'll shift the position of the other notches too of course, so at the E / W notches, you will read considerably off-center y values, which will make your analog input strength (dash speed, aerial drift) weaker, which usually amounts to <5% or so. Also, the physical positions of Firefox angles etc. will be different than on a normal center calibrated controller.

 

[Z_A_X_O]

truthfully, I dont ever delve into forums and things. i only know what ive heard by ear in the community.

is my post just a repeat of his? also, in what context should i change "dead zone"?

edit: ah, i see what you're saying now.

yeah, it definitely would mess with angles and etc. i wonder if you could do anything about it.

also, most of these things are controller dependent. its too bad.