Acryte
Smash Ace
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2005
- Messages
- 986
So I don't know why but the last few days I've really wanted to mess around with making a melee fight stick. I know nowadays there are wii fightsticks that are backwards compatible with GCN games. To be honest I love using the GCN controller, probably more than I would a fight stick anyways... but nevertheless I kinda want one just for messing about.
Not sure what it will entail... there are websites and the like that will make you custom fight sticks, though most of these are fairly simple. Idk if they want to go through the hassle of devising a couple simple circuits for mine, though I could do that myself. As long as they make the overall design and stuff it I could just add in that functionality I guess. I've never actually picked up a project quite like this, aka electronics mods, though I know a lot about electronics and have the soldering stations, multimeters, oscilloscopes, and all the other **** I'd ever need at my disposal.
Spent today in photoshop making a 3d model of it (I never use 3d in photoshop so I kinda got stuck in a bad place). I have the clean model without keys or anything with glossy reflections and all that sexiness (can upload if anyone wanted to check it out) as well as the finished design.
NOTES:
Melee Fightstick designed by Acryte.
-Button layout designed around advanced techniques (Mainly Spacies).
-General button configuration:
Wavedash: X, L + Direction ...
Waveshine: Down-B, X, L + Direction, ...
WaveShielding: R (pinky to light/hard shield), X, L + Direction, ...
Drillshine: Down-B, X, L + Direction, (optional dash), Y, C-Down, FF, L (thumb)
Shine Grab: X, (Control Stick Up), Z
Multishine: Down-B, Y or Down-B, X
SHDL: X, B,B or Y,B,B option if finger motion for X,B,B doesn’t feel as natural.
Shine Upsmash: Down-B, (Control Stick Up), A or C-up ... etc. works with X or Y and A or C-up
Directional buttons for taunt lols and samus extender.
L/R are taller buttons (analog).
EX BUTTON - triggers an analog limiter circuit that caps joystick at a maximum tilt percentage and serves 4 functions:
If B is also being pressed, it caps at tilt % required for Turnaround Up-B’s (ie Zelda, etc) and Double-Upwards Up-B (Pika)
If L/R is also being pressed it caps tilt % at a specific value to allow for shielddrops without spotdodging.
If L/R/B is not being pressed and EX BUTTON is pressed it caps tilt sensitivity at a low enough value to ensure attacks with A will be tilts and not smashes.
If L/R/B is not being pressed and EX BUTTON is pressed it caps tilt sensitivity at a low enough value to ensure Control stick Down will not initiate fast-fall.
This configuration of buttons is the best layout I can imagine. I tried various layouts including some mentioned in a recent thread. This one allows for all techs without feeling strange or having to shift your hand around often. It can generally be anchored in one or two positions.
[Parts List]
xxx = Purchased
xxx = Not Purchased
$59 Ultimarc 360 Analog Joystick - http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html
$75 15 Sanwa pushbuttons. If obtained at 2.75 instead of 5.00 then about half that.
$10 L/R Analog pushbuttons - Button Mechanisms cannibalized from GCN controller (inserted into a deeper, taller button w/ nice concave top). Get buttons custom made or self-procure them.
$150 Out of the air estimate for case and graphics (unless we built the case instead which would just be parts cost and decal aka much cheaper).
$190 Pocket Oscilloscope.
$100 Fluke Multimeter
$23 Arduino Board for EX button functionality.
$24 GCN Controller to cannibalize, and 4 resistors for the C-buttons.
Not sure what it will entail... there are websites and the like that will make you custom fight sticks, though most of these are fairly simple. Idk if they want to go through the hassle of devising a couple simple circuits for mine, though I could do that myself. As long as they make the overall design and stuff it I could just add in that functionality I guess. I've never actually picked up a project quite like this, aka electronics mods, though I know a lot about electronics and have the soldering stations, multimeters, oscilloscopes, and all the other **** I'd ever need at my disposal.
Spent today in photoshop making a 3d model of it (I never use 3d in photoshop so I kinda got stuck in a bad place). I have the clean model without keys or anything with glossy reflections and all that sexiness (can upload if anyone wanted to check it out) as well as the finished design.
NOTES:
Melee Fightstick designed by Acryte.
-Button layout designed around advanced techniques (Mainly Spacies).
-General button configuration:
Wavedash: X, L + Direction ...
Waveshine: Down-B, X, L + Direction, ...
WaveShielding: R (pinky to light/hard shield), X, L + Direction, ...
Drillshine: Down-B, X, L + Direction, (optional dash), Y, C-Down, FF, L (thumb)
Shine Grab: X, (Control Stick Up), Z
Multishine: Down-B, Y or Down-B, X
SHDL: X, B,B or Y,B,B option if finger motion for X,B,B doesn’t feel as natural.
Shine Upsmash: Down-B, (Control Stick Up), A or C-up ... etc. works with X or Y and A or C-up
Directional buttons for taunt lols and samus extender.
L/R are taller buttons (analog).
EX BUTTON - triggers an analog limiter circuit that caps joystick at a maximum tilt percentage and serves 4 functions:
If B is also being pressed, it caps at tilt % required for Turnaround Up-B’s (ie Zelda, etc) and Double-Upwards Up-B (Pika)
If L/R is also being pressed it caps tilt % at a specific value to allow for shielddrops without spotdodging.
If L/R/B is not being pressed and EX BUTTON is pressed it caps tilt sensitivity at a low enough value to ensure attacks with A will be tilts and not smashes.
If L/R/B is not being pressed and EX BUTTON is pressed it caps tilt sensitivity at a low enough value to ensure Control stick Down will not initiate fast-fall.
This configuration of buttons is the best layout I can imagine. I tried various layouts including some mentioned in a recent thread. This one allows for all techs without feeling strange or having to shift your hand around often. It can generally be anchored in one or two positions.
[Parts List]
xxx = Purchased
xxx = Not Purchased
$59 Ultimarc 360 Analog Joystick - http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html
$75 15 Sanwa pushbuttons. If obtained at 2.75 instead of 5.00 then about half that.
$10 L/R Analog pushbuttons - Button Mechanisms cannibalized from GCN controller (inserted into a deeper, taller button w/ nice concave top). Get buttons custom made or self-procure them.
$150 Out of the air estimate for case and graphics (unless we built the case instead which would just be parts cost and decal aka much cheaper).
$190 Pocket Oscilloscope.
$100 Fluke Multimeter
$23 Arduino Board for EX button functionality.
$24 GCN Controller to cannibalize, and 4 resistors for the C-buttons.